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07 800r power loss

First ride on new top end today. Sled burned down in Feb. Bought RKT pistons, millennium tech jugs, went through clutches and cleaned. Cleaned carbs. Did comp test before and after (PERFECT). Won't pull rpm's. Barely makes 7500 on clicker 6
 
Sounds like you have a rave valve issue, take the black plastic caps off, and watch the valves move. there are three positions. at 7500 they should be all the way up. if they dont open all the way you will never see over 7500.
 
Thanks, did that on the hill yesterday. I checked everything I could think of. Pulled the carbs, drained the bowls, pulled the rave caps off and rapped it out, popped all the way out, I have yet to recheck compression. It starts easy, Idles perfect, no miss, stumble at any throttle position or in and out of the throttle. My thoughts are maybe I didn't look at the primary bushing enough. The clutch just doesn't look like it want to shift out very far but I attributed this to loss of power. Thinking that the lack of power cant shift it out but maybe no amount of power can shift out a binding clutch.
 
here is the bummer part. I live in WA and I'm in CO visiting my buddy. He drove out in Feb to ride our old stomping ground as he used to live Just down the rode from me. We were at bearpaw and the sled burned down 2.2 miles form the trailer. I agreed to rebuild it (piece of cake but the budget didnt permit a new crank and line boring the case. I had suggested a new skidoo block but not in the budget either. Im the mech. and have all the tools back home including clutch tools, comp tester, dial indicater, etc. My friend has minimal tools so its not easy to tear it down. I have a theory. The clutches were never apart since the updates were done back in 07 with less than 500 miles on it. It burned down at 2200. I think that maybe the clutch bushing was worn a certain way relative to the crank and since maybe there is some runout. I definately put it back on in a different position than I took it off that if there is a wobble in the crank it's causing it to bind up. Let me know what you think.
 
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Side note, This is the second time I've rode the Snowies and I forgot how fantastic the riding is here. I think I'll have to drive out with my own sled again in jan or feb.
 
If the runout is excessive it will drop RPM. Best to find out before it leaves a guy stranded or gets MORE expensive. If the clutch bushings are bad (also a strong possibility) then they just need to be replaced with updated parts.....but I doubt that would cause THAT much RPM drop....more just a little inconsistancy and accelerate wear on the rest of the primary. Then there is the secondary bushing....another quick wearing item good for 4-500 miles. The good news is it's ALL easily fixed.
 
Thanks Winterbrew, I am on the same page and cant understand why it would cause that much drop in performance with just worn clutch parts. I think we will run and pick up a comp tester and then maybe run to Felkers and see if they can pull the clutch off for us and have a look. I hate not having my own tools on hand. I checked comp on it at home after 8 full warm up and overnight cool down cycles and it was perfect 150 both sides at my house, 600' elevation. Maybe after running it under load yesterday something happened. This just kills me after doing dozens of top ends and no issues whatsoever and then this happens. The funky thing is it my buddy says it worked great last year in January but then he loaned it to some friends and never rode it again until Feb when it burned down in WA 2.2 miles from the truck. Hard to say having not personally rode it in three years.
 
Sounds like you have a rave valve issue, take the black plastic caps off, and watch the valves move. there are three positions. at 7500 they should be all the way up. if they dont open all the way you will never see over 7500.


I would bet that the jetting is WAY fat.. this will cause those issues...

You should have 450's MAX in that sled..

Next bet would be just a worn out TRA 7.. that clutch will cause all sorts of running issues .

BUT.. check the jets 1st
 
I would bet that the jetting is WAY fat.. this will cause those issues...

You should have 450's MAX in that sled..

Next bet would be just a worn out TRA 7.. that clutch will cause all sorts of running issues .

BUT.. check the jets 1st


Concure, if the valves are opening without a load, check jetting then clutch bushings.
 
One of the few things I hate about the REVs is that you need a bore scope to check piston wash. (Another tool I have at home) The plugs look great after 20 sec wot pull. I would say it could use two sizes less. I would think 420's would be good. Today we got a comp tester from harbor freight, comp is perfect. We double checked the power valve opening again, perfect. I will look and see what jets are in it tomorrow and try to get hold of a puller and a dial indicator.
 
you dont need a puller, tip the sled on its side, take out the clutch bolt, fill hole with water, put some teflon tape on clutch bolt threads, when you screw the clutch bolt into the clutch it will hydro it off.
 
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