08 700 rmk won't pull revs and engine cuts out

[Kraven]

MID-RANGE CUT-OUT

That part throttle "cut-out" could very well be the mid-range "LEAN" condition.

My 2007 D7 used to do that between 5000-6000 R.P.M., you'd swear I hit the kill switch for about 2 seconds, oddly enough it did NOT do this in below zero temps (when you would think it's even leaner???) it must be that the factory fuel program "over-compensates at those temps????? Dealer insisted it needed the fuel/vapor seperator and new t'stat, did both of those and made no improvement what-so-ever.

Ended up installing a PC-3 from DYNOTECH Jim w/his mapping, 7-10% RICHER in that mid-range, problem solved.

Hope this helps

I also have an intermittent issue that does a "kill switch" type effect. It only happens at part throttle and only after riding for several hours. Once it cools off completely all symptoms are gone. It runs fine at full throttle and max rpm's do not drop - just does the weird part throttle cut out routine.

The dealer replaced the stator at the end of last year but mild syptoms started to re-appear on the first ride afterwards (again, not until several hours into a ride). The cut out got really bad on last ride and I took it into the dealer again. They claim they checked the stator, TPS, ECU, etc., and no problems anywhere.

I am taking it to the snow this weekend along with the dealer. If it acts up again supposedly they will be able to diagnose it on the spot. Will post any progress.

 

[440dart]

if any of you guys come up with a solution please pm me with what you found. ive taken my sled to the dealer a bunch they couldnt find a thing wrong with it now my sled has been sitting for 2 months as i have no intrest in rideing a poor performing sled good luck

 

[IceCap]

Get rid of the HPS can. One of our riding group runs a 07 700 dragon.

He ran the HPS can on the stock pipe and it ran OKAY but was down on power.

Then later he ran a SLP single with SLP can and it ran really good.

Then he tried the SLP single pipe and HPS can and when the sled was cooled down a bit it would pull really good for one pull.
As soon as the pipe and can built up heat he lost a lot of performance the sled couldn't pull 7000 RPM.
He went back to the SLP can with the SLP pipe and immediately pulled 8200 all day long.

 

[RMK-King]

Now I'm having a similar issue, my sled is only pulling 7600rpm,with 7850 spikes, when it should be pulling 8250 with higher spikes. I have checked exhaust valves for sticking, spark plug boots, ohm reading good on exhaust valve system.

My 09 does this at 2000',never have been able to get it to pull over 8000RPMs consistantly. Even dropped 8 grams of weight with no change. Recently put a turbo on and same problem. Runs strong but I know it would be alot better if I could get it to spin 8200. When it was stock and I went to 9000' it would pull over 8000 Rpm no problem,its like the ecu puts a rev limiter on it at lower elevations.

 

[mrclueless]

Power Commander on Dragon 700?

Anyone have experience with a power commander fixing the the mid throttle issues on an '08 Dragon 700?? My intermittent "hit the kill switch" type issues are worse in warm weather, only happen after +2 hrs of riding time. I have run out of things to try - throttle kill switch, tail light wiring, grip heaters, etc. all ok. On last occurrence the plugs were light brown on one side and light colored orange on the other. Didn't look lean but I have not seen the orange shade before.

 

[Kraven]

Anyone have experience with a power commander fixing the the mid throttle issues on an '08 Dragon 700?? My intermittent "hit the kill switch" type issues are worse in warm weather, only happen after +2 hrs of riding time. I have run out of things to try - throttle kill switch, tail light wiring, grip heaters, etc. all ok. On last occurrence the plugs were light brown on one side and light colored orange on the other. Didn't look lean but I have not seen the orange shade before.

I have a 2007 D7, had the 5000 R.P.M.-6000 R.P.M. dreaded lean condition. It was so prevalent, even though it happened quite often, I found myself looking at the kill switch to see if I accidentally hit it.

My plugs always came out BLACK/BLACK.

Coincidentally, in below ZERO temps I didn't have this problem, it's like the factory E.C.U. over-richens for the cold temp.

Installed a PC-3, 7% or so RICHER in that range and problem cured.

LEANER on top end with the PC-3, plugs come out a nice medium-dark cardboard brown, I could probably go a little LEANER, we'll see.

The only part of the symptoms that you describe that are inconsistent with mine is that "doesn't happen till after 2 hours of ridin' part" My sled would not do it cold, but after it warmed up 20 minutes or so, it would.

 

[lognomore]

Fuel pressure

I've been having the same issue with cutting out also. It would run really well for a short period of time and then start cutting out. If I stopped for a little bit to cool off, it ran good again for a short period of time. Replaced what we thought was the stator and VR going bad again, no difference. Dealer thought maybe the TPS was going out, it tested good, but I replaced it anyways. That didn't solve the problem. Today I took my fuel pressure gauge with me and rode until it started to cut out again. This time I hooked up the gauge, starting out the pressure would stay at 60 pounds, part throttle and full throttle. After riding for around ten to fifteen minutes anything over half throttle would send the fuel pressure to below 10 pounds. If I stop for fifteen, twenty minutes it would run full pressure again for a short period of time, pressure again would drop below 10 pounds at anything over half throttle. At this time I'm not sure that a fuel filter would act like this, I 'm leaning toward a fuel pump. All at the same time watching the volt gauge on the panel and it was always showing good voltage with no fluctuations. It definitely was leaning out as the plugs would show, but if I stayed below a third throttle they were OK. I'm thinking that some of the issues with lean out on some of the machines might be of the fuel pump not working right?? I'm done rambling, I just want my sled to run right!! Any opinions..

 

[ryan_ruhr24]

I've been having the same issue with cutting out also. It would run really well for a short period of time and then start cutting out. If I stopped for a little bit to cool off, it ran good again for a short period of time. Replaced what we thought was the stator and VR going bad again, no difference. Dealer thought maybe the TPS was going out, it tested good, but I replaced it anyways. That didn't solve the problem. Today I took my fuel pressure gauge with me and rode until it started to cut out again. This time I hooked up the gauge, starting out the pressure would stay at 60 pounds, part throttle and full throttle. After riding for around ten to fifteen minutes anything over half throttle would send the fuel pressure to below 10 pounds. If I stop for fifteen, twenty minutes it would run full pressure again for a short period of time, pressure again would drop below 10 pounds at anything over half throttle. At this time I'm not sure that a fuel filter would act like this, I 'm leaning toward a fuel pump. All at the same time watching the volt gauge on the panel and it was always showing good voltage with no fluctuations. It definitely was leaning out as the plugs would show, but if I stayed below a third throttle they were OK. I'm thinking that some of the issues with lean out on some of the machines might be of the fuel pump not working right?? I'm done rambling, I just want my sled to run right!! Any opinions..

Did you find your problem with the cut out mine does the same thing can't find the problem. D7 700 2008

 

[subseaaddicted]

Just had a similar problem with my wifes 08 700

Would only rev to about 7000 but would run what I thought was good on the bottom end. Spent weeks trouble shooting everything, topend wasn't very good so I rebuilt it ......Voltage regulator replaced.....on and on.

Finally got to the bottom of it....... super stupid problem which cured everything.

Unscrew your plug caps from the wires cut off about 1/2" and rescrew them back on.

Both of mine had more then 80% of the wires broken 1/4" in from the plug cap, you could actually pull the broken wires out.

rescrewed on the Plug caps and she runs better then it ever has.....!!!!

 

[rockin rmk]

Mine used to cut out dealer could not find anything wrong. made my own tps tool and found the tps was bad. the tool the dealer uses is crap. it takes a good volt meter to find the bad spot in the tps. replaced and setup the tps. works fine now. After a few rides the sled would not rev up to 8100 rpms could only get 7000 rpms also did not sound right never cut out just no power. found it was a small hole in the exhaust valve bellows and worn out exhaust valve springs.

 

[sledneck_03]

My 09 does this at 2000',never have been able to get it to pull over 8000RPMs consistantly. Even dropped 8 grams of weight with no change. Recently put a turbo on and same problem. Runs strong but I know it would be alot better if I could get it to spin 8200. When it was stock and I went to 9000' it would pull over 8000 Rpm no problem,its like the ecu puts a rev limiter on it at lower elevations.

Have the same issue at 1600ft, had 58s in it and ran 7900-8100, put 64s in it did the same. Ive had this low peak rpm issue for 3 years. Sled still runs strong so not worried, hp chart shows same hp at 7900 as 8100 so no big deal

 

[IQ685]

Had similar issues with a friend's 2010' 600 RMK and dealer finally tracked it down to the exhaust sensor.

Would only pull 7000 - 7200 rpms.

End of year fix so will see what happens first trip out in a couple months.

 

[Sledder Jorg]

Had similar issues with a friend's 2010' 600 RMK and dealer finally tracked it down to the exhaust sensor.

Would only pull 7000 - 7200 rpms.

End of year fix so will see what happens first trip out in a couple months.

Have identical sled, 2010 600 RMK, same "lean killswitch condition" after getting off the throttle then back on right around 5-6000rpm that you all are referring to I believe.. tried everything... VR, capacitor, TPS re-setting, ECU reflash from Polaris, Ohm-tested plug boots & coils, sucked out old fuel/added all fresh 91, new plugs (which my clutch side is prefect color, exhaust side is constantly rich).

In the process of trying 3 last things... putting stock reeds back in (have 45 miles on latest & greatest V-force 3 reeds), gunna switch EGT sensor from a 2007 600HO, and cut back my plug wires 1/2"... sorry for digging up an old thread everyone, but this seems to be a common issue that I'm sure most people want to have resolution to. Will post results.

Jorg

 

[Sledder Jorg]

Have identical sled, 2010 600 RMK, same "lean killswitch condition" after getting off the throttle then back on right around 5-6000rpm that you all are referring to I believe.. tried everything... VR, capacitor, TPS re-setting, ECU reflash from Polaris, Ohm-tested plug boots & coils, sucked out old fuel/added all fresh 91, new plugs (which my clutch side is prefect color, exhaust side is constantly rich).

In the process of trying 3 last things... putting stock reeds back in (have 45 miles on latest & greatest V-force 3 reeds), gunna switch EGT sensor from a 2007 600HO, and cut back my plug wires 1/2"... sorry for digging up an old thread everyone, but this seems to be a common issue that I'm sure most people want to have resolution to. Will post results.

Jorg

So my issue, cracked reed pedals. Brand new reeds had huge corner chunk missing on 2 of the pedals on one side. V-Force sure left a bitter taste in my mouth as this has caused my hair to turn grey for over a month and countless hours wrenching and troubleshooting. Put stocks back in and it's never ran stronger!