100% open wastegate for troubleshooting turbo setup ok?

[akholland]

im trying to figure out if my turbo bog is related to the sled or to the turbo system. I want to try opening the wastegate 100% and disconnecting the bd box. is this a bad idea for a short test run? Wouldn't this eliminate any lag caused by the turbo and make it run somewhat more stock like? What should I expect?

 

[Sledneck26]

By disconnecting the bd box you won't be adding extra
Fuel for boost. Youll see det, and A lean situation. Possibley a lean bog to? I'm not to sure if an open wastegate can eliminate all boost.

Are you running egt's or a/f monitors?

When are you getting a bog? Determinded it's a/f
Ratio and not clutching issues, or even broken reeds.

I would try removing the charge tube and putting some sort of filter on the intake. Just so your naturally aspirated on the intake side and with an ope waste gate and turbo building no boost, it couldn't be muc more restrictive of an exhaust than a stock can. And fuel controller bypassed of course..

 

[hatchers]

who says opening a wastegate builds no boost? its a resrictred bypass of exhaust gases around your turbine wheel, not a shunt around the compelte turbo itself, no is the answer to your question if i understand your question correctly

 

[akholland]

I will try it running it with a uni filter on the tube today and see what happens with and without the bd box. I'm in the process of trying to fix my af innovate xd16 and lc1 transmitter, its not sending a signal so I think I need to send it in.
I only have koso egt for now. I have taken and added fuel all the way around in every setting and it runs best with 3000 0,0,0 4500 -4, -6, 0 psi 0 5 24 at 2000ft.

It has a complete new engine in it with new reeds, stator, everything except ecu, regulator, and harness etc.. Actuator is currently set to minimum boost. fuel pump is stock with boost referenced regulator attached. 85g heavy tip dd weights 142-290 spring. 40 helix with orange spring.

Are you supposed to measure 35mm on the power valves to include the little Catch cylinder shaped thing on the or just measure the cable itself?

 

[Mseven]

you are still going to want to open the wg, and maybe put something on to restrict the intake a bit. If you just take off the charge tube you risk overspeeding the turbo.

 

[jensen]

Weights

Have you tried lighter weights or a slightly lower start angle on the helix.

 

[akholland]

i have tried the 36 46 p bdx helix until it snapped on me. then i installed my straight 40 helix and the problem hasnt changed.

Its an odd problem. I start the sled, hit the gas, and it runs like a raped ape with no bog. I let of the throttle, hit it again, and bog bog bog...
I kill the engine, start it back up, hit the gas and for the first pull it goes like hell. Im so confused.

my right cylinder goes down to 600 or so on the egt while the right one is 800 o 900. This happens consistently when it bogs. one theory was that the injector was bad but when I switch them (left to right and right to let) the low temperature reading didnt switch to the other side as would be indicated by a faulty or sticky injector. I also clicked them on a 12v battery and they sounded healthy. filters on inlet looked clean.

im pulling the turbo off next and going back to stock pipe. Im starting to think this is not a turbo related issue but a sled electrical issue.

 

[mynewuseddoo]

you are still going to want to open the wg, and maybe put something on to restrict the intake a bit. If you just take off the charge tube you risk overspeeding the turbo.

Restrict the discharge side, not the intake side of the compressor.

 

[chevnrev]

While riding my TM1000 to the trailer this past weekend I noticed that my sled was having the same issue. Except on mine the mag side was the one at 900ish while the PTO side was at 600ish. This was probably somewhere between 4500 to 6000 RPMs or so, I can't remember exactly. But when I would get on it it would clean itself out and run well again. I was thinking maybe fouled plugs, but haven't gotten around to checking yet.

 

[akholland]

U pulled the plugs out and checked for spark. They all 4 had really strong spark and all identical. gapped to .018 - .020 ,. even put 2 brand new ones in.

I thought my bog on my m1000 was from a turbo issue but after disconnecting the boondocker box and all electrical associated with the turbo, opening up the wastegate 100%, it still bogs and drops the mag cylinder to 500 degrees flooding it out bogging at 6300.
Doesn't do it after the first grab of the throttle, only after the second or third. kill it and start again and runs good for first grab again, every time. its like the computer is running diagnostics after the first grab on the throttle and realizing something is wrong, then it's flooding the right cylinder to save it?
I have changed the power valve servo, adjusted power valve cables, cleaned valves, unplugged handlebar main plug, swapped ecu, swapped ccu, and injectors, swapped pipe sensor, disconnected boost reference to fuel pump, checked fuel pressure (45lbs), checked throttle safety switch, good spark on all 4 plugs, changed stator, reeds, complete new engine,
im running out of things to change out and my problem is not going away.

Swapping the electrical harness, reverting to oem fuel pump, and removing the turbo completely is next.
Someone told me to check the 4 timing sensors but I'm not sure where those are even at? did i miss anything?

 

[kcdavidak]

check tps settings.also on that 1150 i was talking about it pinched the ring gland once acted same way.piston looked perfect but ring was stuck. have you done a compression test .

 

[akholland]

well i put an entire new engine in it and the problem didnt change so it's nothing engine related. I was also thinking tps but I dont know how to check it? do I have to take it in to the dealer or can i check the tps with a multimeter somehow?

 

[akholland]

If the tps was bad wouldn't it throw the ccu code related to a bad tps? I have no ccu codes.

ok I found out how to test the tps, it's just a ohm reading at 0% and 100% throttle between like 850 and 5000 ohms. I will try it for kicks tonight.

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/z-zl-zr-zrt-tcat-ext/293982-tps-adjustment.html

 

[akholland]

just talked to the cat shop. They said the tps will throw the code on the m1000 if it is bad. They said swap injector plugs and see if it floods the other cylinder. Im betting on a bad wiring harness.

 

[kcdavidak]

tps

I'd still check it not working and out of spec might be two different things.

 

[akholland]

PROBLEM SOLVED!.. sort of maybe?

I had replaced EVERY component on the sled short of the wiring harness in the past three days trying to figure it out swapping with a buddy's identical sled. It finally came down to the harness and I decided it would be easier to try removing the turbo. I had the turbo completely unplugged (electrical wise) with the wastegate 100% open and the boost reference to the fuel pump disconnected. It still did the same thing dropping the cylinder down 400 degrees and leaving the y pipe wet black on that mag side. As soon as I removed the turbo completely and put the stock pipe back on it ran perfect with no hesitation whatsoever. I am totally baffled as to why the turbo itself would cause one cylinder to drop so much temp and not drop both together. The only thing I can think of is that it's the charge box design. The air flow comes into the box from the charge tube in such a manner as to force more air into the pto cylinder than the mag cylinder. Boondocker redesigned their charge boxes to the new style which they call the "torque building intake". It looks to have a more laminar flow into both cylinders and im wondering if it's worth buying. Im going to ride it stock for a while until I can pony up the money for a fuel pressure regulator and get the termination end in the mail for my lc1 afr kit. That should make tuning it easier.
I have been looking at other kits such as the twisted and the push turbos and am wondering why Boondocker doesn't include such components as the larger external Wastegate and the BOV on the intake. It would make sense to me that these two components alone would make tuning and throttle response much better. What do you think? Are these components only necessary at higher boost? im at 5lb

andy

 

[akholland]

btw arctic chat's link i posted above was wrong for their ohm values for checking the tps. Its supposed to be like 700-1800 1750 and 1800 to 800 ish.. +- 20 percent or whatever. I traced the wires back to the ecu plug and stuck my test leads in there. super easy. cat uses a 5volt plug thing and wanted 40 bucks just to check it. I compared the readings to another 09m1000 and they were the same.