I bought a 2008 m1000 with boondocker race gas turbo. Runs very good when doing a pull up the hill but it is boggy in the bottom end and into boost and then it works great lots of power. bd numbers are 3000 0 0 0, 4500 -3,-6,0 PSI H 05,17,42. would anyone know how to get the boggies out. thank you.
08 m1000 turbo tuning
- Thread starter 08tbman
- Start date
You need to lower the ful pressure. That will clean up the bottom end and bog.
M
M1000Mod162
Well-known member
use your bd abilitys
Take away fuel in your 3000 and 5000 settings instead of dropping fuel pressure
Take away fuel in your 3000 and 5000 settings instead of dropping fuel pressure
N
never enough snow
Active member
I set mine at 38 psi at idle 09 race gas
ride / tune clinic
If you want to have a good day riding and learn all you need to know about your box and tuning it come see me I will spend the day with you riding and tuning.
http://www.mountainmagicsports.com/extreme_ride_and_tuning
If you want to have a good day riding and learn all you need to know about your box and tuning it come see me I will spend the day with you riding and tuning.
http://www.mountainmagicsports.com/extreme_ride_and_tuning
You are a good dude!!!
A
akholland
Member
I'm having the same issue with the bogging below boost.. Did you ever find a solution? I tried leaning and richening every setting on this bd box and my head hurts..
Is It ok to hear a fluttering sound when you left off the throttle from high boost? Is that bad for the wastegate?
Which Garret Turbo did your m1000 pg bd kit come with?
Has anyone played with their adjustable wastegate actuator? I am a bit new to turbos, but why would you want to increase your minimum boostpressure? what effect does this have? Does it increase lag the later the boost comes on? Why is adjusability an advantage?
Is anyone on here running a turbo between 1000 and 3500' elevation? If so what were your numbers? I am running
3000 -5 -3 -3
4500 -2 -7 3
PSI 0 15 22
with 6lb boost @2000'. and never saw over 1260F running 100ll it seemed to have the best throttle response at higher elevations and higher boost pressures.
I have a bad bog in mid range and I have tuned it to be rideable but you have to feather the throttle a bunch in the midrange to get it to rap out to 7750. The bog is at 6600 ish.. and it wont push over that most of the time. cylinder temps get real low and the left cylinder appears to foul out. It helped a bunch when I leaned out the PSI numbers but didnt get rid of it. I have gone as low as 15 on the hi psi setting and it started to run crappy again when I went that lean. I played with numbers for five hours straight.. The strange part is that no matter what I do or have my fuel numbers at, If I kill the sled and then immediately start it back up, when I grab a handful of throttle it rips like a raped ape for the first grab. Then on the second grab it dogs again. Anyone else have this experience? Why would it run right after starting it?????..
Gary zimmerman in cooper landing told me that the Stator might have went out in it and burned a coil and that I should drill some venting holes in the stator housing after installing a new stator. Has anyone else had this problem?
If I keep it under boost while climing it wont bog out on me. I have had my numbers all over the place playing with it and It's ten times better than when I bought it but it still bogs most of the time.
Has anyone played with the power valve fuel settings in the boondocker box? I believe they open at 6600 and this is where I think i am having the issues. Perhaps my power valve cables are out of whack.. I know their the same length but I didn't check them against the spec. I will check that next and then put my spare motor in it.
It starts and idles fine.. If the reeds were torn up would it act just like a regular piped m1000 with bad reeds would? my turbo is easy to start and idles great so I dont suspect reeds quite yet... but will check them anyways..
When I called boondocker and asked them about my issue, they wanted to know what my DCin/out was and since the sled was 3000' below me in the trailer I had no idea. (no reception at the bottom of turnagain pass). Anyone know what the significance of this is? I believe it means Duty Cycle in and out of the injectors? What kind of numbers means I'm having issues?
How does the oil pump work? Does it use boost pressure to pump it? Should I check it for flow before every ride?
I have a Power Commander 5 with Autotune. Has anyone used that to tune a boondocker turbo? Im goona have to try it. Where should I mount my air fuel sensor? before or after the turbo?
Have people been taking cranks running them at 7750? THis seems WAY to high. I would think 7650 like on my piped 1000 would be safer? Do they just like the high rpms?
I just bought this sled last week and I'm reading every manual and booklet I can get my hands on to figure it out. If anyone knows of some good tuning tutorials and information (links) I am willing to do the research and put the time in. I had no issues tuning my speedworks pipe with my PCV but this thing is kicking my butt.
How does the altitude compensator work in the EBC and should I be messing with it?
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I'm hoping someone else out there is trying to learn too and has some advice..If I can help anyone else on here let me know!
09 M1000 153 powerclaw
BD Turbo
Adjustable Wastegate Actuator
Electronic Boost Controller
Boondocker turbo efi box
Mesh Hood
koso's
Is It ok to hear a fluttering sound when you left off the throttle from high boost? Is that bad for the wastegate?
Which Garret Turbo did your m1000 pg bd kit come with?
Has anyone played with their adjustable wastegate actuator? I am a bit new to turbos, but why would you want to increase your minimum boostpressure? what effect does this have? Does it increase lag the later the boost comes on? Why is adjusability an advantage?
Is anyone on here running a turbo between 1000 and 3500' elevation? If so what were your numbers? I am running
3000 -5 -3 -3
4500 -2 -7 3
PSI 0 15 22
with 6lb boost @2000'. and never saw over 1260F running 100ll it seemed to have the best throttle response at higher elevations and higher boost pressures.
I have a bad bog in mid range and I have tuned it to be rideable but you have to feather the throttle a bunch in the midrange to get it to rap out to 7750. The bog is at 6600 ish.. and it wont push over that most of the time. cylinder temps get real low and the left cylinder appears to foul out. It helped a bunch when I leaned out the PSI numbers but didnt get rid of it. I have gone as low as 15 on the hi psi setting and it started to run crappy again when I went that lean. I played with numbers for five hours straight.. The strange part is that no matter what I do or have my fuel numbers at, If I kill the sled and then immediately start it back up, when I grab a handful of throttle it rips like a raped ape for the first grab. Then on the second grab it dogs again. Anyone else have this experience? Why would it run right after starting it?????..
Gary zimmerman in cooper landing told me that the Stator might have went out in it and burned a coil and that I should drill some venting holes in the stator housing after installing a new stator. Has anyone else had this problem?
If I keep it under boost while climing it wont bog out on me. I have had my numbers all over the place playing with it and It's ten times better than when I bought it but it still bogs most of the time.
Has anyone played with the power valve fuel settings in the boondocker box? I believe they open at 6600 and this is where I think i am having the issues. Perhaps my power valve cables are out of whack.. I know their the same length but I didn't check them against the spec. I will check that next and then put my spare motor in it.
It starts and idles fine.. If the reeds were torn up would it act just like a regular piped m1000 with bad reeds would? my turbo is easy to start and idles great so I dont suspect reeds quite yet... but will check them anyways..
When I called boondocker and asked them about my issue, they wanted to know what my DCin/out was and since the sled was 3000' below me in the trailer I had no idea. (no reception at the bottom of turnagain pass). Anyone know what the significance of this is? I believe it means Duty Cycle in and out of the injectors? What kind of numbers means I'm having issues?
How does the oil pump work? Does it use boost pressure to pump it? Should I check it for flow before every ride?
I have a Power Commander 5 with Autotune. Has anyone used that to tune a boondocker turbo? Im goona have to try it. Where should I mount my air fuel sensor? before or after the turbo?
Have people been taking cranks running them at 7750? THis seems WAY to high. I would think 7650 like on my piped 1000 would be safer? Do they just like the high rpms?
I just bought this sled last week and I'm reading every manual and booklet I can get my hands on to figure it out. If anyone knows of some good tuning tutorials and information (links) I am willing to do the research and put the time in. I had no issues tuning my speedworks pipe with my PCV but this thing is kicking my butt.
How does the altitude compensator work in the EBC and should I be messing with it?
Sorry for the lengthy post, but I'm hoping someone else out there is trying to learn too and has some advice..If I can help anyone else on here let me know!
09 M1000 153 powerclaw
BD Turbo
Adjustable Wastegate Actuator
Electronic Boost Controller
Boondocker turbo efi box
Mesh Hood
koso's
holy crap man!!! All good questions though...
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