156 X3 Installed
- Thread starter goridedoo
- Start date
A two foot square works well. I install the shaft in the sled without the track to make sure all is centered. Adjust if necessary, then install the track. This will insure the track will run true to the chassis. Not much room for misalignment on the PRO. With it true to the chassis there will be less rolling resistance.
IMO you cant puch a track accurate enough!!
Carls does not have track punched out they had a design change done to the mold so it can be done accurate and repeatable.
I sure wouldnt want to try and set the holes within a factory molded tolerance. nearly impossible.
Carls does not have track punched out they had a design change done to the mold so it can be done accurate and repeatable.
I sure wouldnt want to try and set the holes within a factory molded tolerance. nearly impossible.
I can get a measurement this weekend. And after I installed everything I could not get enough adjustment to get the track tight, it may have been tight enough, but after stretching there would not have been enough adjustment. Carls contacted me and they had some people out testing the track and it was transferring pretty bad and they had a lot of ski lift.. sooo Carls recommends moving the front arm mount on the rear skid back to the hole located directly behind the factory one. You have to drill this hole out with a 25/64 bit from inside the tunnel, there is a pilot hole on the steel plate inside, this is supposed to help with the transfer and gives you more track adjustment. There is also a little bit of grinding/cutting that needs to be done on the stopper on the rear arm, which is supposed to allow for full travel. I will get pics of all of this this weekend. My track is plenty tight now, and will still have adjustment after it loosens up or stretches out. I will finally get it on the snow next Friday
P
pura vida
Well-known member
Why not? How is it impossible? The track is 15 inches wide, and the pitch is 3 inches. You have built in guides. Make a template with pilot hole in the middle, drill said pilot hole, build punch out of steel to at least factory size, heat said punch, punch away. It is a rubber track with a hole in the center of it. Honestly, I don't see the difficulty. But after I do it, I'll let you know how bad it turns out.
PV
P
pura vida
Well-known member
You'll definitely want it as true as you can possibly get it. If it is off center then you are going to more track rub on the sides of the tunnel leading to less efficient power transfer. But your skid, specifically your rails/hyfax, limit how far off your track can be. If you are way out of wack there could be some weird binding issue but I don't see that very likely unless you bust a measurement (which is quite possible when I'm involved with something...!
) All tracks will move side to side under normal use. It is the nature of a track. When you turn, the track naturally wants to continue in a straight line which causes it to slide as far to one side as it can. The nubs contacting the rails keeps it from going any further. If you notice, some of your track clips run up the inside of the track nubs to help keep things moving when this happens.
On another note, I picked up a 2" x 1.5" steel tube that is going to work perfect for punching out the 2.6 PC. Now I just need to find the time to build the punch and actually punch out the track...
PV
) All tracks will move side to side under normal use. It is the nature of a track. When you turn, the track naturally wants to continue in a straight line which causes it to slide as far to one side as it can. The nubs contacting the rails keeps it from going any further. If you notice, some of your track clips run up the inside of the track nubs to help keep things moving when this happens.On another note, I picked up a 2" x 1.5" steel tube that is going to work perfect for punching out the 2.6 PC. Now I just need to find the time to build the punch and actually punch out the track...
PV
With the inboard rear wheels you will get substantial side to side track movement. That is another reason to be as close as possible with centering your drivers.
Moving the rear wheels to the outside/outboard position will alleviate most of the side to side movement. Stock out of round inboard rear wheels accentuate the side to side movement of the track. Outboard tires definitely support and maintain better track tension and alignment.
We have been sold on the notion that inboard wheels side hill better. Truth is the inboard setup saved Polaris thousands of dollars in production costs and made a substantial dent in their weight loss goal.
Moving the rear wheels to the outside/outboard position will alleviate most of the side to side movement. Stock out of round inboard rear wheels accentuate the side to side movement of the track. Outboard tires definitely support and maintain better track tension and alignment.
We have been sold on the notion that inboard wheels side hill better. Truth is the inboard setup saved Polaris thousands of dollars in production costs and made a substantial dent in their weight loss goal.
Last edited:
The 3" is on let it snow!!!!
Are you guys seeing much for increased vibration with the 7 tooth drivers. Also wondering how much this has dropped the top speed. Would still like to cruise along at 65 mph once in a while without being nearly tapped out.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
"According to Carl's", they did notice more vibration with the Cat style 7 tooth combo drivers compared to stock or even the new Polaris (xtro in the center) style 7 tooth. I went with the Polaris style over the Cat just so I didn't have to cut my rails. You will loose some top end but I don't think you will notice a huge difference running at 65. But I don't have direct experience yet, so take it for what it's worth...
PV
PV
PV
The reason I say punching accurately is going to be very tough is, The center driver (extro) aligns and drives the track. The drivers will be perfectly set up every 3". So you need to build a jig to drill a hole perfectly every 3" dead center on track. not off by as little as 1/8" or it will cause binding or vibration from the extro.
So in order to do this you need a jig that will fit exactly side to side 15" and make no errors in shifting side to side every time you make a pilot, on top of that this is the even funner part. build a fixture that fits exatly between rubber lugs that are flexible, rounded with different angles and have zero play or human error between lugs and width (the 15") and make a drill hole wich in itself drilling is fairly inaccurate, then use a punch with exact size hole drilled to guide your heated punch in the perfect spot. if its off .125 through all those operations that will be a problem.
.125 one direction .125 another direction a pitch or two later will compound the problem by not hitting track perfectly the same kinda like the belt drive pulley situation evolved by pullies being slightly out of concentric and the wrong condition created a tight loose situation.
Is it possible? Yes. Will it need to be perfect IMO yes and will be very painstaking and some good luck to get right all the way around the track.
I wish you the best of luck and truly hope it works out!!
The reason I say punching accurately is going to be very tough is, The center driver (extro) aligns and drives the track. The drivers will be perfectly set up every 3". So you need to build a jig to drill a hole perfectly every 3" dead center on track. not off by as little as 1/8" or it will cause binding or vibration from the extro.
So in order to do this you need a jig that will fit exactly side to side 15" and make no errors in shifting side to side every time you make a pilot, on top of that this is the even funner part. build a fixture that fits exatly between rubber lugs that are flexible, rounded with different angles and have zero play or human error between lugs and width (the 15") and make a drill hole wich in itself drilling is fairly inaccurate, then use a punch with exact size hole drilled to guide your heated punch in the perfect spot. if its off .125 through all those operations that will be a problem.
.125 one direction .125 another direction a pitch or two later will compound the problem by not hitting track perfectly the same kinda like the belt drive pulley situation evolved by pullies being slightly out of concentric and the wrong condition created a tight loose situation.
Is it possible? Yes. Will it need to be perfect IMO yes and will be very painstaking and some good luck to get right all the way around the track.
I wish you the best of luck and truly hope it works out!!
P
pura vida
Well-known member
Steep
If your assumptions are correct then yes, it would need to be a very precise operation. But I disagree with the basis of your theory, the center extro does not drive the track. The extros should never be used as your primary track driver. The involute drivers are, and always should be used to drive the track the vast majority of the time. The only time you want an extro to come into contact with the track is when it starts to ratchet, which it is intended to and does prevent. Every time the extro is being used to drive the track you are loosing efficiency. Additionally, even if a person was using the extros as their primary drive source, you would never do that with a single driver. You would always use two. IMO, the only reason polaris even adds the useless center extro on their current mountain sleds is for marketing. Everyone else does it, and consumers expect it. Hence the reason the center extro has been the first thing cut off my last three sleds. Proper track tension is what is important, but that topic has been beat to death a number of times already. Now that is in reference to 8 and 9 tooth drivers, but unfortunately, there is not enough contact area between the drivers and the track to prevent ratcheting with 7 tooth drivers without excessive track tension. Another point, although minor, any track stretches more than 1/8 of an inch from new. Now that does not mean each hole stretches that much but it would cause issues if the precision needed to be that tight and consistent. But who knows, I may be about to completely ruin a perfectly good track, we will find out shortly...
PV
If your assumptions are correct then yes, it would need to be a very precise operation. But I disagree with the basis of your theory, the center extro does not drive the track. The extros should never be used as your primary track driver. The involute drivers are, and always should be used to drive the track the vast majority of the time. The only time you want an extro to come into contact with the track is when it starts to ratchet, which it is intended to and does prevent. Every time the extro is being used to drive the track you are loosing efficiency. Additionally, even if a person was using the extros as their primary drive source, you would never do that with a single driver. You would always use two. IMO, the only reason polaris even adds the useless center extro on their current mountain sleds is for marketing. Everyone else does it, and consumers expect it. Hence the reason the center extro has been the first thing cut off my last three sleds. Proper track tension is what is important, but that topic has been beat to death a number of times already. Now that is in reference to 8 and 9 tooth drivers, but unfortunately, there is not enough contact area between the drivers and the track to prevent ratcheting with 7 tooth drivers without excessive track tension. Another point, although minor, any track stretches more than 1/8 of an inch from new. Now that does not mean each hole stretches that much but it would cause issues if the precision needed to be that tight and consistent. But who knows, I may be about to completely ruin a perfectly good track, we will find out shortly...
PV
3" in Poo
3" in RMK extended chaincase, two 8 tooth extrovert drivers, custom cut C/E # 9225 156x16x3" to a TRUE 15" wide track.
Faster track speed, less vibration and track heat with 8 tooth, no center porting hole to cause any problems, better resale of sled. Just my .02 cents
3" in RMK extended chaincase, two 8 tooth extrovert drivers, custom cut C/E # 9225 156x16x3" to a TRUE 15" wide track.
Faster track speed, less vibration and track heat with 8 tooth, no center porting hole to cause any problems, better resale of sled. Just my .02 cents
Last edited:
P
pura vida
Well-known member
Hemi
I agree for the most part but personally didn't want to go to the expense of a D&R or have to do any cutting. Also, the biggest concern for me is the effects on the handling characteristics a D&R has on the sled. I think the jury is still out on this and may just be personal preference. I think we all agree Polaris nailed it on the handling on this chassis and I'm extremely hesitant to do anything that effects it that can't be or is difficult to reverse. Then again, the lack of tunnel clearance on the Pro (and previous couple chassis) has been one of my few, but biggest complaints...
PV
I agree for the most part but personally didn't want to go to the expense of a D&R or have to do any cutting. Also, the biggest concern for me is the effects on the handling characteristics a D&R has on the sled. I think the jury is still out on this and may just be personal preference. I think we all agree Polaris nailed it on the handling on this chassis and I'm extremely hesitant to do anything that effects it that can't be or is difficult to reverse. Then again, the lack of tunnel clearance on the Pro (and previous couple chassis) has been one of my few, but biggest complaints...
PV
L
Lefty
Well-known member
Ez-ryde & a 3"
Got Carl's 3" & drivers, sitting in the shop.. Ready to install on 13 BMP 860. Looking through paperwork I see you are to remount skid slightly back. I think not a problem, the ez-ryde already is... Then
wait, the rear mounting point is different to. Ez-ryde rear skid mount actually mounts in the tunnel putting stock paddle tips a lot closer to the tunnel. Eye balling it, looks like it will be tight. Any experience or input is appreciated.
Got Carl's 3" & drivers, sitting in the shop.. Ready to install on 13 BMP 860. Looking through paperwork I see you are to remount skid slightly back. I think not a problem, the ez-ryde already is... Then
wait, the rear mounting point is different to. Ez-ryde rear skid mount actually mounts in the tunnel putting stock paddle tips a lot closer to the tunnel. Eye balling it, looks like it will be tight. Any experience or input is appreciated.Similar threads
