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08 M8 SLP single Pipe Kit Installation Trouble

J

jnj55024

New member
I am trying to install the single pipe kit from SLP on my 08 M8 and haven't got a clue on how to tighten the lower inner bolts on the Y pipe with the heat shield in place.

I think leaving the stock studs in and not using the allen bolts provided would be a great idea at this point.

Any suggestions?:confused:
 
yeah

I about had a nervous breakdown doing mine last week on my o9. A short allen wrench that fits in the slot of the y-pipe gets them on there good. I finished them off with a slightly bent ball end allen wrench. For some dumb reason now, i'm trying to get the diamond drive out, and its going well. I didn't even know how to change the belt an hour ago!!! I'm not to mechanically inclined on sleds. If I can do it, anyone can. You have to bend the heat shield where it bolts to the frame, and really wrestle it in there.
 
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You have to take the heat shield off. Then grind off some of the short end of an allen wrench and tighten the allen bolts. Some people also use ball ended allen wrenches to tighten them, its a PITA to get them on, but it is possible.
 
I appreciate the input. I guess I'll cut down one of my allen wrenches now.

Thanks for the tips.
 
the instructions say to remove the heat sheild first.
How does one remove the studs?
And what is the problem with using the studs and nuts? hardness?
 
yeah

My studs came out easily with pliers. What are you guys using for exhaust springs? The one on the pipe to the rubber mount is strecthed out two far. The pipe to cans aren't to bad. The wrost ones are the y-pipe to pipe. They barely hook on the pipe, and they don't bend at all.
 
Did one for a buddy last week: tighten two of the stock y pipe nuts against each other on stud. Used 12mm end wrench to remove stud. Before installing y pipe, run a new y pipe bolt in and out of each stud hole to remove old loc-tite. This will make it easier to turn in the hard to reach bolts with y pipe in place. Cut handle on allen wrench down to 2 3/4", other side of wrench, cut it just long enough to seat in bolt head. By hand thread in a stud in each in upper outside hole on each side. RVT your gasket and y pipe. Use the 2 studs to hold y pipe/gasket in place. While you loc tite and finger tighten remaining 6 bolts. Lastly, replace studs with bolts. All can be done with heat shield in place. Short handle on allen wrench will give you more turn per stroke, as the end doesn't hit the y pipe. Good luck! :D
 
the instructions say to remove the heat sheild first.
How does one remove the studs?
And what is the problem with using the studs and nuts? hardness?

From my understanding you cant use the original studs because when you go to tighten them down the nut hits the welds on the y pipe and you cant get the y pipe tight
 
To get the studs out I used two of the stock nuts tightend against each other, but I also heated each stud with a torch for about 30-45 seconds to loosen the locktite before trying to back them out. Worked great. Just be sure not to melt any wires or hoses with the torch!!

I ran a tap through each hole to clean the threads. shot a little brake parts cleaner in each hole and blew out with air hose.

That is where I had to stop for tonight. I'm going to look for a 6MM ratchet wrench and use a short piece of a 6mm allen wrench to tighten the new bolts down. Not sure how one is supposed to torque to 17 ft lbs?? Tight as my fingers can get it will have to be good enough.

Is anybody using locktite on the new bolts? If so, which one?
 
Two questions. First one I believe was just answered but want to clarify. What size allen wrench are the SLP bolts? 6mm? Second if i'm reading you correctly 1rmbndt, I should take a 6mm??? allen and cut the short side shorter so the the long (handle) end is closer to the motor and giving more space and then cut the long handle end to around 2 3/4" so it fits under/between the center of the y-pipe in order to tighten the bottom inside ones? I am 99% sure my wife is conviced she 'needs' to get me the pipe for xmas and my sled is at our camp (where we'll be for xmas) so when I get there I want to ride not wrench so I want to make sure that I bring the necessary stuff to get the job done fast and if a tool needs modified I will do it now.

Thanks
 
To get the studs out I used two of the stock nuts tightend against each other, but I also heated each stud with a torch for about 30-45 seconds to loosen the locktite before trying to back them out. Worked great. Just be sure not to melt any wires or hoses with the torch!!

I ran a tap through each hole to clean the threads. shot a little brake parts cleaner in each hole and blew out with air hose.

That is where I had to stop for tonight. I'm going to look for a 6MM ratchet wrench and use a short piece of a 6mm allen wrench to tighten the new bolts down. Not sure how one is supposed to torque to 17 ft lbs?? Tight as my fingers can get it will have to be good enough.

Is anybody using locktite on the new bolts? If so, which one?


I didn't use loctite and when I asked SLP they said there's no need.

They are hard enough getting in - can't imagine getting them out with loctite!!
 
I didn't use loctite and when I asked SLP they said there's no need.

They are hard enough getting in - can't imagine getting them out with loctite!!

Stock studs have been loctited & come out no problem. I'd rather deal with trying to get them out in the shop, than tight on the MTN. Stock doo's few years back, remember the y-pipe problem? Cheeeep insurance!:)
 
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My studs came out easily with pliers. What are you guys using for exhaust springs? The one on the pipe to the rubber mount is strecthed out two far. The pipe to cans aren't to bad. The wrost ones are the y-pipe to pipe. They barely hook on the pipe, and they don't bend at all.

I double springed everything.

07M8Nov09_v3.jpg
 
I ended up cutting a 1/2" knub off of a 6mm allen wrench and used it in the box end of a 6mm wrench... tedious to say the least but worked alright... hoping to never have to take that Y pipe off.... EVER.
 
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