I
izzni
Well-known member
So as some of you might have heard, there are a couple bolts behind the primary clutch that rub on a coolant line. On my sled one of them actually pokes the coolant line (I've highlighted in red the places):
For better access I removed the front clutch guard. You don't have to, but it made it easier to position the zip ties I used later with it out of the way. The following two pictures identify the four screws that hold it on, besides the bolt that is poking the coolant line:
Next I removed the bolt. 8mm on the motor side of the frame rail, 7mm on the fuse box side of the frame rail. You can get a socket on the 7mm side if you get the fuse box loose and push it up.
I removed the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers once the bolt was almost out. I didn't have the desire to go fishing under the motor for the nut if it had fallen down.
I then put 3/4" wire loom that I got at O'Reily auto parts over the coolant line. I then installed 3 zip ties to keep the wire loom in place:
I wanted to reverse the bolt, but the coolant line on my sled is VERY tight. I settled for not having the end of the bolt protrude through the nylon lock nut so far. To accomplish this I added a couple washers to the bolt before I reinstalled it:
The next picture is with everything put back together. Note that I have the bolt still protruding from the nylon lock nut a bit, since if I didn't the bolt could loosen up.
![2012-01-10_19-48-50_139.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-10_19-48-50_139.jpg)
For better access I removed the front clutch guard. You don't have to, but it made it easier to position the zip ties I used later with it out of the way. The following two pictures identify the four screws that hold it on, besides the bolt that is poking the coolant line:
![2012-01-10_19-49-22_230.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-10_19-49-22_230.jpg)
![2012-01-10_19-49-31_499.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-10_19-49-31_499.jpg)
Next I removed the bolt. 8mm on the motor side of the frame rail, 7mm on the fuse box side of the frame rail. You can get a socket on the 7mm side if you get the fuse box loose and push it up.
![2012-01-10_19-52-28_961.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-10_19-52-28_961.jpg)
![2012-01-10_19-57-52_652.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-10_19-57-52_652.jpg)
I removed the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers once the bolt was almost out. I didn't have the desire to go fishing under the motor for the nut if it had fallen down.
![2012-01-10_19-54-59_628.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-10_19-54-59_628.jpg)
I then put 3/4" wire loom that I got at O'Reily auto parts over the coolant line. I then installed 3 zip ties to keep the wire loom in place:
![2012-01-11_19-04-05_97.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-11_19-04-05_97.jpg)
I wanted to reverse the bolt, but the coolant line on my sled is VERY tight. I settled for not having the end of the bolt protrude through the nylon lock nut so far. To accomplish this I added a couple washers to the bolt before I reinstalled it:
![2012-01-11_19-18-17_233.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-11_19-18-17_233.jpg)
The next picture is with everything put back together. Note that I have the bolt still protruding from the nylon lock nut a bit, since if I didn't the bolt could loosen up.
![2012-01-11_19-23-49_895.jpg](http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/mcda0043/Coolant%20Hose%20Protection/2012-01-11_19-23-49_895.jpg)