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2 Stroke Pipe Wrap or Carbon Guard

Clay911

Member
Lifetime Membership
Whats everyone using? Have to do something with the pipe and have heard wrapping and silicone spray is the best way to go. Also have heard a carbon guard can keep it warm enough.

What's the best way to keep the pipe temps up.
 
This will be on a 300. Why are they not needed on a 500? How does the pipe stay up to temp when it is constantly in snow?
 
I recommend not using any kind of pipe wrap. The wrap will get wet and cause the pipe to run cooler than it would without it. It seems to shed snow very well and quickly when it's exposed.

I don't use any kind of cover in my kx500 and haven't had any problem in this configuration. I have found that out that it takes about 30 seconds to get back up to temp after stopping for a few minutes on deeper days.
 
to rapp or not to rapp

so when you tune a two stroke you find that the hotter the pipe the higher the rpm you bike will make max hp and somewhat later it will come on the pipe..

So on a sled if your clutching isn't fairly user friendly you may find your cold pipe ( worse is pipes ) making HP right off below the rpm where you have your ideal shift point which makes a reall crappy running set which is why20 years ago sled mfg started putting insulated shells on their pipes, and smart tuner did to, and lots of guys ran naked cold pipes and fought their clutching for year in complete ignorance.


But on a bike with a MANULALLY SHIFFTED transmission the rider can feel the engine on the pipe ( read power band ) and shift accordingly..........so obvioiulsy the wrap does not good. Yeah......nice thinking gomer.

And pipe wrap makes more steam ?..........now there's one.

And buy the way, read the hp studies, hot two stroke pipes almost always make more hp..........hot pipe more hp ASSUMES your jetting is correct and intake and exhaust are fairly efficient, so bad jetting, poor air flow.........you might not want a hot pipe.
 
so when you tune a two stroke you find that the hotter the pipe the higher the rpm you bike will make max hp and somewhat later it will come on the pipe..



So on a sled if your clutching isn't fairly user friendly you may find your cold pipe ( worse is pipes ) making HP right off below the rpm where you have your ideal shift point which makes a reall crappy running set which is why20 years ago sled mfg started putting insulated shells on their pipes, and smart tuner did to, and lots of guys ran naked cold pipes and fought their clutching for year in complete ignorance.





But on a bike with a MANULALLY SHIFFTED transmission the rider can feel the engine on the pipe ( read power band ) and shift accordingly..........so obvioiulsy the wrap does not good. Yeah......nice thinking gomer.



And pipe wrap makes more steam ?..........now there's one.



And buy the way, read the hp studies, hot two stroke pipes almost always make more hp..........hot pipe more hp ASSUMES your jetting is correct and intake and exhaust are fairly efficient, so bad jetting, poor air flow.........you might not want a hot pipe.


I am kicking around using fiber fix.. They have a version for hot applications that is water proof... I usually carry a different version for emergency repairs... But this might be the perfect application...


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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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