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2006 Chevy Crew LT Duramax

Still trying to wrap my arms around the 06 Model year. From what I understand the 06 LLY is significantly different than the 04-05 LLY. Also it is phsically identical to the LBZ except for the tune. Some say can have the stock LBZ tune installed in the 06 LLY. Does this sound right?
 
Haha you got efi live tuning bud. It is the most advanced tuning software that there is. It makes edge and bully dog tuning look like it was done by a 5 year old. Tell your tuner that you want a dsp-5. A dsp-5 is a knob with 5 diferent volts that is wired to your ecm. The good lads at gm left the availibilty to have 5 diferent tunes stored on the stock ecu. So! I had alight tow tune, a heavy tow tune, an economy tune, a hot tune that smoked like a mofo. And a max effort tune for racing. You can have your foot in it and change the tunes by turning the knob and feel the power diference. Its ****ing awsome!

This sounds great!!! I havent talked to him in a long time cause I've been happy with my truck,but I like this idea. Can I leave everything else on the truck stock? Thanks.
 
I finally found one. I flew down to Atlanta GA to pick it up saturday. Thank you to my Frequent flyer mile points flight was free. 2006 2500HD Crew LT2 with a LBZ Duramax.

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Try and find what tuner it had on it that will kind of give you an idea how it was treated, if that tuner runs alot of railpressure keep in mind that injectors will be in your future, as with any common rail buy some sort of filtration setup like a fass which is what i prefer as it seperates any fuel, takes out most of the air "verybad" for injectors and it also filters the fuel better due to there high pressure at which the common rail runs at any dirt or air kills them exstremely fast.

I would personally go with an 08 up get there newer bodystyle and interior some deletes and efi live transgo kit and ats copilot to get rid of the pos adaptive learning in the trans and enjoy
 
Try and find what tuner it had on it that will kind of give you an idea how it was treated, if that tuner runs alot of railpressure keep in mind that injectors will be in your future, as with any common rail buy some sort of filtration setup like a fass which is what i prefer as it seperates any fuel, takes out most of the air "verybad" for injectors and it also filters the fuel better due to there high pressure at which the common rail runs at any dirt or air kills them exstremely fast.

I would personally go with an 08 up get there newer bodystyle and interior some deletes and efi live transgo kit and ats copilot to get rid of the pos adaptive learning in the trans and enjoy

First, the fuel system can make 26,000 psi stock. The tuner isn't going to make high fuel pressure, your right foot is. If your tune has high rail pressure all the time the truck will sound like crap, lots of fuel rattle at part throttle... If the fuel filters have been changed at the proper intervals then there is no reason to think there will be any injector issues. With that said, bad fuel or neglect can cause a ton of issues later in the trucks life or sooner...

Second, DO NOT USE THE TRANSGO shift kit & a ATS COPILOT together, they are doing the same thing, both raise line pressure to the clutch packs for more holding power. Transgo is mechanically raising line pressure (trim valves & springs) and the copilot is electronic, together they will apply way to much line pressure to the clutches, that can seriously damage the internals of the allison (split cases, blown out clutch pistons, etc).

Third the adaptive shift feature cannot be turned off... 01' tcms have the least amount of adaptive learn but they all have it. Efilive or any other tuner can't turn it off.
 
I finally found one. I flew down to Atlanta GA to pick it up saturday. Thank you to my Frequent flyer mile points flight was free. 2006 2500HD Crew LT2 with a LBZ Duramax.

Truck looks good! If you care there are some ways to figure out if the truck has been modded.

Gauges on the pillar or holes in the pillar are good indicator.

Exhaust systems and cold air intakes.

Exhaust temp probes in the exhaust manifolds or plugs.

Truck looks pretty unmolested... Any of the above done to it?
 
I have no reason to believe there has been a tuner on the truck. It is a one owner truck according to the carfax. Doesn't mean it wasn't tuned but I can look for the aboved mentioned holes.
 
I have no reason to believe there has been a tuner on the truck. It is a one owner truck according to the carfax. Doesn't mean it wasn't tuned but I can look for the aboved mentioned holes.

Congrats! I bought a 2007 LBZ two years ago and have loved it!
I have the cognito 2" level kit on mine, 4" straight exhaust, Edge tuner, EGR blocker. My next mod will be a lift pump, so i can get rid of the damn fuel pressure code that goes off everytime i put my foot into the pedal! im up to 150K on mine and runs like a top.

Your first mods:
4" Exhaust (turbo back)
Small Tuner
Fuel mileage will increase dramatically with just those two mods.

I get 16 mpg with two sleds on the deck at 80 mph. i always see 19-20 empty at 80 mph...
 
Congrats! I bought a 2007 LBZ two years ago and have loved it!
I have the cognito 2" level kit on mine, 4" straight exhaust, Edge tuner, EGR blocker. My next mod will be a lift pump, so i can get rid of the damn fuel pressure code that goes off everytime i put my foot into the pedal! im up to 150K on mine and runs like a top.

Your first mods:
4" Exhaust (turbo back)
Small Tuner
Fuel mileage will increase dramatically with just those two mods.

I get 16 mpg with two sleds on the deck at 80 mph. i always see 19-20 empty at 80 mph...



I wish people would take the time to see how critical it is to have a fass pump it should be the first mod on any commonrail diesel its a huge money saver in the long run. Our towtrucks 04 and 05 dodge with alot of miles have been through alot of injectors as i think our fuel supply has really dirty fuel compared to most but since we havnt had one issue and these injectors have lasted way longer then the last set we had in so i think we have solved our problem. But really take the time to learn the common rail system and really take the time to learn the symptoms of a bad injector its not like the old mechanical injectors where you could get away with running one bad injector when a injector on a common rail system gos bad it affects all the other injectors and extreme egts. Simply way to exsplain it take a garden hose poke 4 holes in it turn the water on you will have 4 streams of water spraying out now say you drill one of the holes out with a 5/8s drill bit now most of the water will go out the larger hole and the others will probley just trickle out. When a injector gos bad in a common rail the injecotrs dont atomize correctly so the egts get extremly hot not just in the cylinder with the bad injector but all other cylinders also.

sorry for the long post but knowing how the injection systems work might save you time and money
 
What should be done first. Remove catalytic convertor, open up exhaust to 4", add a programmer, or add a Fass?
 
I guess I don't know much about FASS but I did the same thing as Phatty.

I did a 4" exhaust to the turbo (eliminate the cat). Then I added my Edge programmer, EGR delete and 2" Cognito level kit with heavy duty tie rods, pitman/idler arms and Bilsteins. The other really cool mod I did was HID's. Wow, it's hard to drive a vehicle w/o those now. They cost me $60 for the low beams. Now I'm going to do the high beams.
 
4" exhaust to delete the cat, PPE tuner or a Diablo sport are pretty much your best hand held tuners & those two can get good economy as well. None will match EFI LIVE but for a first tune PPE or Diablo will work well. I'm not a fan of the "on the fly switchable tuners" there hard on the transmission, mainly because of the adaptive learn feature... I would block the EGR and reroute the PCV. EGR plugs up the intake tract going into the heads by dumping hot exhaust soot into your heads, add the PCV dumping there you get a nice black mess that restricts air flow. A fass or air dog is not really needed, you can accomplish the same thing for less money and have superior filtration to either one. A lift pump is only needed for above 450hp to the rear wheels or if you are getting a low rail pressure during power regemin codes, that said supplying the CP3 pump with positive fuel deffinately won't hurt. A trango shift kit is good cheap insurance it takes your stock line pressure and basicly doubles it for better clutch holding power, it is cheap at about 80 bucks and can be done by the average guy as long as you pay attention.
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4" exhaust to delete the cat, PPE tuner or a Diablo sport are pretty much your best hand held tuners & those two can get good economy as well. None will match EFI LIVE but for a first tune PPE or Diablo will work well. I'm not a fan of the "on the fly switchable tuners" there hard on the transmission, mainly because of the adaptive learn feature... I would block the EGR and reroute the PCV. EGR plugs up the intake tract going into the heads by dumping hot exhaust soot into your heads, add the PCV dumping there you get a nice black mess that restricts air flow. A fass or air dog is not really needed, you can accomplish the same thing for less money and have superior filtration to either one. A lift pump is only needed for above 450hp to the rear wheels or if you are getting a low rail pressure during power regemin codes, that said supplying the CP3 pump with positive fuel deffinately won't hurt. A trango shift kit is good cheap insurance it takes your stock line pressure and basicly doubles it for better clutch holding power, it is cheap at about 80 bucks and can be done by the average guy as long as you pay attention.

I have my tuner set to the 85 hp level. Soon as i get the tranny built i will run it on the 100+ hp tunes. My truck always throws the Fuel Rail pressure Code, especially when towing, which as i understand is the trucks way of saying it needs more fuel than it can supply off the stock pump. Hence why i wanted to get the lift pump. Am i wrong on this? :face-icon-small-sho
 
I have my tuner set to the 85 hp level. Soon as i get the tranny built i will run it on the 100+ hp tunes. My truck always throws the Fuel Rail pressure Code, especially when towing, which as i understand is the trucks way of saying it needs more fuel than it can supply off the stock pump. Hence why i wanted to get the lift pump. Am i wrong on this? :face-icon-small-sho

At 85hp you shouldn't get a low rail code. What is the code, p01093? What year is your truck, mileage, & mods done? A lift pump may help but I think it would be masking some other fuel problem... I just went through all this on my truck so it is pretty fresh in my mind.

If your looking for Duramax transmission & performance stuff in Utah I recommend Trent Nell, he built a 9 sec d-max.http://extremeprejudiceracing.com/Default.aspx
 
At 85hp you shouldn't get a low rail code. What is the code, p01093? What year is your truck, mileage, & mods done? A lift pump may help but I think it would be masking some other fuel problem... I just went through all this on my truck so it is pretty fresh in my mind.

If your looking for Duramax transmission & performance stuff in Utah I recommend Trent Nell, he built a 9 sec d-max.http://extremeprejudiceracing.com/Default.aspx

Yes thats the code. I have edge evo set to 85. 4" exhaust, EGR blocked.
2007 LBZ motor with 160K miles (i drive a lot).
 
Yes thats the code. I have edge evo set to 85. 4" exhaust, EGR blocked.
2007 LBZ motor with 160K miles (i drive a lot).

The evo should display fuel rail pressure. You can test the health of the fuel system by unplugging the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's the 90* plug coming out of the top of the CP3 pump. With the regulator unplugged the CP3 should go to full pressure 26,000 psi @ idle on a LBZ, the engine will sound hard as it idles but is fine (just don't forget to plug the regulator back in). If it won't make full pressure at idle then there could be a number of things causing low pressure.
 
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