2002 Edge Chain Question

[Mark's RMK]

I have a 2002 Edge that I removed the mechanical reverse after installing PERC.

I upgraded the chaincase to the new style (Pro-X) as it's a little lighter and uses the two piston Hayes brake.

I noticed yesterday that the chain tension changes as I rotate the jackshaft.

The only change I made was to take the 19T off the top and put on an 18T with the original 39T on the bottom.

Could my chain be stretched? Could my bottom shaft have a bad bearing on the speedometer end or be bent and cause a wobble?

Needless to say I was kind of bummed. I replaced both the top and bottom bearing on the new chaincase. Everything bolted right up fine and the disk rotor fits nicely between the brake pads.

My dad says I should try a different chain? Some get stretched?

Thanks.

 

[sled_guy]

I'm not sure I follow what is happening, but I doubt its a stretched chain.

Have you adjusted the chain tension correctly? You rotate the clutch forward to take out all the slack on the back of the chaing (the long piece), then tighten the adjuster down about as tight as you can get it with your fingers.

Make sure your gears are lined up properly (install them and use a straight edge between them).

Assuming the clutch side of the shafts are ok (bearings and mounting points), the chaincase pretty much holds the shafts the right distance apart. That said, there is slight variance in the system because there is space between the teeth and chain links so a little "tension" change wouldn't be out of the question.

sled_guy

 

[Hardass]

One thing about the prox case is the bell on the back of the lower bearing is a bigger diameter than a regular 02 case so the hole in the tunnel is sized accordingly. that hole would have to be ground out quite a bit to get the pro case in there? just a thought.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Chain

I'm not sure I follow what is happening, but I doubt its a stretched chain.

Have you adjusted the chain tension correctly? You rotate the clutch forward to take out all the slack on the back of the chaing (the long piece), then tighten the adjuster down about as tight as you can get it with your fingers.

Make sure your gears are lined up properly (install them and use a straight edge between them).

Assuming the clutch side of the shafts are ok (bearings and mounting points), the chaincase pretty much holds the shafts the right distance apart. That said, there is slight variance in the system because there is space between the teeth and chain links so a little "tension" change wouldn't be out of the question.

sled_guy

I didn't adjust the chain that way but will and i'll take a straight edge to the gears to make sure the offset is the same each way.

To be honest, I've never rotated the drivetrain before with the outer cover off. Who knows what my other sleds do or don't do.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Chaincase

One thing about the prox case is the bell on the back of the lower bearing is a bigger diameter than a regular 02 case so the hole in the tunnel is sized accordingly. that hole would have to be ground out quite a bit to get the pro case in there? just a thought.

The three mounting tabs for the 3/8" bolts all are resting against the tunnel without any force to pull them up tight. This is the second 02 I've done this too so if it's an interference issue, I'll need to check the other sled as well.

I think I could check it out by looking on the inside of the tunnel and look to see if the sheet metal is deformed inward from tightening the bolts.

Thanks.

 

[sled_guy]

What Hardass is saying is that the back of the chaincase resesses down in... if its a phantom case vrs the standard case. So check that to make sure that it settles down in correctly.

sled_guy

 

[Hardass]

Exactly That bell just fits that hole in the tunnel i beleive its part of the line up on every thing. And unless i have it backwards the pro is quite a bit larger diameter that the edge. And it will not fit, i have never seen one that was different.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Chaincase

Ok. got it. I'll check the tunnel side and see if the case is interfering with the aluminum of the tunnel.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Edge Chaincase

Both sprockets are in vertical line with each other, verified with straight edge.

The tunnel has plenty of room for me to run my finger around towards the chaincase and there does not appear to be any interference.

Anyone know if there is some process to keep the disk brake from rubbing so hard when the brake isn't being depressed?

Or do I need to rebuild the two pistons as the caliper is hanging up?

 

[sled_guy]

The brake drags on every edge I've ever seen. Enough so that if you are turning the shaft by hand there is some resistance.

sled_guy

 

[whoisthatguy]

You might want to take the chain case cover off and put some black tic marks on each sprocket at one tooth, and also on one of the chain links. Then rotate the track so the sprockets rotate. However you are finding alternating slack and tightening of the chain, should be compared to the rotation of each sprocket as well as the chain. If the slack comes periodically at the same time one of those black tic marks is in the same position, then the part with that tic mark is defective and needs to be replaced. Both the top and bottom sprockets get warn down and require replacement every 3000 miles or so. If you look at the teeth, they will no longer be perfectly symmetrical. If the top drive shaft is not centered in the seal for some reason, your top sprocket will appear to be defective.