Newb with '07 M8, questions

[sonic reducer]

Hi, I'm a newb up in western washington. I just picked up an '07 M8 with 1900 miles on it. I have had it out 1 time and it seemed to do great. it seems to run pretty good, but I'm completely new to sleds. I'm getting into it for snowboard access for the most part, but the riding itself is damn fun.
so far all I've done to it is grease the zerks, pulled off the windshield so it doesnt break, and removed the underhood foam. I plan on doing all my own work to it so I need to start getting my knowledge up. I wouldn't mind doing some mods to it to make it easier/funner to ride but for the most part want to just maintain it as well as I can and not wreck it. lol.
On to the questions:

What would you recomend for a service manual?

What would be some items to inspect and service given that I just bought the thing?

what do you guys pack for a tool kit on the sled? I looked around on it but did not see a stock tool kit. What do you pack for spares besides the obvious belt?

how big a difference will aftermarket skis make? I need to replace a grab handle so thought I might just upgrade while Im at it. I saw the SLP powder pros are there other good options?

I have a bent lower a-arm that took a rock or something, will those SPI ones on ebay be a direct fit with the stock bushings or should I do a new bushing kit while I am at it? or other good options? the stock arms on ebay were either bent or the same or more money. what about getting a narrowed setup?

anyone know of a good tutorial for a clutch teardown/cleaning?

is porting the track a good idea?

Thanks!!!

 

[kiliki]

https://support.countrycat.com/posts/1424399-2008-2-stroke-service-manual

check clutching, power valves and all maintenance in the manual.

 

[sonic reducer]

that is an excellent manual, thanks!!

 

[jim]

Main thing you want to check on those is the primary rollers and diamond drive bearing...lots of threads on that in the M section on the forums. I have also seen a tendency for things to come loose on the rear suspension (including skid and tunnel bolts)...check for tightness. The rollers in the primary tend to go bad...if there is any slop, time to replace the clutch because they'll go fast. Port the track?...you might save a pound but can also cause damage if you drill bad holes...gain isn't much if at all there. Diamond drive oil should be swapped out...goes bad fast with low capacity. Motor mounts can go...but with a stocker for what you want, not a big issue...if you blow belts, you might have a mount issue. I would check plugs and replace as needed. Overall a great purchase with just under 2000 miles. Only thing I've seen stopping them from going 5k is the clutch rollers and diamond drive bearing. Have fun!

 

[sumtinwong]

I have ported a lot of tracks the amount of snow that sits in the track is greatly reduced as well as the rotating mass witch is the same reason we run belt drives in replace of the chain case its not just the weight off the sled! it helps it spool quicker! easy job just stinky get a 1 1/4 to a 1 1/2 center punch hole hog bit from the local hardware store and lay out a pattern {I have found a 2 hole and then a 1 hole pattern works fine but have put a lot more than that in them} set the drill in reverse IN REVERSE not foreword! the first hole will be the hardest to drill but as the drill bit heats up it will help melt and cauterize the rubber and threads in the track! their is a reason why most new mountain sleds come ported down the center and single ply ..... less rotating mass. all the little things you do will add up to your bubbies eating your roost and not understanding WHY lol good luck on your build SONIC

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

m ate'n it

Oil change for sure on the case( DIAMOND DRIVE ) behind the secondary clutch, inspect oil coming out looking for shiny metal, probe in the drain hole with magnet looking for metal..............nothing all good. There is an important bearing update you need to consider.

Stock these sleds are tooo high geared, you need to get ahold of BLACK DIAMOND and get lower gearing, especially if you have in mind riding double shuttling boarders up and down the hill.
When you gear it down it will put a lot less stress on the DIAMOND DRIVE, throttle response will pick up considerably, belt life better, climbs better, more top speed. New gears and bearing replacement at same time a good investment.

WARM winter, slow going riding double heat under the hood can be an issue. Wrap your throttle cable with several layers of aluminum tape otherwise you can melt the cable sheath and lock up your throttle wide open..............not good. If your oil tank isn't melted already, cover the oil filler cap and exposed oil tank with the aluminum reflective tape or they can melt and deform and be a pain leaking.

Hard to research but there are a lot of good low cost modifications that will improve your sled if you feel the urge. Lots of posts from the last ten years on making this sled work. When in doubt, check the last years of the m series 800s like 2010, Arctic cat after a long run with this sled model made about 90% of the correct changes right out of the box, shields/gearing/clutching/seats, almost all with retro fit to your sled.

 

[sonic reducer]

first off I really appreciate you guys willing to share your knowledge.
that is what makes these forums a great resource to discuss and learn.

I finally got a chance to mess with the sled a bit. what i've found:
broken primary clutch spring-a yellow. secondary is orange. should I stay yellow on the primary? what's the best setup for taking these apart? I have a full metal shop and can fab a puller or just buy one.

Diamond drive bearing kit- get the BDX kit, or does anyone have the numbers so I can go to Mcguire?


I bought some SLP powder pros from an ebay seller to replace the messed up stock skis but the damn install kit that came with em was an M10 bolt that didnt fit the arctic cat sleeve at all. I have the steel on hand to machine another sleeve to make em work but am pissed.

I am rigging a snowboard rack currently, a cheetah tunnel mount knockoff sort of thing. might post pics if it turns out decent lol.

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

m8

don't need a puller to fix broken spring, just pull the end cap.

if the gearing is stock, stick with the stock spring.

if you gear it like the later m8's, then stock cat short gold spring gives you a very low engagement, if you have belt deflection right, this lower engagement makes the sled feel like a tractor on bottom end, great for the trees, effective gives you a wider power band/better woop off the bottom, less likely to trench.
but if you don't keep clutch's clean and deflection spot on, stick with the higher annoying stock bangin spring