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What are some cheaper mods to do on a 08 dragon 700? I was wondering what some of the guys on here have been doing for a little extra power for these things. Anything welcome. Thanks
08 700 mods?
- Thread starter Bkinz
- Start date
W
Trade it in for an XP.
B
haha I said I was looking for more power Jay, I wasn't asking to get stuck.
Next?
Next?
not really much you can do. i had an slp pipe NOT worth the money i put on slp twin HUGE power gain but exspensive, best bang for the buck was a track swap to a exstreme the polaris track is a pos. and clutching mine always seem to run better 200rpms over what peak power was at just my exsperience
- Additional SLP filtered intake vents or make your own
- SLP Air Horn
- SLP Pipe and Can
- Back in '08, Monster decals were rumoured to add 10 hp.....
- SLP Air Horn
- SLP Pipe and Can
- Back in '08, Monster decals were rumoured to add 10 hp.....
One of the guys that rides with us has a 08 with the 163 the shop here told him to just put on the can. Pipe does not make that big of a difference. After he put it on there was a noticable diff. Track would be a good upgrade also or better yet a turbo LOL depends on how much you want to spend. Have fun good luck they are good machines. Jim
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- Back in '08, Monster decals were rumoured to add 10 hp.....
Ya, I heard that same rumor to.
Ya, I wasn't going to put the pipe on. Just seemed like to much money for nothing really gained. The can will go on, but what brand? I want something that is louder than stock, so everyone can here me coming.
T
SLP single pipe, HPS can, Carl's clutch kit, SLP venting, SLP air in take, gear one tooth down. Pull the rope and have a GOOD TIME!!!
B
I think I might just go with the HPS can and carls clutching.
T
That's a good start. Heavier rear springs help too
I have a 2007 D-7, 3700 trouble free miles, my bud has the identical sled, 2500 trouble-free miles
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS
PC III from Jim @ DYNOTECH, $365.00 w/MAPPING INCLUDED (www.dynotechresearch.com) (585) 993-2777 I'm @ 5-10% LEANER on top, RICHER in the mid-range, that dreaded 5000 r.p.m. flat spot is GONE. The 2008 models were supposedly 5% RICHER than the 2007's so you may be able to go leaner, but that's your call. After the install of the PC III, it's the first time my plugs had any color on 'em other than black.
SLP push arm (part # 23-63) , installs on the MAG side, (2) holes to drill, 20 minute installation time
ALMOST FREE MODS
I checked the engine belt/alignment and center to center, (c/c was fine) offset alignment (engine crooked) mine and my bud's were WAY off, removed the engine and slotted the MAG side engine bracket an unbelieveable 1/4" to 3/8" to get it straight. And yes the tools I used are good and straight, I actually triple checked them plus used Slp and a GENUINE GOLD PLATED POLARIS tools, same end result. Other guys on H.C.S. reported similar problems.
Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance with a new belt, set it at .010" to .015" (mine was .070" from the factory)
Lightly sand (w/180 grit) your clutches perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down with lacquer thinner.
Wash/scrub your new belt w/soap and water and let dry, sounds weird but it removes the mold release compound that would otherwise get smeared all over your brand new clutches.
Run your chain a little looser, get it to where it touches the back of the chain case by pushing on it.
Oil pump setting, mine was 37:1 ratio from the factory, I adjusted the 10mm nuts down by the oil pump (Yeah a P.I.T.A. ) 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns and it's @ 57:1 for the last 1200 miles. Picture of oil pump posted below, small horizontal mark stamped on arm (3:00 positon) should line up with short horizontal mark on the red dot protruding out from the case AS A STARTING POINT.
DEBATEABLE
I installed the SLP big horn air kit + (4) flo-rites, didn't notice any gain.
WASTE OF $$$$$$ AND YOUR TIME
I did the V-force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, NOT worth the $$$$$$$ and installation time.
PIPES AND DYNO TESTS
DYNOTECH JIM tested (xc8 on H.C.S.) 2008 DRAGON 700 on New Year's day, tried the SLP pipe, minimal gain ONCE THE FUEL CONTROLLER WAS OPTIMIZED FOR EACH PIPE SET-UP, they re-installed the stock pipe and the aftermarket pipe was up for sale.
Hope this helps
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So what is the PC III? what does it do? I think the guy who had mine before me must of aligned the clutches or something. because I can pull my dad on the hills and my uncle on his 800 rev even in a drag race, and he has a 151 compared to my 163. Either that or Polaris just rocks, i think both.
S
Well thats not good to hear. The wife got a 08' 700 this summer and that was one of the first things she bought.. a SLP pipe. Everyone at the time thought it had some good pick up.
Eventually would like to get it ported too. Figured it would need the pipe eventually to go with the porting. I didnt really want her going to twins.
J
that is a good way to break chains, or strip gears leaving yourself high and dry in the mountains. proper chain tension is generally speaking about finger tight, backed off half a turn from that point. have seen multilple sleds get towed back and have been on a few rescue missions myself from guys running their chains too loose. the rest of your reccomendations sound good though
PC III , it's made by DYNOTUNE, it's a fuel controller, plugs into your stock wire harness and attaches w/velcro strips onto top of your clutch cover or side of the air box, takes 20 minutes to install. it's approx 3" x 4" in size 1" or so thick.
Installing it itself, does ZERO, but now you can adjust the fuel by hooking up your computer to it, add fuel, or subtract fuel.
Jim @ DYNOTECH has the correct programs with these to where you just plug 'em in and you're done. You can alter it from there should you change your mind later.
As mentioned earlier, best mod I've done to my sled.
As far as offset alignment goes, it takes a minute to check, wouldn't hurt to check it.
J
brad,
i'll get ya hooked up with all the vents you need, as well as the can. we can do some custom clutching this winter for ya and make sure you can embarass dad even more
i'll get ya hooked up with all the vents you need, as well as the can. we can do some custom clutching this winter for ya and make sure you can embarass dad even more
B
brad,
i'll get ya hooked up with all the vents you need, as well as the can. we can do some custom clutching this winter for ya and make sure you can embarass dad even more
Ok, sounds good. I was wondering when you were going to pipe in.
that is a good way to break chains, or strip gears leaving yourself high and dry in the mountains. proper chain tension is generally speaking about finger tight, backed off half a turn from that point. have seen multilple sleds get towed back and have been on a few rescue missions myself from guys running their chains too loose. the rest of your reccomendations sound good though
On the bold, true story February 2002.
Took my brand new flatlander 2002 EDGE-X 800 (w/proper chain tension BTW) and was out late @ night South of West Yellowstone halfway to Island Park if memory serves me correctly, broke the bolt holding the bottom gear on, that took out the tensioner and I was free wheeling there. Towed it w/my bud's sled 7-8 miles to some gas station where this gal from Yellowstone Taxi Service picked up my buds and took them to our truck and trailer.
So even w/everything set "perfect" you still end up walkin' sometimes.
From where I'm setting the tension I don't think it's that much looser that where you're at, I'll bet approx 1/2 turn (perhaps slightly more) on the adjuster difference???? So what's a half turn or so. lol
BTW, what's your cell # so I know who to call next time we're in the neighborhood and have a breakdown late @ night.??? lol
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Here's a couple more ideas for ya:
1) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, all they do is hold heat in the motor and cause you to lose performance by delaying the opening of the exhaust valves, so now it will be like the exhaust valve set-ups on the older 2001-2005 models.
2) Locate the 1/4" rubber coolant line coming off the p.t.o. head and going into the throttle bodies to heat 'em up. Install a simple 1/4" shutoff (from the hardware store) on this line.The threads in the head are 1/4" pipe thread. The Ski-Doo's come from the factory w/this shut-off and recommend turning
it on only in "snowy conditions"
P
The Slp Air horn is cheap ($45) and will gain you a few horse and it will be more responsive. Gearing down helps A LOT and isn't overly expensive either. Don't buy a pipe, they really don't help much. I'm running an HPS can and love it, but I can't say that it actually gained any power.