08 D8 with 300 miles on update, died, ecu may be smoked?

[sledhed]

Looking for info so I can go to my dealer with as much info as possible. Approx. 300 miles since the update was installed.

Last weekend, I noticed a couple times where the gauge went blank. Also noticed a few times where it was blinking low voltage indicator as it idled.

This weekend, got up to the bowls, took a couple good runs, went to make another, and the sled cut out, but came back when I let off throttle. Turned out before I got too committed to the climb luckily. Gauge was intermittent, I killed the engine, restarted it, seemed to run fine, start riding it, cuts out again, gauge not working any more no matter what I try. Idles fine. Next time I try to ride it dies, and I smell a funny smoke, finally figured it smells like electronics smoking. It started a couple more times but died again as if you turned it off.

Ended up towing it back to the truck and riding my buddy's spare sled.

Tonight I pulled the exhaust valves and plugs and saw some things I am not sure what to think of. I am thinking of asking the dealer to pull the top end. I think I will run a compression test on it too although compression "feels" fine.

Both piston tops are shiny clean looking in the plug hole but you can't see a lot from there.

Looking in the exhaust valve ports, the mag side piston looks to have a little pitting on top, and the side of the piston does not look like a piston with 300 miles on it. Broke it in with Polaris Blue as recommended by Polaris. Just this trip I put gold ves oil back in it.

PTO piston has a wierd whitish blemish on the mag side of the piston above the top ring, looks almost like oxidation if I didn't know better. Rings almost look like there is some metal dust in there with the ring, does not look clean, and again the piston does not look like a 300 miler.

I tried to take a couple pics which I will post but it is hard to see, although the white blemish on the mag side of the pto piston shows fairly well (looks like a reflection though). It appears to have a little scuffing on the skirt too but not a lot.

Any ideas? Should I ask the dealer to pull it down and call me when they got it apart so we can look it over together?

Sorry for the quality of the pics, hard to get a good closeup of what I am looking at.

 

[skibreeze]

If you smelled smoke, I'd pull the ECU and look at the backside to see if it is burnt. It's under the plastic belt holder.

 

[deepdiver]

I just had a cooked ECU also. We were lucky and were on the way back..only a few minutes from the parking lot. Bubbled the "potting compound" on the back of the ECU..tow out job

Polaris is covering the ECU but is saying that they wont warranty cover the V-regulator as it passes its test.

They will have a change of heart soon!

 

[sledhed]

I will pull the ECU tonight and see what it looks like.

I know this has been covered in 800 Polaris threads before, but is there anything specific I should be looking for with the pistons? Or should I just run a comp test? I really think the pistons look suspect for 300 miles, plus the season is rapidly coming to an end and I want to make sure if it is going to blow that it blows under warranty...

 

[sledhed]

Well, it isn't all bubbled up, but it stinks, and one end leaked some goo out of it... and of course the sled won't run so that is a bad sign...

I am wondering about the pistons though - should I pull my own top end if dealer won't do it? At least that way I can get some clear pics and compare and measure the piston to what it should be.

 

[skibreeze]

I'd pull the exhaust valves to see if the pistons are scored. If they are scored bad, your block will likely need to be re nic'd as well. I have pulled mine down several times. It is a PITA, but easily accomplished by a decent do it yourselfer in a few hours.

Remove;
Airbox, pipe, y pipe (PITA), EV's, drain coolant, T stat housing, pull fuel rail (carefully, keep track of all 6 rubber seals), unplug coolant sensor, deto sensor, plug wires, head bolts, block bolts.

That covers most of the teardown.

I'm sending a set of pistons to Swain tech to get ceramic coated to give them extra protection from seizing.

 

[sledhed]

I'd pull the exhaust valves to see if the pistons are scored. If they are scored bad, your block will likely need to be re nic'd as well. I have pulled mine down several times. It is a PITA, but easily accomplished by a decent do it yourselfer in a few hours.

Remove;
Airbox, pipe, y pipe (PITA), EV's, drain coolant, T stat housing, pull fuel rail (carefully, keep track of all 6 rubber seals), unplug coolant sensor, deto sensor, plug wires, head bolts, block bolts.

That covers most of the teardown.

I'm sending a set of pistons to Swain tech to get ceramic coated to give them extra protection from seizing.

I did pull the exhaust valves, see the pics in post 1, hard to judge on the scuffing, there might be a little on the pto side, mag side top of piston seemed to show a little detonation. I put the electronics back on as well as exhaust valves, they wanted the whole sled, so I am taking it in tomorrow with fingers crossed. If they won't warranty it I guess I get to buy a VR and ECM... I will run a compression test and then pull the top end myself though if they deny warranty, and take some pics of the top end and get a better idea of the internal condition of the engine.

Always like to see the inside of what I am running anyway.

Need any gaskets or is it all o-rings and seals?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I did pull the exhaust valves, see the pics in post 1, hard to judge on the scuffing, there might be a little on the pto side, mag side top of piston seemed to show a little detonation. I put the electronics back on as well as exhaust valves, they wanted the whole sled, so I am taking it in tomorrow with fingers crossed. If they won't warranty it I guess I get to buy a VR and ECM... I will run a compression test and then pull the top end myself though if they deny warranty, and take some pics of the top end and get a better idea of the internal condition of the engine.

Always like to see the inside of what I am running anyway.

Need any gaskets or is it all o-rings and seals?

they should warranty..the 10 udate carries a warranty till june of 10..and polaris has been good about goodwilling VR's and ECM's...

 

[suitcase]

For sure it sounds like the ECU, as far as the pistons my be a result of the ECU, but for sure if you have the update get it into your dealer. So the one yr. warrenty can take care of any problems. I had the same thing on my 08, after the update and polaris pick up the tab, all but a 50 dollar deductable.

 

[catmanm8]

suitcase69 was that your 08 or 09??

 

[shabs]

i wouldnt worry about the scuff man, i had a couple on my mag side piston around 200 miles in when i put my slp exhaust on and recently i had it apart to put my bmp head on and i noticed they were gone. The new pistons have a coating on them and it scratches easy then it eventually burnt away/rubbed away is what i was told by the dealer(1500miles ago). Have them look at the pistons tho if it looks like detination. I would also suggest buying extra warranty if you can lol, mine has already paid for itself already with smoked ecu and voltage reg and new clutch. I dont think i would own one of these sleds knowing all the problems they have without, it i'm glad i still have 2 winters left on mine. good luck

 

[skibreeze]

i wouldnt worry about the scuff man, i had a couple on my mag side piston around 200 miles in when i put my slp exhaust on and recently i had it apart to put my bmp head on and i noticed they were gone. The new pistons have a coating on them and it scratches easy then it eventually burnt away/rubbed away is what i was told by the dealer(1500miles ago). Have them look at the pistons tho if it looks like detination. I would also suggest buying extra warranty if you can lol, mine has already paid for itself already with smoked ecu and voltage reg and new clutch. I dont think i would own one of these sleds knowing all the problems they have without, it i'm glad i still have 2 winters left on mine. good luck

How can you say to not worry about a scuff when you haven't even seen it?

This is also a piston with about 200 miles on it, not only is it scored, it damaged the cylinder.

 

[catmanm8]

I guess one would need to know if there was a true scuff or just the GRAFAL coating wearing off.....the GRAFAL wearing off is normal....scuff not so much..

 

[shabs]

How can you say to not worry about a scuff when you haven't even seen it?

This is also a piston with about 200 miles on it, not only is it scored, it damaged the cylinder.

haha true true but there theres a difference between a scratch and a scuff, im sure he would of seen that by looking thru the exhaust valve port. your piston is clearly f**ked lol. Take the head off and take a look at the cylinders is what i would do to see if there is scoring, and be able to see way better. Good point man. Take er into the dealer its broken assed anyways and have them deal with it.

 

[sledhed]

they should warranty..the 10 udate carries a warranty till june of 10..and polaris has been good about goodwilling VR's and ECM's...

For sure it sounds like the ECU, as far as the pistons my be a result of the ECU, but for sure if you have the update get it into your dealer. So the one yr. warrenty can take care of any problems. I had the same thing on my 08, after the update and polaris pick up the tab, all but a 50 dollar deductable.

Polaris covered the VR and ECM with the $50 deduct for parts, did not cover the labor or shop supplies to the tune of about $40, so about $90 out of pocket. No ECM in stock so dealer was good enough to take one off a showroom 2010 and flash it to the latest flash of a week or two ago (supposedly only needed for low altitude but it is the current flash Polaris has / EPA approved).

I guess one would need to know if there was a true scuff or just the GRAFAL coating wearing off.....the GRAFAL wearing off is normal....scuff not so much..

haha true true but there theres a difference between a scratch and a scuff, im sure he would of seen that by looking thru the exhaust valve port. your piston is clearly f**ked lol. Take the head off and take a look at the cylinders is what i would do to see if there is scoring, and be able to see way better. Good point man. Take er into the dealer its broken assed anyways and have them deal with it.

I am thinking the scuffing is just the coating then. Nothing like Skibreeze's pic thats for sure! I forgot that the updated pistons were coated. Dealer mechanic said they ran a compression test and it was fine and runs great. I think I am still going to run my own compression test, and taking the head off to get a better view of the top of the piston may be in order too after my next ride.

Glad they were willing to borrow an ECM to get me back on the snow. Before it melts. Otherwise the fix would have had to wait until next week at the earliest. We have lost 20" of snow depth in the last 7 days according to the snowtel... only 65 inches to go...

Now - can anyone tell me what tools I need to put an SLP pipe on? Haven't done the pipe on this sled yet, I hear the y-pipe bolts are a bugger.

 

[shabs]

Now - can anyone tell me what tools I need to put an SLP pipe on? Haven't done the pipe on this sled yet, I hear the y-pipe bolts are a bugger.[/QUOTE]

glad to hear everything worked out for ya so you can get back riding, i wish we still had some snow here its been gone for over a month now.

Dont quote me on this but i think the bolts on y-pipe were 3/8 allen head, i would use the ones with the rounded end cause a few are a pain in the a** to get at not that much room for fingers, you need a drill and bit(cant remember what size for the extra pipe support spring holder thinger), rivot gun, i used ultra copper sealant on the pipe to can joint. Its not bad it was just a pain cause my electric start and bracket was in the way of everything so if you have it take it completly out it will save you alot of grief.

 

[sledhed]

glad to hear everything worked out for ya so you can get back riding, i wish we still had some snow here its been gone for over a month now.

Dont quote me on this but i think the bolts on y-pipe were 3/8 allen head, i would use the ones with the rounded end cause a few are a pain in the a** to get at not that much room for fingers, you need a drill and bit(cant remember what size for the extra pipe support spring holder thinger), rivot gun, i used ultra copper sealant on the pipe to can joint. Its not bad it was just a pain cause my electric start and bracket was in the way of everything so if you have it take it completly out it will save you alot of grief.

Thanks. Me too. I think this sled had an SLP pipe on it before I bought it, which they pulled off. Hood wiring was rereouted (which I rerouted back before taking it in to the dealer), and there is an SLP intake horn on it (which I switched with my wife's stocker before taking it in too, just in case they asked for underhood pics). So I am thinking that the extra pipe support spring holder may be in there already but I will have to check. No electric start for me so that helps.

3/8? I thought they went metric on this engine. At least the exhaust valve bolts were 10mm I believe. Maybe I will stop by Harbor Freight on the way home and get a set with the ball on the end if they have them...

 

[skibreeze]

They are metric, I forget if they are 5 or 5.5 or 6 mm though. I'd get 2 sets, one ball and the other regular. I then cut the short end shorter, it will help with getting in the tight space under the y pipe and also for the 2 bolts on the upper/inner part.

 

[catmanm8]

Sledhed,
I would only pull the head off at last resort.....if you pull the exhaust valves and y-pipe off you can see enough...if you pull the head, you will waste o-rings and gaskets....risk the chance of coolant leaks, or air lock the cooling system....
trust your dealer...I am sure if he thought it needed pistons, he would have did it...warranty makes money for a shop...besides, he did good for you so far....

 

[skibreeze]

Sledhed,
I would only pull the head off at last resort.....if you pull the exhaust valves and y-pipe off you can see enough...if you pull the head, you will waste o-rings and gaskets....risk the chance of coolant leaks, or air lock the cooling system....
trust your dealer...I am sure if he thought it needed pistons, he would have did it...warranty makes money for a shop...besides, he did good for you so far....

Pulling the EV's will give you the best view for checking for scored pistons. There is no need to pull the y pipe. As far as the head, there are no gaskets involved and the o rings will seal just fine over and over. The only reason to pull the head is to check wash and that can be done to a certain extent with a mini led light inserted into the spark plug hole.