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08 M1000... most challenging yet! Seems to be in limp mode, no codes, though...?????

H

HardKor

Member
Lifetime Membership
I need help from all the "M" brains out there!
I've been working on a buddy's m1000 for too long, now.
It won't rev past 6000 rpm's and seems to be in limp mode. It runs fine up to that point, then acts as though there's a governor.
Here is a list of what I've done so far...

Checked power valves, pinned them open... still no top end.
I have replaced:
coils and wires
stator and pick up (upper), lower tested fine and I didn't have another...
harness
ecu
ccu
servo motor
pipe temp sensor
gone through handlebar wiring and (disconnected)
Hood wiring and (disconnected)
Tail light wiring disconnected
ingnition switch disconnected
reverse motor disconnected
drained fuel, cleaned tank and pick-ups
blown through the gas cap
Changed to a D&D can (ran great for about 10 minutes, then won't rev past 6g... wait about 5-10 minutes, run it again runs good then seems like a switch gets thrown and does the same thing...
pipe and intake seem to be restriction free
Fuel pressure is at 42-46#
I swapped out reverse motors... I don't get the ccu code in reverse now, because of the missing button.
I checked all the pins in the connectors and they seem fine...

So the things I HAVE NOT addressed:
TPS
Coolant and intake sensors (Thx M8magic&mystery... I will check those...)

ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER THOUGHTS OR IDEAS????
Thx.
Kor
 
If you unhook the belt, and rev it up with blocks under it

will it still only go to 6,000 without a load on it???
 
just to eliminate some issues

fresh plugs and if that doesn't get it check compression.
 
WOW.

Are you sure you are not in BC and its not an 09 M1k? I had what sounds like the exact same issues with mine midway through the season. It ended up ending my sledding career on the sourest of notes as I have now moved back to australia to live. Lol.

I had an 09 M1K, stock with only an MBRP can added. Same sort of things started happening, started to bog down a bit end of the 2012/2013 season. changed the plugs out and it worked for a day then bogged again at the end of the day.

Had the SLP air intake mod added as the stock one aparently was collapsing on itself and choking the motor. This worked great for 4 rides this last season (2013/2014) then took it out on a deeeeeep deep day (7ft in 7 days they were boasting, and I'd almost believe that). She ran fine for about 15 mins then bogged right down. wouldnt go over 4-5000rpms. Limped back to trailer.

Took it into mechanic and the poor guy spent the next 4 weeks working on it including an engine rebuild, new fuel pump, switched ecu's, checked clutches, went through everything from top to bottom he said, even got out an AC gold star mechanic who hooked it up to his computer and wasnt able to resolve the issue. 8( They were thinking stator or electrical issue as it is already onto its 2nd OEM stator and already blew a cheap aftermarket one. So we were thinking an electrical issue/short circuit of some sort was affecting the stator's however it ran within the acceptable test values.

All that seemed to help a little bit I took it for a ride and could only get it to rev to 6200-6300. In the end we decided to part it out as no one would buy an m1k running the way it was.

Only thing I can think of is that my mate rode it the time before it started acting up and he blew a belt on the trail. the AC tech could see that in his computer as it showed up the max RPM of the motor was 10000+ rpms at some point in time. Someone once told me that when the motor revs high like this it can twist the crank?? and throw off timing or something? I dunno, just seems like it was running like a dream and then after the belt went it ran like crap.
 
Fishtank...
I would have tought the crank spun out of phase when the belt blew... a big hammer andall your problems could have been fixed!
I wish mine would be that! There's a totally different motor in this one, that was tested in another sled and ran great!
???????????????????
 
So just from reading the above posts, this is a completely different motor, dressed with the same components as before correct? And it seems you have swapped out most of the components have give these sleds trouble. I do have a couple of questions.

1. You simply unplugged the tail light?? I swear, on my buddies M8, when someone plowed into the back of him on the trail, it took his tail light out. His sled ran like crap, couldn't get over 6000, and unplugging the harness would not fix the problem. Until we fixed the light, and got everything back to normal, the sled would not run properly.

2. You said when you swapped out cans, it got better? Like it had all its power back, then all gone just like that? When you swapped cans, did you mess with anything else during the process that could have done this? Jiggled a loose connection, etc.
 
Also, have you checked the ground on the right side of the sled on the steering hoop coming from the main harness?? Make sure it's not only tight, but the connector is in good shape as well as the wire. Maybe when you swapped cans, somehow it was making good contact for a bit then lost it again. Def. seems electrical related if it comes and goes like that.
 
I'm waiting to hear back frm my buddy...
I added another ground (chassis to motor), and I installed another reverse motor, from my son's sled. I checked all the pins in all the connectors.

I had a short in my (1200) tail light wiring, and when I disconnected it, the problem went away. I was getting an 18 code... (I don't have a servo motor of pv cables!)
 
Last edited:
check the wires and pins in each plugin on the main engine harness.. I know a guy who had the same issue with an older efi sled, the problem was in the plastic plug itself. Water had gotten in and shorted ( burnt, melted, the separate pin holders) and when dry ran fine but on the hill it would act up again.
 
Here's a tricky wrench to throw into the works!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My buddy tested it... still ran like crap.
so... we swapped reverse motors back, I plugged in the oil sending unit wire again (unplugged to test). We kept getting the oil light... i switched the plug and still got it... I shut it down and restarted it. No oil light.

NOW>>>

The belt was off, so we cobbed it open, and the darn thing hit 8 grand!
I marked the primary with a sharpie, and after the test ride my buddy put on it, the belt had been riding up in the primary right about where she needed it to be...!??????????????????????
Diamond drive fluid is clean and nothing came out on a magnet.
I put a spare secondary on and we're gonna get it on the snow again...
Keep those ideas coming!
I REALLY appreciate the different perspectives!
Kor
 
Does anybody know how to test the 4 pin TPS? I know how to test the 3 pin throttle position sensors with a resistance test... but the 4 pin TPS has me stumped.
Thanks!!!
 
Thanks! I kept looking at mine and seeing 4 wires coming from the tps... (that 4th wire... tps from the Booney box:face-icon-small-ton)

I'll try to get his sled asap and test the tps and post results!!!!
 
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