Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2005 M series questions...

N

nikeholley

Well-known member
We have a pair of '05, new to us sleds... an M7efi 153, and an M6efi 144... I'm looking for advice about these sleds... we upgraded from our '99 Powder Specials... YAHOO..!!.. I need an operator's manual, and what the heck is the round thing in the tool kit..??..:confused:
Thanks...
 
I never got a took kit when i got my M7, but if its got 3 prongs on it, im guessing its for removing the belt deflection cap. Where you located? I still have the manual and a couple things after my sled got jacked, if you want i can hook ya up.
Brian
 
congrats on the new sleds, you are going to love them:). The round thing is for removing the belt. You unscrew the plastic on the secondary remove the shims and screw it back in and it makes the removal of the belt easier by spreading the clutch. a coulple of things I would recomend if you did not by them from the dealer is change the fluid in the diamond drive. The other recomendation would be to get the suspention fix from HRP it improves the ride 10 fold and it is cheap. One other thought since they are 05 they came with the attack 20 track which is a great track when modified, but in the powder position it will not go anywhere on hard pack and your sled will over heat, if the track is in the Hill climb postion it will hookup great but you will go downhill at twice the speed of light and have no braking. Do not let these few things scare you because in my opion the M7 is one of the funnest and easist sleds to ride, my wife claims the M stands for manuverable.
 
I'm in the same boat as you... just got a 05 153 yesterday Mine the track is cupped like a mofo and spins easy on anything other than powder but we switched a 162 around last year and it did the same thing so idk.
 
Hey there Coxy... We're in Tacoma... where you be..??.. I'd love a manual... thanks for the offer...

Nike
 
Yes... we have the attack 20 tracks... the PO had them studded with the screw-in carbide tipped screws... I don't know if this'll help or not... I think that the track is in the original position... what are the pros & cons of the two directions..??.. and how do I tell which way ours is..??..

Thanks...

Nike
 
oh... after thinking about it... if the track paddles cup to the front... that would let it spin alot on ice... if cupped to the rear... it would dig well going forward, but not brake well... hmmm... so the powder position is cupped to the front, and the hill-climb position is the oposite of that...
 
Also... it looks like there's clips on the side panels... do these come off easily..??.. for what..??.. I'm gonna have to do some investigating when I get these out of the trailer...

Nike
 
the 3 prong tool is for adjusting the belt deflection with the plastic cap on the secondary clutch
 
To remove the side panel just pull the pin in front, and swing the panel up and back towards the running boards. Putting them back on usually takes a little twisting, but its gets easier the more times you do it. I remove mine to access my clutch, and to remove snow from around the brake rotor. Also makes things a lot easier when changing tracks.
 
Ah... thanks MJay... I 'll check it out..!.. I also need to put tethers on our sleds... where have you found is the best place to put 'em..??..
 
I got lame rep for some reason on my post in here lol.
Anyhow buddy, im just north, and a bit east of ya in the Kootenays of BC. PM me, we'll get this thing to ya.
 
Ah... thanks MJay... I 'll check it out..!.. I also need to put tethers on our sleds... where have you found is the best place to put 'em..??..

Put the tethers on mine right next to the key. The AC tether is a plug in model, no cutting/connecting wires. $25.
The M7 I have has only 1300 mi, but I've had no problems with it other than the coolant bottle finally warped a little this year and the cap popped off (30 mi from the truck!) from being too close to the pipe. You can add the heat shield form the newer models, and if it is warped a little, bend the tabs in on the radiator cap a little.
Add the heat shield under the ypipe to protect the injectors form heat (from the newer models).
Change the DD oil every few hundred miles. It will weep a little oil from around the top shaft seal. This is the vent and is normal, unless you see any drips on the floor, then it's leaking too much and a seal is probably bad. These won't survive like a chain/case with low/no oil.
Holz rear susp bracket for the front arm mount is a must, rear susp geometry is effed up without it. Read up on this and the Geo Mods to help the rear susp. It's actually quite nice after a little work.
Get the Sno Pro ski springs for the ski bolts, in place of the spacers. Eliminates darting on the trail. $4/ea and the sled handles ALOT better on packed trail.
Ice scratchers probably needed, but I've found that the M sleds do alright unless there's no loose snow on the trail.
Has a lean spot at part throttle 6000rpms??? Make sure you don't just run constant throttle at around 30mph for a long time. It would start running hot, presumably from running lean, when my wife would just "cruise" on it. If you varied the throttle in the same conditions, no overheat.
Have fun!
 
Oil Change Diamond Drive

Just looking for a tip on the procedure for changing oil on the diamond drive (new to the system) is there a drain plug and fill for the diamond drive and if I'm not mistaken you access it from behind the secondary?
 
Just looking for a tip on the procedure for changing oil on the diamond drive (new to the system) is there a drain plug and fill for the diamond drive and if I'm not mistaken you access it from behind the secondary?

There is a drain plug but you will never be able to fill it from there it is best to just take it out... five minuet job remove the secondary then the rubber piece that is stuck between the two parts of the chassis remove the five or six bolts that hold the diamond drive in the sled NOT THE CASE COVER BOLTS then go to the other side of the sled the break rotor has a bolt in the center of it that bolt runs through the drivers and all the way into the output shaft on the drive pull it out. drive will come right out then take apart flush and put oil in reseal and reinstall good to go
 
Hey there AZ800... thanks for the advice... great info... tell me more about the 'ski-springs'..!?!.. thanks... I have searched, but can't find any info...
 
The ski springs he mentions go in place of one... or both of the bushings that you can use to adjust the ski stance width. It allows the ski's to move that bit to avoid darting a bit, and to work with the suspension travel to eliminate scrubbing off speed (origional reason for snow crossers) etc. I haven't done them myself, but might someday.
 
anyone have an idea where I can find these 'ski-springs'..??.. also, what's the deal with the holz bracket thing..??..

Nike
 
Coolant Bottle

I have an 05 M7 and absolutely love it!! However, the coolant bottle on all three of my parties M's were junk. I pulled mine off and replaced it with an 08bottle with the screw on cap. Before installation I wrapped it with heat tape to protect from the pipe. Plus, the new cap is a screw on lid which is way better than the old style. Also replaced the lower rad hose from an 08 M8 so the bend wasn't creased from the small difference between the port locations on the two bottles. Geo mod suspension, clutch it and ride!!! You'll love it.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top