I have a 2004 Summit 800 with DPM and when i go out west at about 8500 feet it does not have the best power. It seems like a 600, wondering even though they say you dont have to re jet should i run something different? Also wondering if anyone has had problems with the RPM guages on them mine also does not work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Thx
2004 Summit Doggy @ 8500 Ft
- Thread starter superfly333
- Start date
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khaddon2110
Well-known member
you will lose power as you go up in elevation......
i thought I read somewhere a few years back that at 10K elevation, these 800's are down around 110HP if that
all DPM does for you is make those fuel/air adjustments to minimize your loss as you go up
i thought I read somewhere a few years back that at 10K elevation, these 800's are down around 110HP if that
all DPM does for you is make those fuel/air adjustments to minimize your loss as you go up
I saw somewhere that if you don't have either your headlights or handwarmers on, the tach wouldn't work properly because of too much voltage.....not sure if this is your problem or not but thought i would pass it on.
if comparing a 600 at 8500 and 800 at 8500 and they feel similar...somethings wrong.
clutching most likely? what rpms? and fluctuation was or can be an issue w/ stock clutching. as in RPMs hit 8000 and fall off, or vice versa.
but the aprox calculation is 3% HP loss per 1,000 feet, for a N/A engine.
so using 150 HP (~ stock HP).
.03 * 8.5 = 0.255 aka 25.5% HP loss
.255 * 150 = 38.25 aka 38.25 HP loss
150 - 38.25 = 111.75 aka 111.75 HP @ 8500 feet
with DPM, there should be no need for rejetting on an otherwise stock sled...
some can use 1 jet size drop, but its not required for any changes in elevation.
clutching most likely? what rpms? and fluctuation was or can be an issue w/ stock clutching. as in RPMs hit 8000 and fall off, or vice versa.
but the aprox calculation is 3% HP loss per 1,000 feet, for a N/A engine.
so using 150 HP (~ stock HP).
.03 * 8.5 = 0.255 aka 25.5% HP loss
.255 * 150 = 38.25 aka 38.25 HP loss
150 - 38.25 = 111.75 aka 111.75 HP @ 8500 feet
with DPM, there should be no need for rejetting on an otherwise stock sled...
some can use 1 jet size drop, but its not required for any changes in elevation.
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swrev
Well-known member
What number do you have your primary clickers on? At that elevation I run my 800 Rev at 6, but I am running a 162 track, before when I was a 144 I would change between 4 or 5 depending on the temperature. I don't know if it really helped it on the "doggy" feel, but it helped it maintain RPM when under a load.
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BackCountryBob
Well-known member
DJ's corrected HP at 8,500' altitude is correct at -25.5%, but the 04 was factory rated at 136.
So, 136HP-25.5%=101 HP. This is LESS HP than a stock 600 at sea level.
BCB
So, 136HP-25.5%=101 HP. This is LESS HP than a stock 600 at sea level.
BCB
Would jetting one size down affect the reliability of the motor. I had re built it beginning of last year when i purchased it?
dont rejet, DPM does plenty, burned down a motor cuz i rejeted for elevation...
and honestly, its just elevation, you say when you go out west, so im assuming you normally ride at MUCH lower elevations, like around 1000 feet. and you say it feels like a 600, all sleds make way less power up that high, thats just how it is, unless you rode a 600 at that elevation, then its clutching.
my rt 1000 down in the valley at 3k feet rips my arms off, bring it up to 10000 and the thing still makes sick power, just looses a lot of response and true grunt.
and honestly, its just elevation, you say when you go out west, so im assuming you normally ride at MUCH lower elevations, like around 1000 feet. and you say it feels like a 600, all sleds make way less power up that high, thats just how it is, unless you rode a 600 at that elevation, then its clutching.
my rt 1000 down in the valley at 3k feet rips my arms off, bring it up to 10000 and the thing still makes sick power, just looses a lot of response and true grunt.
I quote turbo al and rkt
100% @ 0000' elevation [150hp]
89% @ 3280' elevation [134hp]
78% @ 6560' elevation [117hp]
60% @ 9850' elevation [90hp]
56% @ 13120' elevation [84hp]
53% @ 16400' elevation [80hp]
A reasonable gauge to go by - slowly going from a 800 to a 700 to a 600 as elevation increases, so there are difficulties in clutch tuning a mtn sled, but...that is what the clicker is for.
100% @ 0000' elevation [150hp]
89% @ 3280' elevation [134hp]
78% @ 6560' elevation [117hp]
60% @ 9850' elevation [90hp]
56% @ 13120' elevation [84hp]
53% @ 16400' elevation [80hp]
A reasonable gauge to go by - slowly going from a 800 to a 700 to a 600 as elevation increases, so there are difficulties in clutch tuning a mtn sled, but...that is what the clicker is for.
do you know how much pin wieght you have in it now? you will need to loss some pin weight at elevation , also do you know what you have for jetting now?
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BackCountryBob
Well-known member
04 REV-800, no pin weight at 8500 and up.
BCB
BCB
Jetting is what ski-doo recomends, and i am running out west at 8500 feet the hollow pins.
jetting & pinweight
like others have said you are going to lose a lot of power up in elevation , does it seem good again when ride it at lower elevation? hollow pins should be right for 8500 ft. [ stock setup], as for jetting what do your plugs look like? when I had a stock setup I want from 400 mains to 390s and it did help BUT read your plugs , not all motors are the same, you may want to consider a gear change for elevation, good luck
like others have said you are going to lose a lot of power up in elevation , does it seem good again when ride it at lower elevation? hollow pins should be right for 8500 ft. [ stock setup], as for jetting what do your plugs look like? when I had a stock setup I want from 400 mains to 390s and it did help BUT read your plugs , not all motors are the same, you may want to consider a gear change for elevation, good luck
What would you run for gears, and would that change the settings i have to be on for my clickers? My plugs are burning just fine, and it is running good at 2000'
gear
you can doo a search on here to see what others are doing, i went from a lower 45 tooth to a 47 tooth, others have changed the top tooth wuth good results, good luck , Ken
you can doo a search on here to see what others are doing, i went from a lower 45 tooth to a 47 tooth, others have changed the top tooth wuth good results, good luck , Ken
Others will say it, and I will too..clickering beyond 4 typically hurts your top end speed/track speed. You gain Rs, but your just buzzing the engine instead of loading it.
Better off dropping some pin weight, or respringing and clickering down. IMO.
I like to clicker in the 2-3 range.. When I'd go to 4 or 5 I could feel a noticable difference [drop] in top end "pull". I was making pulls on Widow Maker (Wyoming) and was a bit short on RPM, clickered up, gained some Rs, but didn't change my mark on the hill. And I was doing my best to poach my own track!
But, that little hills getting slayed this season....
But now you have DJ's (Dynamo^Joe) attention, so...
You definetly need to reclutch if changing elevation more than ~4-5k feet...Clickers will only make up for so much..
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BackCountryBob
Well-known member
While you are checking out your clutch make sure the spring retaining cap is solid. I had performance issues with D^Js kit until he told me to check the bushing in the spring retaining cap. It was bad and so was the moving disc bushing. Once I changed it out the sled really rocked--enough so that it out ran an 07 Felker 144 and a well broken in 08 XP 153 in a deep powder drag race.
BCB
BCB
What color spring would be good to go to. Most of my riding is done out west, but i do ride around home (Central MN) a little.
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BackCountryBob
Well-known member
Some of us have used the black primary 'cause it is a soft entry good for boondocking. Call a dealer in the area you are planning to visit and get their recommendations as 8500' in the Cascades is different than 8500' here in Co/Wy.
I am sure there will be other opinions.
BCB
I am sure there will be other opinions.
BCB
