The valves on my XRS won't open to their full position. The max rpm's in the garage are 7500. They move freely by hand. Should I pressure check the vacume tubes? How do I do this?
2007 RAVE Valves stuck?
- Thread starter scubado
- Start date
quick and easy thing to do would be to pull caps and check to see what they are doing(bellows on the raves). It only takes two more bolts to pull out the raves and give them a check and a cleaning wich is good to do anyways. I had same issue(only pill 7500rpm) so when I pulled the raves the one on the clutch side was broken and just sitting there. The bellows moved up durring testig wich through me off since it looked like all was working properly. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Thanks I'll pull them off and see if I can make any sense out of it
Thanks, but I couldn't open the link. Other threads on dootalk refer to this also, but I can't seem to pull it up in the search. maybe it's deleted or maybe my tech-skills are as poor as my mechanic skills.
I
INKEDRIDER
ACCOUNT CLOSED
RAVES
So, I have the same exact sled and it is doing the same thing ran great last year and now they don't work. I took it to the dealer and hooked it up to B.U.D.S. it told me that everything is shorted to ground?? I have checked the bellows, solenoid, valves, pressure lines, and I cant find any short.
So, I have the same exact sled and it is doing the same thing ran great last year and now they don't work. I took it to the dealer and hooked it up to B.U.D.S. it told me that everything is shorted to ground?? I have checked the bellows, solenoid, valves, pressure lines, and I cant find any short.
Try this test, its easy
Step 11 is where it usually would fail for a mag solenoid leak problem.
Here is a summary of Shop Manual instructions to test the RAVE system:
1. Remove the intake air box.
2. Remove the plastic RAVE valve covers (two screws each).
3. There should be no oil anywhere inside. If oil � bad seals.
4. Ensure valve piston is in the �partially-open� position, (photo shows piston top approximately flush with rim of casting).
5. Start engine and let it idle.
6. Validate piston is sucked down into the closed position and remains there, (photo shows piston top approximately 1/8� below rim of casting, and you can easily watch it move down).
7. Pull the wire bail of the PTO-side (left) RAVE solenoid and disconnect the electrical connector.
8. Ensure valve piston returns to the �partially-open� position, and remains there (photo shows piston top approximately flush with rim of casting).
9. Reconnect the PTO-side (left) RAVE solenoid electrical connector (don�t forget the wire bail).
10. Pull the wire bail of the Mag-side (right) RAVE solenoid and disconnect the electrical connector.
11. Ensure valve piston moves to the �fully-open� position, and remains there (photo shows piston top approximately �� above the top of the casting).
12. Reconnect the mag-side RAVE solenoid electrical connector (don�t forget the wire bail).
Step 11 is where it usually would fail for a mag solenoid leak problem.
Here is a summary of Shop Manual instructions to test the RAVE system:
1. Remove the intake air box.
2. Remove the plastic RAVE valve covers (two screws each).
3. There should be no oil anywhere inside. If oil � bad seals.
4. Ensure valve piston is in the �partially-open� position, (photo shows piston top approximately flush with rim of casting).
5. Start engine and let it idle.
6. Validate piston is sucked down into the closed position and remains there, (photo shows piston top approximately 1/8� below rim of casting, and you can easily watch it move down).
7. Pull the wire bail of the PTO-side (left) RAVE solenoid and disconnect the electrical connector.
8. Ensure valve piston returns to the �partially-open� position, and remains there (photo shows piston top approximately flush with rim of casting).
9. Reconnect the PTO-side (left) RAVE solenoid electrical connector (don�t forget the wire bail).
10. Pull the wire bail of the Mag-side (right) RAVE solenoid and disconnect the electrical connector.
11. Ensure valve piston moves to the �fully-open� position, and remains there (photo shows piston top approximately �� above the top of the casting).
12. Reconnect the mag-side RAVE solenoid electrical connector (don�t forget the wire bail).
Here is a picture of the hose and undersized nipple. The fix others have found and I used is the other picture.
I went through the disconnecting steps on each selenoid and found that everything works fine except the valves won't open to the full position. I pulled the pto valve out and it took a good tug to pull out. The valve is covered in oil and has carbon build up along the curved portion. also, one of the two matching springs is broken (It may have broke when I pulled the valve out). I'm thinking that the valves are simply stuck from sitting dirty over the off season. That would be nice. I'm going clean it up, put it together and pull the other valve.
When the valves wouldn't fully open during the test, was it because it was physically stuck and wouldn't raise?
no, I remembered that the valve moved freely by hand right after I posted this. Hopfully I'll get to spend some time working on it this weekend. Thanks for all your input, I'm sure I'll have more questions.
If it failed step 11, it is the mag side solenoid leaking most likely. The nipple is way smaller than the hose and the clamp that holds it on doesn't squeeze the hose tight to the nipple causing a leak path, that will not open the exhaust valves all the way, causing intermittent or lack of being able to increase rpms over 7400 rpms I believe.
If it hasn't been fixed as it was a recall, remove the airbox and the hose off the mag solenoid. Cut a short piece of fuel line that fits over the nipple and inside the hose you removed. Cut the fuel line to the same length as the nipple and slide the hose back on the nipple with the fuel line on it. Clamp using a worm gear style clamp. It will squeeze it tight and stop it from leaking. And should fix your problem.
SB
If it hasn't been fixed as it was a recall, remove the airbox and the hose off the mag solenoid. Cut a short piece of fuel line that fits over the nipple and inside the hose you removed. Cut the fuel line to the same length as the nipple and slide the hose back on the nipple with the fuel line on it. Clamp using a worm gear style clamp. It will squeeze it tight and stop it from leaking. And should fix your problem.
SB
I
INKEDRIDER
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Its hard to admit but it was the relay. Once again start with the simple things first.
