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2.5" Convex track on 2015 ST install with photos

IceAge Performance

Well-known member
Premium Member
Since there have been a lot of questions floating around about this setup, we figured we would throw up a few photos and some helpful hints on how to slap it together for anyone looking at doing this upgrade. The new track is one of the biggest upgrades on the 2016 kits and an awesome option for customers looking to upgrade their existing kits!

Kit is 2015 ST getting the new 2.5" track from Timbersled!

Unrolling it out of the box, dang they look good.

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The install kit from Timbersled.

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Remove the 4 skid bolts and lay the bike over sliding out the skid. Supporting the rear bumper about 8" above the ground makes this a lot easier. Once the skid is out we can get ready to remove the track. This is where you have two choices. You can remove the chaincase and drop both driveshaft bearings out, or a shortcut we found on it. Remove the 4 bolts holding the right side driveshaft bearing. Then remove the front two 9/16" bolts holding the right side panel to the subframe. With the side plate loose we can now flex it slightly and fish the track out the side. Be careful not to bend the sideplate to far and kink it. Once the track is out, install the new track insuring it is facing the proper direction. Once the new track is in you can reinstall the bolts holding the sideplate to the frame as well as the bearing housing. We recommend placing a blue loctite on all of the fasteners when reinstalling.

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We can now move on to installing the drop brackets for the '15 kits. we did the right side first since we had the bike layed over. Place the bracket onto the bottom of the rear skid mount. Ours fit very snug and we used some Big vice grips to snap them into place and hold them while drilling the rivets. drill the 3/16" holes out and install the provided rivets from the outside into the tunnel. With a 5/16" bit drill out the drop bracket through the bottom of the original tunnel side for the skid bolts.

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Next reinstall the skid, we recommend the front bolts first then swing the back in and install those second. Use the provided longer bolts for the rear skid through the drop bracket. Again, we advise using blue loctite or equivalent on the fasteners. Once the skid is in flip the bike upright and check track tension. We found our new track required a slight adjustment. We set it up so free hanging the hyfax are in the middle of the drive nubs on the inside of the track or approx 3/8-1/2" of sag in track. Check tension after the first ride as shipping tracks rolls tends to create creases that relax back out and loosen the track once ridden.

Time to head out and enjoy your new found handling and traction!

Thanks for reading and we hope that helped some of you through the process!

IceAge Staff
 
I guess that is more cost effective solution in comparison to upgrading to a 2016 seeing there are so many 15 kits for sale at them moment.
 
I guess that is more cost effective solution in comparison to upgrading to a 2016 seeing there are so many 15 kits for sale at them moment.
Its a great option for any kit. The track is priced fairly competitively for the gains and makes a world of difference on the feel of the bike as well as the deep snow performance.

The radius makes for greatly increased trail handling and enhances the "bike like" feel of the kit compared to the original flat powder track. In our opinion feels better then the 12-15 SX kits on trail. Also, the 2.5" track straight digs. Side by side comparisons this spring have showed the 2.5" easily pulls the 2" in spring mush to deep snow. It gets you a lot closer to the 2" LT kits of old. You now get LT like traction in ST handling, and who doesn't want that?!

Not to sound like total fan boys but the new track is the biggest increase in function we have seen since the 10" ski!
 
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I did it another way. I found it easy to just remove the right side panel. I first undid the left rear upper swingarm bolt and also loosened off the rear idlers to totally loosen the track and then lay the bike on its left side. I then undid all of the bolts holding on the right side panel. (There are the 2 swingarm bolts, spine bolts, 4 bearing bolts and 2 small tunnel bolts). Once you lift off the right side panel, the track is easilly lifted out and replaced ( there is room to fit the new 2.5" track under the spine because at this point the rear swingarm is disconnected from the side panels). Reverse order to put it back together again. To mount the rear swingarm brackets, I uprighted the bike and hung the rear of the kit from the garage ceiling so that the rear of the skid was off of the ground. Both upper rear swingarms bolts are still undone from replacing the track. I drilled/bolted on new brackets then bolted the rear swingarms onto the new brackets. Total time was 1hr, 1 person including futzing time finding all of my tools. Stand back and wait for snow...waiting...
 
I did it another way. I found it easy to just remove the right side panel. I first undid the left rear upper swingarm bolt and also loosened off the rear idlers to totally loosen the track and then lay the bike on its left side. I then undid all of the bolts holding on the right side panel. (There are the 2 swingarm bolts, spine bolts, 4 bearing bolts and 2 small tunnel bolts). Once you lift off the right side panel, the track is easilly lifted out and replaced ( there is room to fit the new 2.5" track under the spine because at this point the rear swingarm is disconnected from the side panels). Reverse order to put it back together again. To mount the rear swingarm brackets, I uprighted the bike and hung the rear of the kit from the garage ceiling so that the rear of the skid was off of the ground. Both upper rear swingarms bolts are still undone from replacing the track. I drilled/bolted on new brackets then bolted the rear swingarms onto the new brackets. Total time was 1hr, 1 person including futzing time finding all of my tools. Stand back and wait for snow...waiting...
not a bad idea as well!
 
I did it another way. I found it easy to just remove the right side panel. I first undid the left rear upper swingarm bolt and also loosened off the rear idlers to totally loosen the track and then lay the bike on its left side. I then undid all of the bolts holding on the right side panel. (There are the 2 swingarm bolts, spine bolts, 4 bearing bolts and 2 small tunnel bolts). Once you lift off the right side panel, the track is easilly lifted out and replaced ( there is room to fit the new 2.5" track under the spine because at this point the rear swingarm is disconnected from the side panels). Reverse order to put it back together again. To mount the rear swingarm brackets, I uprighted the bike and hung the rear of the kit from the garage ceiling so that the rear of the skid was off of the ground. Both upper rear swingarms bolts are still undone from replacing the track. I drilled/bolted on new brackets then bolted the rear swingarms onto the new brackets. Total time was 1hr, 1 person including futzing time finding all of my tools. Stand back and wait for snow...waiting...


I'll be doing this! Thanks!!!
 
Great Write up...Thanks for the pics and the step-by-steps.

I wonder if sleds will move in this direction of crowned tracks?


.
 
Great Write up...Thanks for the pics and the step-by-steps.

I wonder if sleds will move in this direction of crowned tracks?


.
We were just talking about this!

By comparision, the flexedge and flexible skid that ski-doo employed produced noticable but not insane changes. Similar gains were felt on the snowbike. It made a difference but was nothing like the gains of going to the radius'd track. We would like to take a 3" and taper it on a new sled to see what it does. Doubting it will produce the gains it did on the snowbike just because of the 2 skis, but hey, you wont know until you cut up a $1000 track will you :)
 
That's ugly! I don't like the rivets holding it together either! I think if you bought a new ts in 15 they could sell you rails at cost or help you some how ? These things are so expensive and have no resale value..
 
That's ugly! I don't like the rivets holding it together either! I think if you bought a new ts in 15 they could sell you rails at cost or help you some how ? These things are so expensive and have no resale value..
If it had black rivets you wouldn't even notice it from 10' away.

Timbersled's job is to make the best product on the market, every year the next year will be better. Kinda the same in every industry. Once end of season hits and the next years stuff is out older units drop massively in value. Up until this fall you couldn't even find a used kit for much under $4k. The resale is doing just fine during buying season.

Its the spring of a bad snow year, nobody is buying anything no matter the price. Suck it up and wait till fall when things come back to normal. I have a sled for sale that I bought new for $10,500 and put 2K in quality mods on it and nobody even wants to talk for $6500. I would have to do less then 50% on it right now to move.
 
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That's ugly! I don't like the rivets holding it together either! I think if you bought a new ts in 15 they could sell you rails at cost or help you some how ? These things are so expensive and have no resale value..

The drop brackets do seem kinda lame, but im sure they will hold up fine. Believe me, You wont see them when slaying the pow!

Luckily for me, this track will go right on the '14 kit with no modifications:face-icon-small-hap
 
I wonder if sleds will move in this direction of crowned tracks?.

The lower lugged track like the ripsaw's have it , I did it to a sled skid and the front end turned to mush . Problem solved with a heavier springs since the valving was already stiffened .

One thing over looked is the track lug , when skirting or traversing hard pack , icy or even looking for a little extra traction , cornering and even picking it up out of a carve . Screws such as Kold Kutters make a world of a difference . They also work great for climbing over alders .

I can see where the drop brackets will probably be modified relocating the foot pegs since the balance of the machine has changed . Might even help with the gear jamming .

IMG_20140422_131003_398.jpg
 
It looks like I may have a deal to trade my Pro for a WR450 snowbike. Should be a great second bike so I can get someone to come out with me.

It has a 2014 skid. If I install the 2015 upgrade kit, do I need to get the 2015 track kit with the drop brackets?
 
It looks like I may have a deal to trade my Pro for a WR450 snowbike. Should be a great second bike so I can get someone to come out with me.

It has a 2014 skid. If I install the 2015 upgrade kit, do I need to get the 2015 track kit with the drop brackets?
2012-2014 kits have clearance to just slap the track in, no need for the drop brackets.
 
The 11-14 kits should be a direct swap without clearance issues. The 11-12 kits would also require a driver change from the older 2.52 pitch to the current 2.86 pitch design.

I've found the easiest way to do track swaps is by removing the right side panel, track adjusters and rear wheels(if needed). Easily less than an hour.
 
Can't find a price anywhere on Timbersleds site. How much do these new tracks cost??

Prices on T-Sleds upgrade page.

You can buy them from IceAge Performance... or other dealers.

http://timbersled.com/sbparts.htm?P=98

$800 MSRP on the ST Convex track kit.

$900 MSRP on the LT Convex track kit.

Plus $50 for the required drop bracket kit if needed
 
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To help clarify this a bit:

The two Convex 2.5R Track Kits, under the Upgrade Kits "tab" on the TS website, have the Drop Bracket Kit Included in them.
$800.00 USD ST, $900.00 USD LT. These kits are for 2015 ST and LT kits only.

Note: The 2015 SX kit does not need the Drop Bracket Kit.

If you order the Convex 2.5R track for any other model year you will not need the drop brackets, but you may need to change your drivers due to pitch change of the track.

The 2011 and 2012 ST kits will need new drivers and the 2013 through 2015 SX kits with the tapered Snow Hawk track will need new drivers.

Track prices, track alone, are: ST $750.00 USD, LT $850.00 USD.

Drivers $34.00 USD ea. (2 required if needed for your year of kit)






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Changed my track this weekend on my 15 st! I used Rachet straps on the shocks and collapsed them then pulled the whole suspension out and pulled the right side plate off and it was a snap! 1 hour no problem even with the drop brackets!
 
The drop brackets do seem kinda lame, but im sure they will hold up fine. Believe me, You wont see them when slaying the pow!

Luckily for me, this track will go right on the '14 kit with no modifications:face-icon-small-hap



I used some small bolts instead of rivits. This did move the track closer to the top front shock mount, hope it does not rub threw the track,
 
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