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12' dies every 100'

R

ReTodd

Free Member
Had an issue with a grounded power wire but got that fixed. Had 2 great days of riding but on day 2 around 30 miles it died like it was out of gas. Filled her up and started her up and made it 1/2 mile of mid throttle trail breaking. Died like it was out of gas. Fiddled with the wires for a few minutes then it started up. Did this a number of times but would only make it 100yds then died like it was out of gas. If I let it sit for a minute it would start and make it another 100' before it would act like it ran out of gas. I noticed when it was about to start I would have to crack the throttle to get her going. Also noticed if I turned off my heater it would die right away. Made it back to the cabin and warmed up for 30 min.

After that the sled started fine and drove it 6 miles back to the truck under various throttle loads without trouble.

Any ideas? 1000 miles on sled. Stock except headlight delete.
 
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how much does the throttle lever move before the cable moves? these need almost zero freeplay to work right..also any chance you rolled the sled over in deep snow and it packed snow/ice in around the safety pin?
 
ReTodd said:
Had an issue with a grounded power wire but got that fixed. Had 2 great days of riding but on day 2 around 30 miles it died like it was out of gas. Filled her up and started her up and made it 1/2 mile of mid throttle trail breaking. Died like it was out of gas. Fiddled with the wires for a few minutes then it started up. Did this a number of times but would only make it 100yds then died like it was out of gas. If I let it sit for a minute it would start and make it another 100' before it would act like it ran out of gas. I noticed when it was about to start I would have to crack the throttle to get her going. Also noticed if I turned off my heater it would die right away. Made it back to the cabin and warmed up for 30 min.

After that the sled started fine and drove it 6 miles back to the truck under various throttle loads without trouble.

Any ideas? 1000 miles on sled. Stock except headlight delete.
Click to expand...

While I don't disagree with the safety switch possibility, with the headlight delete I will also throw the stator/regulator at you. By deleting the headlight, you are creating a situation where the stator can overheat and fail. Letting it sit and cool can reverse the situation temporarily, until it heats up again. The regulator/rectifiers can only bleed off so much extra power before they overheat and fail (D8 regulators). Eventually, a stator that is showing this symptom will fail completely. The IQ mod race sleds were notorious for this issue, and to prevent it from happening, racers would add typically 3 heater elements to create a load shed for the extra power. Hope I'm wrong for your sake.
 
GREICO1 said:
While I don't disagree with the safety switch possibility, with the headlight delete I will also throw the stator/regulator at you. By deleting the headlight, you are creating a situation where the stator can overheat and fail. Letting it sit and cool can reverse the situation temporarily, until it heats up again. The regulator/rectifiers can only bleed off so much extra power before they overheat and fail (D8 regulators). Eventually, a stator that is showing this symptom will fail completely. The IQ mod race sleds were notorious for this issue, and to prevent it from happening, racers would add typically 3 heater elements to create a load shed for the extra power. Hope I'm wrong for your sake.
Click to expand...

Would the fact that turning OFF my Warmer's caused it to die support this theory?
 
good call G..I missed that he had a headlite delete..good posibility...might throw a voltmeter on it at cold start and watch the output as it heats up to temp(I think I would take it up to 180 or so on water temp to make sure you have the stator good and hot...
 
ReTodd said:
Would the fact that turning OFF my Warmer's caused it to die support this theory?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, yes. Go out with someone and take a rope. See if you can run 15-20 minutes. Most likely it will die around that time. With any luck, it will restart and get you home after sitting for a bit. If this is the case, the damage is done and you will probably need a stator. Like I said, hopefully I'm wrong.
 
I been running no headlight and no tail light for 600 miles so far so good. With the recent wet snow in Washington your riding moisture could be your problem.
 
GREICO1 said:
Unfortunately, yes. Go out with someone and take a rope. See if you can run 15-20 minutes. Most likely it will die around that time. With any luck, it will restart and get you home after sitting for a bit. If this is the case, the damage is done and you will probably need a stator. Like I said, hopefully I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

Would it help or hurt to re-install my headlights? Also, this didn't start until about 6 hours into the day.
 
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If it is the stator or regulator, re-installing them would only prolong the inevitable. Like I stated before, I hope that is not the issue, but have seen it a few times before and posted all this same info earlier this year. Letting it sit will allow everything to cool and is a common symptom of a stator issue. Typically, a regulator will cause erratic running, lights blowing out, and can take out a ECU if run too long after it has failed. Not trying to scare you here, and hopefully it is something more simple than this. If I am correct with the electrical, it probably won't run more than about 15 or 20 minutes, and then die. Let it sit for a bit and it will repeat for another 5-10. Usually, this is a sign of a broken winding that loses contact when it expands from heat. Eventually, it will just stop working altogether. I love the idea of dropping the weight of the headlight assembly, but the extra power can be trouble unless you add another outlet for it to escape. I will be curious to see how this turns out so please let us know what you find. I am hoping for moisture, but....
 
I have two 2011 pro's that did the exact same thing, both had shorts in the tether under the dash. Maybe you dont have a tether, but if you do, disconnect the tether under the hood. They would run for 100' then die and start again after a few minutes, then die again. You have a short somewhere.
 
Searam said:
I had same problem with 10 dragon and it was bad voltage regulator
Click to expand...

X2- When I was in the Big Horns in the beginning of the month I had the same situation and it ended up being the VR. 10 D8

Hope its not a VR issue with the Pros
 
ReTodd said:
How can u test the vr and stator (assuming it has continuity)?

Rt
Click to expand...

well the one problem with testing a stator and it has failed like g says is this. when it cools down the two wires will connect themselves back together. when the warm up they will move apart causing the sled to die.
 
Hairy Mark said:
well the one problem with testing a stator and it has failed like g says is this. when it cools down the two wires will connect themselves back together. when the warm up they will move apart causing the sled to die.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Supposedly if the PRO is like the old 900 IQ the stator has two independent sides. One runs the motor and the other the lights and so on. I know because we fought the issue in West Yellowstone on a 900 last week. Replaced Regulator and it didn't fix the problem. Works when cold and then you lose all gauges and lights dim down due to huge decrease in voltage. So...a bad stator doesn't necessarily cause a sled to die although in this case it sure could be the culprit.

I am fighting my issues with my Pro right now so I offer you a good luck wish!
 
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