1st ride couple things

[scha0786]

just got back from riding my pro 600 rmk 155 all weekend. couple of things i need to give attention before next year and thought i could get some help.

mudflap- the stocker does absolutly nothing, my girlfriend got roosted multiple times. need a new longer one, can i run a stocker dragon polaris flap?

kill tether cord-pro design is what i use on my wheeler, does polaris make a stocker one for the race sleds that will just plug in?

boogie wheels-i noticed the non pro rmk have 4 additional boogie wheels. i know this will add a little weight but will adding these boogie wheels reduce friction on the track ?

the rest is aftermarket goodies on the list
vent kit
skid plate
rail stiffners
gas caddy
under seat bag
delrin washer for sec clutch

 

[sledfreak89]

Yes, you can run a dragon flap. Or if your looking for something bigger, we have a "Pro RMK-Long" flap that is 17" wide x 24" long.

www.provendesignproducts.com


-Matt

 

[theultrarider]

And yes, Polaris does have a tether cord that is a true plug and play for them. I strongly suggest running one.

And yes, the extra bogie wheels help when running packed trails or marginal snow conditions. But if you run scratchers, you really don't need them and will most likely have to run the scratcher to keep your engine temps down anyway in condtions that will give your hifax fits...

 

[scha0786]

And yes, Polaris does have a tether cord that is a true plug and play for them. I strongly suggest running one.

And yes, the extra bogie wheels help when running packed trails or marginal snow conditions. But if you run scratchers, you really don't need them and will most likely have to run the scratcher to keep your engine temps down anyway in condtions that will give your hifax fits...

what models ran the factory tether cord?

very true on the boogie wheels

matt, thanks for the link. i am gonna order that today, thanks guys!

 

[m7ascent]

mudflap- the stocker does absolutly nothing, my girlfriend got roosted multiple times. need a new longer one, can i run a stocker dragon polaris flap?

Better keep it a short flap, the roost keeps your girlfriend from rear ending your sled (speaking from personal experience). To many close calls and one rearending on the M7, now not a problem on the pro, haha!

 

[scha0786]

found the link for the factory tether cord, I'll be ordering this in the next day or two.

yesterday was my first day wrenching on this thing. I turned up my oil pump like others suggested on here. I did with only removing the hood and silencer. My alignment marks weren't even lined up from the factory!!!!They had it set on the lean side. So I stuck my little mirror back in there and set it slight rich.

I don't like how hard it is to (compared to my doo's):
remove the belt
check chaincase fluid
check chain tension
remove air box
remove clutch cover

thanks guys for the help

 

[theultrarider]

found the link for the factory tether cord, I'll be ordering this in the next day or two.

yesterday was my first day wrenching on this thing. I turned up my oil pump like others suggested on here. I did with only removing the hood and silencer. My alignment marks weren't even lined up from the factory!!!!They had it set on the lean side. So I stuck my little mirror back in there and set it slight rich.

I don't like how hard it is to (compared to my doo's):
remove the belt
check chaincase fluid
check chain tension
remove air box
remove clutch cover

thanks guys for the help

Changing the belt is a piece of cake???? No need to pull the clutch cover off. Just stick the tool in the secondary, give it a few turns and off comes the belt. Can't get much simpler. Chain tension is easy to get at as well? Yes, the airbox is a b!tch!

 

[scha0786]

the belt is just a bugger to get around the primary and between plastic.

still haven't got the track tension figured out though, oem is crazy tight

 

[pura vida]

actually the air box is pretty easy. pull the clutch cover and disconnect the fuel lines to move the cover/oil bottle out of the way and the airbox will come out the clutch side in three pieces.

pv

 

[tbeaton]

Yes, you can run a dragon flap. Or if your looking for something bigger, we have a "Pro RMK-Long" flap that is 17" wide x 24" long.

www.provendesignproducts.com


-Matt

i have the long flap and my buddy had the long flap. the flap length and size is good, but i can't keep the rivets in the flap. i have broken every rivet at least once and in many cases 2-3 times. i have longer ones than what were supplied and those have still broken. i mounted mine on the outside like the stocker. my buddy, mounted his on the inside and it flew off somewhere in canada while we were driving on the highway. the flap works wonders if you can get it to stay on your sled.

 

[Calvin42]

found the link for the factory tether cord, I'll be ordering this in the next day or two.

yesterday was my first day wrenching on this thing. I turned up my oil pump like others suggested on here. I did with only removing the hood and silencer. My alignment marks weren't even lined up from the factory!!!!They had it set on the lean side. So I stuck my little mirror back in there and set it slight rich.

I don't like how hard it is to (compared to my doo's):
remove the belt
check chaincase fluid
check chain tension
remove air box
remove clutch cover

thanks guys for the help

If you don't mind, could you let me know the part number on the tether. Haven't been able to find the one that works on a PRO. Thanks

 

[scha0786]

thanks for the tip on the airbox, i will need it for when i fog the motor.

when i disconnect the oil line do i have to bleed anything? the manual says no.

it says to just hold the oil bottle as high as possible while getting the oil line as straight as possible.

ill work on those part numbers, i think its on page two of this pro ride forum

 

[rotax]

the belt is just a bugger to get around the primary and between plastic.

yeah this is the same issue i have with the Pro vs Doos.. and apparently no one thinks an added inch..or 1/2" around the plastics is worthwhile so it probably won't change.. /shrug
granted, retooling for this change realistically isn't worthwhile, it should have been noticed in beta stages of the pro design.
once you remove a belt a few times it becomes a bit less annoying..but still could have easily never been a concern with a very slight change in clearance.

i had no problems adjusting chain tension however.

checking chaincase fluid is definitely easier/simpler/cleaner on a Doo with a dipstick. which is now a moot point on the new belt drive Pros anyway.

 

[scha0786]

i am waiting for polaris to offer the belt drive for 2011-2012 models and then the chaincase will require no maintenance

yeah really an extra 1/4" would of helped alot!

 

[Steelman]

If you don't mind, could you let me know the part number on the tether. Haven't been able to find the one that works on a PRO. Thanks

Been looking for the tether also. Anyone know the part number and have a pic? Thanks

 

[dyllaboy]

Be

just got back from riding my pro 600 rmk 155 all weekend. couple of things i need to give attention before next year and thought i could get some help.

mudflap- the stocker does absolutly nothing, my girlfriend got roosted multiple times. need a new longer one, can i run a stocker dragon polaris flap?

kill tether cord-pro design is what i use on my wheeler, does polaris make a stocker one for the race sleds that will just plug in?

boogie wheels-i noticed the non pro rmk have 4 additional boogie wheels. i know this will add a little weight but will adding these boogie wheels reduce friction on the track ?

the rest is aftermarket goodies on the list
vent kit
skid plate
rail stiffners
gas caddy
under seat bag
delrin washer for sec clutch

I would definitely get a skinz float plate! It has saved my bulkhead numerous times. Tree and stump tested.