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08 700 RMK BURNDOWN...EVERYONE CHECK THIS PART!

As the title says my 08 700 RMK blew up one the 27th of january out in Island Park ID. Got it home and tore it down discovered that the top exhaust side started to erode. Scored the whole piston, and cylinder. replaced both pistons and mag side cylinder. got it all back together brought it to my dealer cause we both didn't know what caused it to burn down so i brought it in and had the codes read, they adjusted my throttle to take some slack out of it, checked the TPS added a little bit of coolant checked all my torques and told me to check my Intake boots (part # 1203864 its number 3 in the parts break down attached). After about 2.5 hours of labor they called me said I can take it back home.. all in the same day. NO CHARGE TO ME. I got it home and took the air box, and throttle bodies out and then the boots themselves and yep they were ripped. Got the new part today and will be all back together tomorrow.

Now for the main point of this thread is EVERYONE should check their intake boots in between the throttle bodies and the reed valves. (once again Part # 1203864) It has been known to tear and the engine doesnt know its getting more air in the system and will not adjust the fuel for the extra air and lean out and burn down.

Last of all I would like to especially thank my dealer - Wheels Inc. and all their staff for being there for me every step of the way.

CLEAN.Gif.jpg
 
Same thing happened on my d8. Massive air leak, took out the entire motor. I bought a billet throttle body adapter.....no more torn boots.
 
Make sure that your airbox rubber strap is intact.. also.... with the side panel removed... check to see that the hood is lowering smoothly onto the airbox and not hammering it down when it closes... that also is pretty hard on the TB boots.

Mine was out of alignment and would tweak the TB boots when it was closed till I adjusted it a bit.
 
Wheels is a great dealer to work with. Great guys that work there.

I can look it up myself but thought I'd ask if those boots are the same as the 800 ones?
 
Thanks, I'm going to check mine tonight. I have had a hard time keeping my airbox boot on tight. So I'm wondering if something is wrong. Also what all has to come off to get this intake manifold boot off? fuel rail, intake coolant line ect?
 
I've had it happen too except it was under boost so it didn't lean the motor out. It just wasted my boost out the boot. If you start having erratic idle or high idle you need to check this boot. You almost have to take your airbox and throttle bodies off to inspect it cause the clamps make it hard to really check the boot good. You need to pull the upper fuel rail to get at the top bolts of the boot if it needs to be replaced but not to just check it.

Throttle body boot.jpg
 
Wow- that tear is more than I thought it would be! Great picture was the tear on the to or the bottom of yours?
 
It was on the bottom. I fought and fought with idle problems until I figured it out. Without the turbo it would have surely burned down but the positive intake pressure on boost kept it from leaning out.
 
I have a brand new 700cfi polaris boot if anyone needs one, I always kept a spare with my turbo sled but never had to use it.
 
question for major-dirty , where did you purchase the billet t/b adapter?
is it a bolt in piece with no drama?
 
carb boots

Good thread same applies to carb models my 600 only had 1700 miles and I had to replace both sides but no burn down.
 
As for the same as the 800 I cannot say. But i do know that polaris changed the part number so that leads me to believe that they changed the way they are manufactured. I personally think that polaris should put out a service bulletin on them. But here are some pictures.

DSCN0628.jpg DSCN0612.jpg DSCN0611.jpg DSCN0600.jpg DSCN0602.jpg DSCN0607.jpg
 
Billet throttle body adapter

I bought mine from turboboyz (www.turboboyz.com), cost was $180. Twisted turbo also has one, but is a little more $$$. They have an internal O-ring that seals around the outside of the throttle body. There is also a couple of extra holes to safety wire the throttlebody to the adapter just to make sure they can't wiggle out. I haven't installed yet, still waiting for pistons. Boondockers also has their own adapter, but it is just a piece of aluminum plate that goes over the stock adapter, sandwiching the rubber boots to the mounting plate. Way better than stock, but the boots can still tear. I'll try to post pics when everything is back together.
 
I just changed mine a few days ago. Never had any major issues but with my airbox out I could tell that the rubber was worn and had a lot of play. Dealer said there was an updated part number, and those boots seem much stiffer. Glad I got mine replaced before they failed. Major PITA though..
 
quick update on mine, before I replaced the adapter, my sled would start up from cold at about 2400 rpm, and slowly come down to about 1800 once it warmed up. With the new boots, it starts around 1400 and slowly creeps up to about 1600 while it warms up. The rubber on mine didn't even seem that worn, just some spots around the bolts.

Make sure your pipe clamps are good and tight, and that the throttle body is pushed right into the boots, you don't want that **** rattling loose!
 
Does anyone know the upgraded part number? Is it the 1203864 part number shown above? Thanks.
 
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