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180 MCX Upgrade?

T

torqmonster

Member
Any info on the 180 MCX upgrade? I heard reprogramming, a little more weight in the primary, a little more boost, 1-2 lbs, and your good to go.
 
That's pretty much it. Tested with 190 lots last year and a little more responsive than 180 and definitely way stronger on top. There's a reason we put a + after the 190 on this kit. Outside of the big chute guys and pissing matches with buddies I can't see a need for more power.

LL
 
Who does a guy talk to to get the new programming and clutch weights? I've been running the 180 kit for a couple years now and would love a few more HP.
 
Just talked to Cody at Robertson yamaha in swift current about it, he said just send them your mcx box and they will re-program it. Cost was around $160. Not bad only 16 bucks per hp.
 
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Just curious about which box a guy needs reprogrammed? Is it the actual sled ecu located up by tool bag in front clip, or is it the MCX ecu? I'm not exactly sure where the MCX box is located, thanks for any help.
 
It would be the MCX box that would get the upgrade. If installed as per instructions it should be on the radiator shroud on clutch side. I just purchased the MCX 190 turbo kit from Cody. The MCX controller was tagged as 190. I have yet to try it out yet.
 
Please report back on how you like it. I may have to send my ECU in and get it done. $160 is pretty cheap for an extra 10 HP.

The kit is called a 190+. How much is "+"? Has MCXpress actually dynoed this?
 
Definitely!!

Definitely gonna try this!!! Wish I would have known a couple weeks ago when my Nytro was at Robertson's!:face-icon-small-fro
 
what exactly is this upgrade? Can't you open the wastegate? My mcx 180 runs about 10lbs (instead of 6-7). This is how it was adjusted out of the box and I never bothered to mess with it. I've been told 1lb=5hp so it should be running ~200hp? I just throw in a gallon of 110 with each tank. seems to run great. I definately wouldnt run more boost without a shim. Something I should know?
 
By running that much boost with 180 programming you are effectively burning up the margin for safety we engineer in to the map. You are running leaner and no amount of octane will compensate for a lean air fuel mixture. Some guys get away with it for thousands of miles if riding at higher altitudes but it will shorten the life of your engine. If it was my sled I'd re program the ecu for 190 and go back to pump gas. You will have the same power with your engine getting the fuel it needs.

LL
 
Is it 100 percent safe to run the 190. I thought 180 was the max that thestock injectors cou handle i spose their is some margin built-in forsafety
 
Landon, so only a reprogram is required then. I assume the electronic boost controller takes care of the rest and no adjustment of the wastegate control rod is required??? Is this correct?
 
I guess it would all depend on what elevation you ride at as to how much boost you should be running, this is just a quick chart that i found:

Elevation (ft) - Boost (psi)
0 - 6.0
1000 - 6.6
2000 - 7.2
3000 - 7.7
4000 - 8.3
5000 - 8.9
6000 - 9.5
7000 - 10.1
8000 - 10.6
9000 - 11.2
10000 - 11.8

So with this information, if you are riding at 7000ft you should be running 10lbs boost with the 180 kit. I wonder if the MCX guys have similar information on the 190 update?
 
I was told by the guys at Walt Healey in Calgary that they turn the wastegate rod in 1 full turn as well as update the box, i'm not exactly sure what 1 full turn will give you for boost but it must be a bit more.
 
Chart is exactly the same as 180 chart shown above +about 1.5 psi. 190 kit is as safe as the 180 kit. After a lot of testing we determined we could map for slightly more boost and stay within the limitations of the stock injectors. So the kit consists of a re program on our end and the owner has to increase boost on thier end. So either 1-1.5 turns in on watergate rod or a boost tee will accomplish the same thing. I like to keep the MCX TCV valve in use so I don't have to adjust for changing altitude or conditions but some guys like to do it manually.
 
Definitely gonna try this!!! Wish I would have known a couple weeks ago when my Nytro was at Robertson's!:face-icon-small-fro


Hey Brad, I totally forgot you had a 180. For some reason I keep thinking you have a 240 kit...maybe its a sign you should get a 240 upgrade :face-icon-small-ton
Sorry I forgot to mention it. Let me know when you've got a bit of time in between trips out west and we'll get you looked after quickly! - Cody
 
My sled with the 180 kit was pretty close to bouncing off the rev limiter on the harder packed snow, i'm afraid with an extra few HP this may be an issue for me. All i have in my clutching is the MCX weights that came with the 180 kit and the rest is stock, do any of you guys know what weight these were so if i have to go heavier i know where i'm starting. Thanks a lot for any help.
 
My sled with the 180 kit was pretty close to bouncing off the rev limiter on the harder packed snow, i'm afraid with an extra few HP this may be an issue for me. All i have in my clutching is the MCX weights that came with the 180 kit and the rest is stock, do any of you guys know what weight these were so if i have to go heavier i know where i'm starting. Thanks a lot for any help.

There are a few different ways to skin that cat. What is the sled and what is it used for? What primary spring and is it still running stock secondary? You could do something as minor as a primary spring swap to a changeover to an 8 BU set up depending on what you do with the sled.
 
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