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2007 rmk 600 ho 155 boggy bottom end....

My wifes 600 just has little to no bottom end, gotta really get into the throtle to make it clean up. Its alright at the top.

Here is the set up on it:
Slp pipe and can, Slp air horn intake, V Force reeds, Orange exhaust springs,
Carb needles at setting 2 with 1 shim, 320 main jets, 145 pilot jets, pilot screws are 1 turn out from full closed,
Primary clutch has a black/green spring and 10-58 ramps
Secondary red/black spring and 56/42/36er helix
19/41 gearing
Most of our riding is form 5000' to 8000'

Help is needed to make this thing rip without big boring it.
 
So I pulled out the reeds to inspect the condition, a few of the top pelts are starting to lift looking threw they up to a light, I will be replacing them. But would this cause the bogging on the bottom?
 
Sorry I didnt see the altitude. I think you are lean on the pilot. I would stick with the factory 50's at 1.5 turns out. Try openening you fuel screws a turn. If it gets better you know its too lean.
 
I would put the stock 50 pilots back in. 1.5 turns out. You cant really close the screws much more on your current setup.
 
I have a machine that is set up basically identical to yours. Mine acted similar until I put some extra air vents in by the gauge pod. It just needed a little more air to breath.
 
600 jetting

you could do a search on 600 jetting, a lot of guys will say 40 pilots, .9 pilot air jets, and mains for your altitude. This really cleaned up mine at 750' alt. Its hard to believe they are so far off. ps fuel screws 1 turn out. I will run this out west and adjust the fuel screws in or out as needed. Also check choke adjustment. I have the same slp pipe and fire and ice airbox mod and intake vents.
 
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how many miles on that black green spring?

My wifes 600 just has little to no bottom end, gotta really get into the throtle to make it clean up. Its alright at the top.

Here is the set up on it:
Slp pipe and can, Slp air horn intake, V Force reeds, Orange exhaust springs,
Carb needles at setting 2 with 1 shim, 320 main jets, 145 pilot jets, pilot screws are 1 turn out from full closed,
Primary clutch has a black/green spring and 10-58 ramps
Secondary red/black spring and 56/42/36er helix
19/41 gearing
Most of our riding is form 5000' to 8000'

Help is needed to make this thing rip without big boring it.
 
Check your vent lines from your float bowls to the air box nipples, I had one of the nipples at the air box crack on my wife's 06 600 and it would load up and run rich at idle but run strong wide open. Also check your carb boots for cracks and make sure your choke cable is adjusted properly. Your set up is close to mine but I run 35 pilots and the fuel screws are out 1 1/4 .
 
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Agree with dotter.
Have the same sled. I went to .45 pilots, .9paj and fuel screws at 3/4. Also check choke cable and make sure there is free play when its off. Mine was tight and holding the plunger slightly open and was pig rich. Otherwise your set-up looks like it will rip. I have mine geared down to 19/42 as well.
 
Thanks everyone, I will look at that choke cable and be adding some extra air vent. As for that black green spring in the primary id say there is just maybe 1000km on it or less.
 
I have a machine that is set up basically identical to yours. Mine acted similar until I put some extra air vents in by the gauge pod. It just needed a little more air to breath.

You have gotten some great advice so far. The choke cable definately. I'd like to second the stock intake vents, they suck no pun intended. They get wet and then will freeze not allowing air and sled will bog. The 08's and newer they made these vents larger.

Firenice makes some nice intake vents to replace the stock ones and also make extra vents that are above the instrument cluster and below the windshield (2) and a single that goes right beside the speedo/tach.

It's amazing how much more responsive the 06 and 07 600 HO's are with these added intake vents from Firenice.

http://www.firenice.us/store/fresh-air-intakes.html
 
Got a Slp upper dash intake and new vf reeds on the way(old ones were starting to lift). Choke is fine, vent hoses off carbs to the air box are fine, cleaned the valves up, adjusted the pilot screw to 1 1/4 out. See next weekend how it's going to run in the mts.
 
I am thinking you should be be using the #1 needle clip position and the stock White plastic shim and I also use a .020 Thunder Products shim under the E clip to make needle position 1.5 for 6000 - 8000 . We ride 7000' max and mostly at 6000' and sled rips. Also run gutted air box and SLP air intake screens. Air screw @ 1.5 .40 Pilots 2.5 turns out on Fuel screw. Use what ever weights to make engine rev 8200 ++ RPM.
 
I've spent lots of time searching this same topic on here. RMKER from Enderby,B.C. had a good post for the 600 w/SLP pipe.
My twelve year old son rides an '07 with a 155" and the first thing I did was change the stock gearing to 18:43. Might be a little low for some, but I think it works great. Still have the stock exhaust but the rest is setup as follows:
gutted airbox with complete SLP intake kit.
using a VariFlow on the carbs, so MJ is approximately = 330.
.9 air pilot jet
40 pilot jet
145 starter jet
#2 clip position
1 turn on fuel screw
blue/pink SLP primary spring with Polaris 56gm weights.
58/38-.46 helix with Polaris red/black spring and 1 delrin washer.
Pink exhaust valve springs - stock color, according to service manual.
My son with all of his gear is about 130lbs. Sled will pull 82-8300 rpm all day, and the bottom end bog is about 95% eliminated.
P.S. anybody want to sell a SLP pipe for this sled ?
 
2007 600ho

I had the same issue with mine and the needle/seat was bad you have to psi check them.

High altitude settings 8-10,000ft elevation: 250-300mains (260-270 work best) 145starter 30-35pilot with stock needle and e clip on #1. Some are using a different jet needle #9FH4-57-this one is wider from the tip going up, so leaner all the way through but with a 35-40 pilot jet.recommend 2 Delrin washers to minimize friction placed together between the clutch sheave and the thrust washer, aka spring cup. (3pk is $10)Jet Needle, J8-9DGN06-57(stock on 600HO) e clip on #3 with a 35 or 40 pilot jet. Others are running at #2 position with a 45 or 50 pilot jet however it can create a hesitation and changing/lowering the pilot jet is the correct thing to do.
 
My 6 is rich on idle als but no hesitation or bog.

Your question about Reeds.....if reeds are bad you will bog like you have never bogged before. The worse they are the more you will bog...wide open the reeds are not in the formula.
 
Looking at my shop book, i am guessing that the pilots are 50's or 55's I wish the were color coded, these # are tiny.

Take a pencil and rub over the nymbers on jets. lightly wipe off excess with finger. Then use a magnifying glass.

Then if only the little nipponese folks at Mikuni would use normal looking numbers instead of those fricking science fiction engraved numbers we wouldnt have to do this!
 
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