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2-STROKE SNOWBIKE PIPE TEMPS... DOES THIS MAKE A DIFFERENCE?

What is your average pipe temp underway in deep snow for your CR/KX-500?


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I run a smart carb with a q11 I stay in the 12s to low 13s now if it is blower pow bottomless no base and I go into a 2 minute pull at around 7 grand then it will creep into the 14s to 14.3 and I normally pull back at that point.... But that is really raping the bike ... It's usually early season ... But those stay constant whether in is 0 or 30 or if my engine is 70 degrees or 130 ...

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by "12's or 13's" ... you are reffering to 1200º or 1300ºF internal pipe temperature?

Or is that an EGT measured at the engine outlet?

Is your pipe wrapped?

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Nope don't see the need and i am referring to temps 90 percent of the time I am in the at 1200... I installed according to the koso directions and had it put in the pipe and welded .
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I'm interested in Mid Pipe temps... like those monitored on Polaris Cfi's.

Exhaust temps, measured at or near the head outlet are measuring the temperature of the exhaust stream... and not the pipe temp.

In sleds, Cold pipes (not exhaust stream temps) affect overall power output of the engine... and the pipes are often wrapped/shielded/coated and are rarely submerged in snow.

On a two stroke Snowbike... I would imagine that the same is also true.

Moved this to its own thread to keep the "cooler" thread on track.


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A few people have tried wrapping the pipe the conclusion was it did not make a significant enough difference to worry about it ...

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I have tried a carbon guard on and off in deep pow but can't seem to tell much different. In theory, the colder pipe should peek at a lower rpm. This is bad on sleds with a cvt but on a bike you just grab a different gear. I have a ts st on a ktm 250sx and can't say I really want it to peak any higher rpm so im not woried about it.
 
Occasionally when you stop in deep pow then take off again you can experience a second of hesitation but that's about all I have noticed.

M5
I would agree you get the same effect as if you start you bike and go right away.. You loose the upper end pull till some hear gets going... It is easy for the bike to hit 30's real quick sitting ...

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My EGTs do seem to be affected. On the trail in, Rodding it i see between 1200 and 1300. Then when i get to the deep snow where the pipe is constantly in the snow my egts are always around 1100*

The bike rallys in both situations so i have not taken the time to mess with it. Also, i have checked my piston wash and it looks perfect.

As for the external pipe temp, my pipe has water setting on it pretty much right as soon as i shut my bike off, so it is not very hot while playing in the deep.
 
I tried not wrapping my piper for my rotax project because the bike guys said it wasn't necessary but after my pipe looked like Popsicle and ran like shat I new I should have went with what I know works! Wrap it every time!
 
next time mine is tied to the dyno we are going to try this exact thing. have some straight pipes we're going to put in a box full of snow and run to see what the result is.

my theory is that it actually helps. very similar to water injection into a pipe. jetski technology. in deep snow when the pipe is covered, the torque will be shifted down. in spring riding or after a long pull the tq peak will be at a higher rpm
 
port- please do summarize when you have time on what Neil has to say about his testing

CPI says, "I don't ceramic coat mine because 15 seconds into a dyno run they start to loose power, in 55 seconds at full throttle the ceramic coated pipe will have 15 horse power less than a steel one. I recommend paint or clearcoat."
 
Last time I shared something on here that was figured out with good old hard work and testing, someone else stole the idea and said it was their own.

Learned my lesson
 
seems crazy that there is such little information on this if it really can be a 15hp difference. Didn't the old ultimate 300 forum use a ceramic coated pipe? Would assume he would have noticed large power losses.
 
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