B
Looking for some contacts or direction for rebuilding my Dragon 800 engine. Spent nearly the whole winter trying to figure out why the check engine light flashing on and motor bogging down.
09 D8 engine rebuild
- Thread starter burleigh
- Start date
Call Pms polaris in Aston Idaho 1-208-652-7735 talk to Shawn he designed and sell's the fix kit for the D800 he will help you in anyway he can he is good and very knowledgable person.
Performane Motor Sports.
Performane Motor Sports.
7
X3!
When you say directions, do you mean a Motor Re-Build How to?
cliff notes version:
1. Drain coolant out
2. Remove the exhaust valves
2. remove exhaust system
3. Disconnect the coolant hoses
4. Remove the head bolts, removed head.
5. If you have not done so yet, remove the y-pipe from the cylinders
6. Remove airbox to access and remove the fuel rail (top 2 injectors)
7. Remove the cylinder mono-block bolts (suck out any coolant that is left before you do this)
8. Remove the monoblock
9. Place a bunch of rags in the the crank to prevent anything from falling in there.
10. Remove circ clips from pistons, only need to remove on on each piston,
11. Remove the wrist pin, pistons and caged bearings.
12. I generally wash the monoblock in some hot soapy water, then I will hone the cylinders, and then wash everything again.
(assuming no cylinder damage of course, if damaged send to US Chrome to get repaired)
13. Put the piston rings in the cylinders, use the piston to level them and check the piston ring gap per the piston manufactures spec with a feeler gauge.
14. Put the rings on the pistons. I also put one circ clip in the piston
15. Pretty much reverse assemble from here. I have heard some people like to put the pistons in the monobock with the rings compressed and then slide them on the rods. I tried that and actually found it easier to put the pistons on the rods first and then slide the mono block over the top.
(I did soak up any remaining coolant in the crank before assembly. I also put some 2-stroke oil in the bottom end and lubed the cylinders during assembly).
that should be it, obviously check your torque specs and double check.
cliff notes version:
1. Drain coolant out
2. Remove the exhaust valves
2. remove exhaust system
3. Disconnect the coolant hoses
4. Remove the head bolts, removed head.
5. If you have not done so yet, remove the y-pipe from the cylinders
6. Remove airbox to access and remove the fuel rail (top 2 injectors)
7. Remove the cylinder mono-block bolts (suck out any coolant that is left before you do this)
8. Remove the monoblock
9. Place a bunch of rags in the the crank to prevent anything from falling in there.
10. Remove circ clips from pistons, only need to remove on on each piston,
11. Remove the wrist pin, pistons and caged bearings.
12. I generally wash the monoblock in some hot soapy water, then I will hone the cylinders, and then wash everything again.
(assuming no cylinder damage of course, if damaged send to US Chrome to get repaired)
13. Put the piston rings in the cylinders, use the piston to level them and check the piston ring gap per the piston manufactures spec with a feeler gauge.
14. Put the rings on the pistons. I also put one circ clip in the piston
15. Pretty much reverse assemble from here. I have heard some people like to put the pistons in the monobock with the rings compressed and then slide them on the rods. I tried that and actually found it easier to put the pistons on the rods first and then slide the mono block over the top.
(I did soak up any remaining coolant in the crank before assembly. I also put some 2-stroke oil in the bottom end and lubed the cylinders during assembly).
that should be it, obviously check your torque specs and double check.
S
the one thing i did when torquing down the cylinder bolts and head bolts was to do 3 passes to bring the bolts to torque specs. didn;t have any leakers when i broke it in
F
the one thing i did when torquing down the cylinder bolts and head bolts was to do 3 passes to bring the bolts to torque specs. didn;t have any leakers when i broke it in
what are the torque spec's for the head?
I think the head is 25 ft lbs and the monoblock is like 42 ft lbs.
Work from the center zig zagging your way out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Work from the center zig zagging your way out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
F
I found the 08 service manual on another thread. I assume it should be the same spec's.
J
X3 On the Mtn Tek kit............
D
My fix
I talked to Fastrax and what they do is send in the cylinders in and have them fitted to what ever pistons you want to put in them. I think this would be an ideal option if your cylinders need to be re-nic'ed anyway.
I put the single ring spi pistons in it and it and it runs great.
I talked to Fastrax and what they do is send in the cylinders in and have them fitted to what ever pistons you want to put in them. I think this would be an ideal option if your cylinders need to be re-nic'ed anyway.
I put the single ring spi pistons in it and it and it runs great.
B
Just heard back from Moto Breck. They say the engin is fine and has good compression. They are checking the Det Sensor. If it is not put in at the right torque it will go off. Also If it is a problem then just disconnect it. I am unsure of this remedy???
Has anyone else had this same type of problem. The det sensor is set off with high vibration so I am also told and thats why it goes into limp mode.
Could it be a reed issue??
Any other ideas. It seems the sensors and electrics are over sensitive.
Has anyone else had this same type of problem. The det sensor is set off with high vibration so I am also told and thats why it goes into limp mode.
Could it be a reed issue??
Any other ideas. It seems the sensors and electrics are over sensitive.
