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2008 arctic cat M8 hood melting on SLP pipe set up

my hood has recently been melting on my SLP pipe along the front of the pipe i tried shaving the rubber block that the pipe rests on about an eighth of an inch and that stopped the melting and rubbing on the top part of the pipe but it is now rubbing and melting at the front of the pipe along the curve to the Y pipe just wondering if some one has some easy solutions or ideas to stop the melting/rubbing of the hood on the pipe
 
This may seem weird but I do know some people were putting the y-pipe on upside down causing about a 1/2 inch lift of the pipe into the hood. Also, as the instructions indicate, did you cut the hood tab and heat tap as required?
 
I had the same problem with the pipe rubbing on the air intake part of the hood. I did the same and cut the rubber bumper down about 1/4 - 1/2 inch and added heat tape to the intake. Plenty of clearance now and the pipe and Y still fit well.

I did cut the tabs and added extra heat tape where the pipe bends from the Y.

I also added some foam rubber into the "ears" of hood which lay on the side panel when the hood is closed just for another 1/4 inch or so clearance.
 
SLP Pipe set install on M8

I just installed the SLP single pipe set on my sled today. The Y pipe cannot be bolted on upside down because the bolt pattern on the upper studs and lower are not the same. The holes will only line up one way.
 
Are you guys running a control box with the full slp setup? i am looking at a m8 with a setup on it and no box any issues?

Have the slp on my 08 M8 No control box. Not needed with the M8. Runs great....

Just a note on this, you can run it with out the box but I would be careful. The pipe setup alone maybe okay but if you alter the intake at all you maybe in trouble. I'm running the slp setup with a BDX black boxx. I have an A/F gauge on the sled as well. Yesterday the sled wouldn't restart after it layed on it's side for awhile so I thought my Boondocker box might be the issue. I disconnected the box and eventually got the sled restarted. I ran without the BD box for awhile and saw some pretty scary numbers on the A/F gauge. It was fine at certain RPM's running in the 12's and once or twice I saw 11's but also consistently had numbers in the high 14's and 15's around 4500-6000 RPM's. I was riding around 9000-9500'. If you're going to run the pipe without a control box or anything to monitor EGT's or A/F ratio I would at least pull the plugs or check the wash regularly for the first couple hundred miles. Just my observations and opinion.
 
After my first ride with the dealer installed SLP pipe and air kit for my M8 I had the same melting issues as well as a bog at the start of the throttle. I wasn't totally impressed with power gain either. What to do now, turbo?
 
and yet another melted hood ! lots of trimming and heat taping but still some rubbing.
I think the team at SLP missed the mark only slightly.
great horsepower gain and no box required for my kids '08 M8.
 
timbersled intake?

I had the same problem rubbing and melting of hood/intake . Fixed that by gutting hood and install the timbersled intake no more melting runs alot cooler under the hood. I now have a new problem cant seem to get it to run as good a bad bog about 7000 RPM. I am not sure if it is this intake or my pure logic settings are off? Is anyone out there running a slp single pipe set with the TS intake and a pure logic controler? I also have my air temp sensor going to the stock computer instead of through the PL box because when wired through the PL it would give me a code about temp sensor shorting throwing the sled into limp mode. Maybe the TS intakes are know for this bog???
 
m-8's run better with the stock air intake.....also, the temp sensor will give you fits/poor running quality if not set-up just right....some people have found success by taping the sensor back behing the oil reservoir, and then adjusting the fuel until it runs best.....but the stock air intake is probably the biggest issue right now, and if you put the stock intake back on, the temp sensor would be where both slp and pl have the system designed for....
 
m-8's run better with the stock air intake.....also, the temp sensor will give you fits/poor running quality if not set-up just right....some people have found success by taping the sensor back behing the oil reservoir, and then adjusting the fuel until it runs best.....but the stock air intake is probably the biggest issue right now, and if you put the stock intake back on, the temp sensor would be where both slp and pl have the system designed for....

I will disagree with you on this. There are different quality intakes out there. I personally have the BDX intake. I believe that the key is the shelf that seperates the underhood heat from the intake. I have not had any bogging issue with mine(except when the silencer was plugged). I have heard of quite a few problems with other brands but not with the BDX.
 
I will disagree with you on this. There are different quality intakes out there. I personally have the BDX intake. I believe that the key is the shelf that seperates the underhood heat from the intake. I have not had any bogging issue with mine(except when the silencer was plugged). I have heard of quite a few problems with other brands but not with the BDX.


Big Red I am with you on this. I have the AMP Gauge Cage on my sled and of course run the BD-X intake. There is so much heat coming out of the speedo hole I can't imagine an intake without some type of block off for the under hood heat. Granted the heat is rising but still I wonder about intakes breathing under hood hot air.
 
Ok guys thanks for the help. I am going to put the stock intake back on and if that solves the bog I will go from there. Now I will just have to deal with all the under hood heat again.
 
I had the same problem rubbing and melting of hood/intake . Fixed that by gutting hood and install the timbersled intake no more melting runs alot cooler under the hood. I now have a new problem cant seem to get it to run as good a bad bog about 7000 RPM. I am not sure if it is this intake or my pure logic settings are off? Is anyone out there running a slp single pipe set with the TS intake and a pure logic controler? I also have my air temp sensor going to the stock computer instead of through the PL box because when wired through the PL it would give me a code about temp sensor shorting throwing the sled into limp mode. Maybe the TS intakes are know for this bog???

im running the bmp bigbore pipe..i have the timbersled intake 900 bigbore..pl box...my air temp sensor is hooked up..NO BOG...NEVER ANY SIGN OF BOG...i did have some rich conditions at first cause i started fat...i was intimindated by the pl box at first but so far like it...you should really check your air temp sensor wiring etc..as well use dielectric grease on connections...so far i am 3 green...4 yellow...6 red...7/8 engage red...my egts are a little cool at wot so i can probably back off red one or two..i was surprised at how far into the range the green effects...it was more then i expected...oh yea i reduced my fuel pressure to 41 psi from 45..so far the box is becoming very predictable...a pleasant surprise..i did lose some rpm with the box installed but stock map with this big bore had my top end right on the outer limit performance edge..the plugs where whitening and egts climbing fast..l will run her a little fatter and just clutch for the extra rpm...she is fairly crisp..like i said just going to back off the red one or so...the bottom end is really good..right in there..give or take a dot
 
I just installed the SLP pipe kit on my '07 M8. Bought a roll of 3" wide aluminum tape and roll of foil faced pipe insulating wrap with adhesive backing in the HVAC dept. at Menard's (hardware store). Had some exhaust pipe wrap for my Harley in the garage (available at any HD dealer, Dennis Kirk, or other bike parts sellers). I lined the hood in the pipe area with the aluminum tape. Used the pipe insulation on the area under the instrument cluster. On the part of the hood nearly touching the pipe, I taped two 4"long pieces of the exhaust wrap next to each other using the aluminum tape. After several hours of riding, no problem and no melting.
 
I just installed the SLP pipe kit on my '07 M8. Bought a roll of 3" wide aluminum tape and roll of foil faced pipe insulating wrap with adhesive backing in the HVAC dept. at Menard's (hardware store). Had some exhaust pipe wrap for my Harley in the garage (available at any HD dealer, Dennis Kirk, or other bike parts sellers). I lined the hood in the pipe area with the aluminum tape. Used the pipe insulation on the area under the instrument cluster. On the part of the hood nearly touching the pipe, I taped two 4"long pieces of the exhaust wrap next to each other using the aluminum tape. After several hours of riding, no problem and no melting.

clarify please Chip....did you tape the exhaust wrap on the pipe or hood..??..i would think the pipe..??..thanx..
 
Ok guys thanks for the help. I am going to put the stock intake back on and if that solves the bog I will go from there. Now I will just have to deal with all the under hood heat again.

I don't think it has anything to do with the stock intake, i just put the timbersled intake on mine i only have a mbrp can so i can't comment on the pipe thing but i tell ya the timbersled intake system is great my sled feels like a different machine and it only makes sence that it should, that stock box is a hp robber and under the hood temps would be worse i am not to sure if you have hood vents but that makes a huge difference too i can feel the heat pouring out of mine works good and the difference is amazing i got no bog at all my m8 can finally breath.
 
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