Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

06 Adeniline 800 clutching

S

Sasksummit

Member
Well looking for some input on clutching for my sled.
I have run stock clutching until last trip always worked good just looking for a little more. Always ran on clicker 4 at 6000-8000'
So here is what I have secondary is stock. I have a purple green in primary it is 160/260 stock is 160/230. I have no weight at all in it. I have Fett Bros 2 mm oversized rollers in it. Stock helix. I had to run on clicker 6 at same altitude. It would pull 8000RPM and better track speed like about 48 MPH. But could not hold it would pull down on long climbes or when i hit a bump? Also dropped the gearing to 19/47.
Will DJs helix fix this?
Thanks
 
Last edited:
Look into that or Big John at Sledhead Racing, he is good with this yellow stuff. In my opinion its hard to make a one size fits all clutch kit (DJ's even though it seems to work for most people) and I would rather work with someone like Big John who taylors the kit to you and your sled and your riding style.
 
All this great help and still nobody knows what size track you are running! Thats kind of a big part of clutching and assuming you're running 9-tooth drivers.
 
I'm with winter brew then, go with the 160-290 and possibly a 42 Helix with a violet spring
 
Mine was up and down on the RPM some also. Changed to 160-290 primary. Left in the 44 helix and stock spring. 19/45 gears 10 tooth driver 2"track. Works great.

I bought and installed Joe's kit. I did'nt really like the way it engaged. It would jump in on engagement and launch you right at the tree (or rock) you were trying to inch around. Took the kit out and sold it.
Joe is a real stand up guy and told me later that he would have sent me a different spring to help engagement at no charge. I am sure with a little fine tuning he would have gotten the way I liked it.
In the mean time I installed the 160-290 spring and it worked so good I just left things alone after that.

Pretty cheap fix to change the spring. Change one thing at a time. To many changes as once and it becomes hard to pinpoint your problems or fixes.
 
Maybe I am misunderstanding but it can't pull the spring i have now if i go stiffer it will have a harder time right? I do have bigger rollers in it could this be part of the issue?
 
The stiffer spring will give you a little more RPM. Your larger rollers are heavier and reduce RPM....they also put the arm in a position that has less leverage. Stock rollers will work better for the hills and deep.
 
Stiffer spring in Primary will help keep it from up shifting so fast. This is why your RPM goes up and down while climbing over whoop de doos.

It up shifts to fast and your engine doesn't have the power to pull the higher ratio from primary to secondary and the RPM's drop. When your RPM's drop the primary starts to open up some and the belt rides lower in the sheeve and then the RPM comes back up, until you go over another whoop and it starts all over again. Stiffer primary will keep the belt lower in the primary longer and will help hold the RPM steady while climbing.

Like I said 160-290 worked wonders for mine. Cheap fix.
 
Well that helps a bit so the rollers must be giving me grief. With my stock setup I never had trouble now it won't hold. I was also running 20/45 gearing before. Guess i changed to many things at once.
Sent BigJohn an email I think he has a fix for me.
 
dj s kit for 06 rev

I have DJ' s kit in my 06 159" rev. The kit works perfect holds RPM reduces belt heat and will pull your arms off.
 
Good to know
Just waiting to hear back from BigJohn then i will have to do something thinking of heading out in a couple weeks again. Want to have it ready by then..
 
Premium Features



Back
Top