So I was riding my snowmobile and it kept shutting off randomly but would start right back up. It kept fouling plugs. About 4 - 6 plugs a ride. It fouled out a plug and I changed it and I started it up and idled and went to take off and it stalled out and it will not start back up. And it starts up once every 70 pulls for a half a second. Doesn't start on starting fluid. I have the tank off already.
05 polaris fusion 900 stopped running
- Thread starter snipehero
- Start date
check stator resistance, capacitor discharge time and the 3 wires going to tps.I wouldn't be surprised to see the stator shot due to flywheel separation.
Do you know whether you had fuel pressure? when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Do you have compression?
Do you know whether you had fuel pressure? when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Do you have compression?
How exactly do I check the stator? I do have fuel pressure and the filter is clear. I blew through it no restrictions.
See posts 8 & 11.
For the stator you need a meter capable of reading resistance.
For the capacitor you need a meter capable of reading voltage and a 12 volt battery.
All connections are in front of the tank (2 black and 1 white connector for stator) and 1 2 pin flat trailer connector for the capacitor). The capacitor is mounted on the left side inside the cubby hole in front of the tank on the PTO side.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261604&highlight=brake+light
For the stator you need a meter capable of reading resistance.
For the capacitor you need a meter capable of reading voltage and a 12 volt battery.
All connections are in front of the tank (2 black and 1 white connector for stator) and 1 2 pin flat trailer connector for the capacitor). The capacitor is mounted on the left side inside the cubby hole in front of the tank on the PTO side.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261604&highlight=brake+light
To check the TPS pigtail, pull gently but firmly on each of the 3 wires going to the connector.
If I have to replace the stator I heard I should go with a 2006 stator. The plugs looks different though
I think you can just order the 2005 components and the pn's have been updated so you get the latest and greatest. This is definitely applicable to the motor mounts and the piston;not 100% certain on the stator (but I have ordered the 2005 pn in the past when I replaced a couple on different sleds).
There also exists a rebuild option (you can use the search to learn more about it). At the time I replaced my stator I considered it but the price was very similar to buying new so that's the way I went.
There also exists a rebuild option (you can use the search to learn more about it). At the time I replaced my stator I considered it but the price was very similar to buying new so that's the way I went.
A lot of guys are saving themselves the money and repairing the stators themselves. This works pretty well keeping in mind you know how to solder. They are striping the wires back that are breaking and soldering them back to the stator and applying a high temp epoxy coating to the solder points.
I say if you know how to solder then give it a whirl!!!
^Agree with this 100% if you have a problem outside the winding....The winding is an entirely different story...
I have repaired non-winding stator wires and it turns out as good as new. I have replaced my stator almost every time when I had winding issues. Once many years ago I rewound my dirtbike stator/magneto....
I pulled the recoil off and found like a little pice if what looked like tin foil
Pull the flywheel and look inside...the only thing in there that looks like tinfoil is wall of the inner ring itself....unless you got something in there through the timing port.
I have to do that tomorrow I dont have a fly wheel puller
This is the stator. I didn't see anything wrong with it
Yep...hard to tell by just looking unless it is obviously burnt or something (which they rarely are)....check the wires coming off it (lower left of stator) and look to see if the insulation looks cut in any way (this would happen from the flywheel inner ring).
Now that you have the flywheel off, look inside it: any holes in the inside wall (this is where the tinfoil stuff might come from); put your hand inside and open it such that you are touching in a few locations and then try to pull it out or rock it back and forth (does it move? are there any gaps where it meets the outer edge or inside edge that would indicate it is separating?)
You can potentially check the stator right from there by probing the stator contacts directly on the stator...not sure I would recommend this though as there is an electrical isolation epoxy coating on them....otherwise you need to remove the tank to access the plug pins.
Now that you have the flywheel off, look inside it: any holes in the inside wall (this is where the tinfoil stuff might come from); put your hand inside and open it such that you are touching in a few locations and then try to pull it out or rock it back and forth (does it move? are there any gaps where it meets the outer edge or inside edge that would indicate it is separating?)
You can potentially check the stator right from there by probing the stator contacts directly on the stator...not sure I would recommend this though as there is an electrical isolation epoxy coating on them....otherwise you need to remove the tank to access the plug pins.
I searched for a pic of a flywheel inner ring separation but couldn't find one but the following pictures should do...I don't think the pic with the magnets showing is a 900 flywheel but it will suffice.
Notice that one picture you can see the magnets on the inside and the other you can't (it's smooth and shiny), the smooth shiny part comes lose and slides out (this is known as inner ring separation).
Notice that one picture you can see the magnets on the inside and the other you can't (it's smooth and shiny), the smooth shiny part comes lose and slides out (this is known as inner ring separation).
So I figured it out. It was the cdi. I bought a new one. Plugged it in and it has spark. Only problem is that the new one has injector color red. Mine on it right now has injector color blue. What does that mean? Cam I run the new one or what do I have to do?
Good to hear you on track for recovery....
I'm not entirely sure how it affects operation (on time, voltage level, etc...) but you need a matched set. I've heard the dealer can flash the evi (never done this myself) or you will need marching blue injectors.
Maybe someone that knows will chime in about the significance of the matched set.
I'm not entirely sure how it affects operation (on time, voltage level, etc...) but you need a matched set. I've heard the dealer can flash the evi (never done this myself) or you will need marching blue injectors.
Maybe someone that knows will chime in about the significance of the matched set.
