I just picked up a 2004 800 vertical escape and I honestly know very little about sleds in general. I live in Northern Alberta Canada and have some ? first jetting? flat land no mountain riding ( or very little ) sled has twin crankshop pipes what should i run. second, should i look to get rid of the pipes and run stock ( less issues ? ) third, is there any mods that i can do so i don't have to jet . thanks for any info .
2004 800 vertical escape general help wanted
- Thread starter shoe cold lake
- Start date
You need to contact the crankshop and get a jetting chart for their pipes.
Install a holtzman atacc and you will never need to rejet again. I have one on my 03 V. edge and have done two mountain trips, never touched jetting. I run 490 jets with my SLP twins and atacc, runs well.
Install a holtzman atacc and you will never need to rejet again. I have one on my 03 V. edge and have done two mountain trips, never touched jetting. I run 490 jets with my SLP twins and atacc, runs well.
You may want to add some additional air intake ports aswell, check SLP's website.
I also have to run 20% race fuel at 2200ft with the SLP pipes and stock head, not sure about crankshops though.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/09-843.pdf
I also have to run 20% race fuel at 2200ft with the SLP pipes and stock head, not sure about crankshops though.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/09-843.pdf
Holtzma aatac
where is a good place to look for one of these in our neck of the woods. thanks for helping me out.
where is a good place to look for one of these in our neck of the woods. thanks for helping me out.
awesome thanks !! anything else i should look for not sure of the clutching for around here seems to pull nice low mid and high rpm . what should be max rpm
I have dalton adjustable weights in mine, pull 69.5g here and 64g in the mountains.
If you contact Pockets on this forum he is the guru of these sleds, he lives in my city and help me set it up.
What do you weigh? I am 220 without gear.
I am using SLP blue/pink primary spring and Team tied secondary clutch with black/green spring i think and 77-57.46 / 77-59.46 helix but a different clutch will have a different setup.
This thing hauls the mail! Pockets knows his stuff.
Mine is stretched to 159 with a 2.25 track and i can lift the skis for some distance from a stand still and still hit 90-95mph.
You want 8-8100rpm but nothing under 8.
The following are good ideas to install, may not be needed if not going to the mountains though:
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=353
or this
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=356
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=1137
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=358
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=355
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=370
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=366
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=75
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=1111
There is a couple overlap of parts in the above depending what route you go with airflow hole options.
Also get the primary clutch balanced and have the sheave to belt clearence between .010-.020. .010 is what mine is at.
If you contact Pockets on this forum he is the guru of these sleds, he lives in my city and help me set it up.
What do you weigh? I am 220 without gear.
I am using SLP blue/pink primary spring and Team tied secondary clutch with black/green spring i think and 77-57.46 / 77-59.46 helix but a different clutch will have a different setup.
This thing hauls the mail! Pockets knows his stuff.
Mine is stretched to 159 with a 2.25 track and i can lift the skis for some distance from a stand still and still hit 90-95mph.
You want 8-8100rpm but nothing under 8.
The following are good ideas to install, may not be needed if not going to the mountains though:
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=353
or this
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=356
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=1137
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=358
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=355
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=370
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=21&productID=366
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=75
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=1111
There is a couple overlap of parts in the above depending what route you go with airflow hole options.
Also get the primary clutch balanced and have the sheave to belt clearence between .010-.020. .010 is what mine is at.
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WOW this is a big help. Thanks a bunch I will start looking at some of these options tomorrow. 
Since you stated that you are a beginner, don't change anything unless it needs fixing. If it runs good now and you are not burning up your pistons, then there is no reason to put an ATACC on it, no reason to change clutch weights, no reason to change anything. Twin pipes are so touchy that a beginner would take quite a while to get them running right. If you can get a stock pipe, can, and y-pipe real cheap, AND it is not running right, AND you are not hooked on some macho HP trip, then you could go back to stock pipes and jetting. ATACC are for people that climb mountains and they go bad in 2 or 3 years. Changing weights and springs is for an expert. The air box probably already has the SLP high air intake kit if it has twin pipes. Find out from the previous owner, what elevation range that the sled was jetted for when he sold it to you. Then check you plugs for turning a line tan, which means that they are too lean. You are most likely to burn the pistons at the lower altitudes, not the higher altitudes. If the sled has over 2000 miles on it, then it is time to change out the rear bogie wheel bearings. It is also important to fix tunnel cracks under the foot wells and behind the black side rear trim pieces. How many miles does the sled have?
there are just under 1800 miles on the sled. I have not even taken it out for a ride yet its been too cold plus working so not sure how well its running. it has the slp high flow air box already. I was told that new piston and rings were installed 50 miles ago for preventative maint, sled starts first pull and will run at idle nice and smooth, when warmed up i have only taken it for 1/4 mile seems to run okay just new to it all I also have an avenger 111 installed on it temp probes installed not sure if they are working yet but rpm seems to be . I am currently looking for stock exhaust , the pipes make me nervous ( not sure why ) . with the miles on the sled should i be looking at getting the crank bearing changed out? I can't afford to spend much so just looking for the most reliable options out there . thanks again for all the input 
I have stock exhaust off my 03 i could sell you, if its the same as what was on your 04?
The twins arent that bad, atleast with an atacc or tempa-flow. They take care of the tuning for you, just have to get the base jetting right to begin with (start rich, this is where a jetting chart from crankshop comes in handy). I had 520N jets in mine when i bought it, tooo rich. I slowly went down and looked at piston wash to get to 490's. I could go leaner but at a risk so i stayed with the 490's.
I never rejet my twins, ever. I have EGT probs so i can watch what is happening.
Personally i would pull the main jets and see what they are aswell as the needles and see what clip they are on.
My egts dont get over 12-1230 wot, its the midrange you have to watch for. I can get up to 1400 on 1/2-3/4 throttle steady pulls but thats mostly due to having the wrong exhaust valve springs, they dont make the ones i need anymore!!
I assume the 04 has VES aswell? might be worth checking if the S.S. valves have been installed and what springs are in it.
The twins arent that bad, atleast with an atacc or tempa-flow. They take care of the tuning for you, just have to get the base jetting right to begin with (start rich, this is where a jetting chart from crankshop comes in handy). I had 520N jets in mine when i bought it, tooo rich. I slowly went down and looked at piston wash to get to 490's. I could go leaner but at a risk so i stayed with the 490's.
I never rejet my twins, ever. I have EGT probs so i can watch what is happening.
Personally i would pull the main jets and see what they are aswell as the needles and see what clip they are on.
My egts dont get over 12-1230 wot, its the midrange you have to watch for. I can get up to 1400 on 1/2-3/4 throttle steady pulls but thats mostly due to having the wrong exhaust valve springs, they dont make the ones i need anymore!!
I assume the 04 has VES aswell? might be worth checking if the S.S. valves have been installed and what springs are in it.
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There is also an updated t-stat for these sleds which help it run cooler, part# below in pic.
There is an option of plugging the front cooler bypass loop aswell, many have done it with no ill effects.
My sled will run 120 all day long in some decent snow, if on trails or hardpack it will see 140, in/out of town i have seen up to 170. Scratchers are your friend when on trails or hardpacked.
There is an option of plugging the front cooler bypass loop aswell, many have done it with no ill effects.
My sled will run 120 all day long in some decent snow, if on trails or hardpack it will see 140, in/out of town i have seen up to 170. Scratchers are your friend when on trails or hardpacked.
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I checked online here:
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/c/polaris_snowmobile/parts
and the pipe and can are the same for an 03 and 04. I will sell them to you if you want to go this route but it will mean re-jetting and re-clutching most likely. I think you are better off to make the twin pipes work since you are already most of the way their. Verifying the main jets and needle clips is a good start to safe running.
http://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/c/polaris_snowmobile/parts
and the pipe and can are the same for an 03 and 04. I will sell them to you if you want to go this route but it will mean re-jetting and re-clutching most likely. I think you are better off to make the twin pipes work since you are already most of the way their. Verifying the main jets and needle clips is a good start to safe running.
Like mentioned above, altitude is very important. You will need to know what alt. it is set for now. If set for high alt., you won't want to ride it at low alt. The clutch may need a spring and weight change. The carbs may need a needle adjustment, and main jets also. The valves springs should be heavier than stock, at low alt.
You should have a friend or a mechanic help you with these basic adjustments, until you become more familiar.
You should have a friend or a mechanic help you with these basic adjustments, until you become more familiar.
with the miles on the sled should i be looking at getting the crank bearing changed out?
You don't need to change out a crank unless you notice that it doesn't wind up as fast, or you have visible play with your drive clutch, or the engine starts to sound different, or it doesn't get top RPM for some reason. When the season is over, you take your engine apart and drill the oil drip hole that Polaris did not install. It starts at the same place the other 3 start, but ends up over the the edge of the PTO side bearing. The angled drip hole would be drilled in the top crankcase half.
What you most likely need to check is to grab the engine by the VES extensions and lift. If the engine moves at all without the sled, then you need to replace your front engine mounts. You should replace your left front engine mount and double nut it with nylon lock nuts regardless, because the 800's go through those like butter. When they go out, then your engine twists and your PTO crank bearings go out. Also check the left side torque limiter/stop. If that is chewed up any then you already lost the left front engine mount.
You might want to remove your front shocks and give them a compression test to see how smoothly they operate out of the sled. And also check their black plastic grommets that hold the steel bolt guide. They get ovalled out and probably could use replacing.
Don't be surprised if your exhaust deflector has been flattened and is tearing apart the bottom cowling at the rivet holes. Remove, pound back into shape, rebolt w/ SS stove bolts w/ nylon lock nuts.
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Here is also a few additional torque arms to install to limit engine twisting.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=18&productID=166
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=18&productID=165
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=18&productID=166
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=18&productID=165
Thanks guys for the help.. I have talked to a local guy has almost the same sled and set up . turns out the jetting is good for my location, there are new springs in the clutch and weighted properly, also a new track ( bonus ) . Took it out for a ride and the EGT never got over 1175. Everything else look great all i need to do is remove the sway bars i guess. If ever in Cold Lake let me know and we will go for a ride or ill take you out to catch a big Lake trout here .
