09 TRA Clutch ??

[RideGuy]

Anybody use Graphite to Lube the Button's in hopes to lower clutch temp's?

Well this is my first sled with a TRA button style clutch opposed to a roller P85. The sled is a 2009 Summit 163 no graphics. Out of the box I scrubbed the belt and clutch's with scotchbrite and soapy water. Depending on snow RPM's have been 7900-8100 on the Analog/Needle guage. Clicker 3 at 7000ft on Cheveron 94/BRP oil. BRP stinger and everything else stock.

Temperature's are going up and I've been feeling belts on sleds with/without vent kit's. Temp's even with vent kit's are impressive to say the least.... The belt guard is tight and I see why everybody are drilling them. Vent's O'plenty are necessary...... I think up near the steering column/exhaust console side would help vent the upper chamber and get things flowing from the bottom to the top..... The air box makes it impossible on the intake side... unless a guy went to an aftermarket intake but I've yet to be sold on one....

I've noticed the Secondary seems hotter than I'd expect them to be which makes think there is alot of slipage.... Does everybody adjust their deflection with the strings dead even with the top's of the sheaves as per manual or is it recomended to run the belt higher trying to minimize slippage/heat in the secondary....... Not to mention it can't vent off under that clutch cover....

I haven't toasted a belt yet and it appears to wear fine but with spring conditions I'm concerned about wear.......

I'm wondering if a longer stiffer secondary spring might help lower secondary temps.... When I did my project P85-Diamond Drive I was in search of belt life and low temps..... I ended up using the longer orange M1000 spring in my set up and I found what I couldn't find using stiffer short/stock size of springs.....

Anyway's sorry for the book... Just thinking out loud here...... I know it's been beaten to death... But my original question was in regards to the friction generated when the Button's slide.... Is there a Dry lube that may reduce friction heat?? I'm not even sure what a button is made of.... I haven't had a TRA apart yet....

 

[Wyoming T/A]

Anybody use Graphite to Lube the Button's in hopes to lower clutch temp's?

Well this is my first sled with a TRA button style clutch opposed to a roller P85. The sled is a 2009 Summit 163 no graphics. Out of the box I scrubbed the belt and clutch's with scotchbrite and soapy water. Depending on snow RPM's have been 7900-8100 on the Analog/Needle guage. Clicker 3 at 7000ft on Cheveron 94/BRP oil. BRP stinger and everything else stock.

Temperature's are going up and I've been feeling belts on sleds with/without vent kit's. Temp's even with vent kit's are impressive to say the least.... The belt guard is tight and I see why everybody are drilling them. Vent's O'plenty are necessary...... I think up near the steering column/exhaust console side would help vent the upper chamber and get things flowing from the bottom to the top..... The air box makes it impossible on the intake side... unless a guy went to an aftermarket intake but I've yet to be sold on one....

I've noticed the Secondary seems hotter than I'd expect them to be which makes think there is alot of slipage.... Does everybody adjust their deflection with the strings dead even with the top's of the sheaves as per manual or is it recomended to run the belt higher trying to minimize slippage/heat in the secondary....... Not to mention it can't vent off under that clutch cover....

I haven't toasted a belt yet and it appears to wear fine but with spring conditions I'm concerned about wear.......

I'm wondering if a longer stiffer secondary spring might help lower secondary temps.... When I did my project P85-Diamond Drive I was in search of belt life and low temps..... I ended up using the longer orange M1000 spring in my set up and I found what I couldn't find using stiffer short/stock size of springs.....

Anyway's sorry for the book... Just thinking out loud here...... I know it's been beaten to death... But my original question was in regards to the friction generated when the Button's slide.... Is there a Dry lube that may reduce friction heat?? I'm not even sure what a button is made of.... I haven't had a TRA apart yet....

we adjust our belt so you can just see the threads and yet the belt doesnt squeel---we use no lube of any kind, our dealer said NOOOOO---i rode polaris for 27 years and always lubed the clutch but no more---we went to a shockwave helix and run a little less angle and our belts are dooing real good--

 

[maxwellzx]

dont lube the tra clutch.

lubing just attracts particles and makes them stick and increase wear

 

[winter brew]

ditto...NEVER use any type of lube.....the heat is from that dang reverse angle helix, exactly the opposite of what is needed to work on a mountain sled in the deep. Proper setup will get rid of alot of heat and work better on the hills. Stock setup is great for the roads and that's about it.

 

[RideGuy]

A good set up is key no doubt.....

No wonder it generates so much heat.... Mine engages at 4500 rpm....... Low speed cruising at 6000 rpm..... I'd like to lower the engagment rpms...... Primary Spring and Secondary angle/ longer and stiffer spring....

The sled really hooks up when you get across the low angle on the helix to the steep angle.... You can sure feel the up shift when you hit the steeper angle.... I'm kind of warming up to the reverse angle.... I'd just like to get the engagement and low speed operating rpm down in hopes of reducing heat due to friciton.....

The shockwave/Clicker combo does sound good..... I just need to get the temps down.... I don't like taking so many breaks to let the clutch's kewl.... Wow can that primary hold alot of heat... and for a long time.... LOL

Over all at 275 Km's same belt the sled pull's hard and is impressive for a stock sled!!! Turning radius is stellar.....

What about clicker positions?? Does 1 or 5 make the lest amount of heat? or for mountain riding is 1 or 5 more ideal? I'm on 3 right now pulling 7900-8100 on Deep hard Pull's.... On a big lake tonight with snow and air temps down I actually pulled 8400 rpm for the first time ever......

After you log a few rides on these you sure can lay them over.... Just need to have 8" of snow and this is the funnest sled I've ever rode....

I was also told that the motor and clutch's are meant to be aligned under full rpm and that is why the are not in alignment when off and checking alignment..?? Any truth to this??