we finally had a super big storm dump alot of powder and finally got to go out first time this season. well this was the second ride on this sled since i have owned it. last feb i was on a ride with the family and blew a belt in the moutains of course. Borrowed dads to get back to the pickup. ok so then i was told by my brother that i needed slp's motor stabilizers so got them both put in and a new belt. just got it off the trailer and headed up the trail i goosed it and it spitted and sputtered then without hesitation took off. it was 3 feet of powder and every time i went to ask more it would spit and sputter. like it was fouling plugs right. well, i replaced the plugs half way up the trail and it seemed to be spitten worse then it started popping. ok so knowing i couldnt ride without conatantly getting stuck i parked it and watched and rode other peoples sleds. when it came time to come out. I couldn't start it. we took out the plugs and there was no spark at all. I don't know where to start to fix this problem any help at all would be a blessing..... Thank you!
05 polaris 900 with no spark help please!
- Thread starter jnar1485
- Start date
Check out my thread " she died on the trail today" check stator first. Theres a link with a youtube video that shows how to check your stator and theres stator specs.
I had this EXACT same problem with my 900 right now... I'll update you if I figure anything out.
-Nolan
-Nolan
start testing your stators...
bruce...take it back!!!
nolan..good luck bro..and send me some pics of your hoopty already...
bruce...take it back!!!
nolan..good luck bro..and send me some pics of your hoopty already...
thanks for the bad post rating sean, i was just kidding i have wayyyyyy too much into her to stop now
lol..i figured since i cant slap you for saying such a bad thing (selling your sled) that a thumbs down would do, lol...sorry man..
Stator test
Resistance between coils is .13 ohms +15% and there should be no continuity betweeen any yellow to ground. If the stator is infact grounded out there is a chance it took out the regulator or the ecu...
Resistance between coils is .13 ohms +15% and there should be no continuity betweeen any yellow to ground. If the stator is infact grounded out there is a chance it took out the regulator or the ecu...
Stator
I would almost bet a 100 bucks it is your stator mine went out same thing no spark it is not fun to replace you have to fish and pull the wire harness from it all the way back to the ECU. Your ECU and Reg is most likly fine. The only sign mine gave of going out was when it was really cold I had to pull and pull on it to get it to start and it had weak spark till I tugged a number of times on it.
I would almost bet a 100 bucks it is your stator mine went out same thing no spark it is not fun to replace you have to fish and pull the wire harness from it all the way back to the ECU. Your ECU and Reg is most likly fine. The only sign mine gave of going out was when it was really cold I had to pull and pull on it to get it to start and it had weak spark till I tugged a number of times on it.
Stator. I was told by the dealer a couple years ago that flywheel was upgraded also. That the bonding agent of the magnets was changed due to a delamination issue. However, Mountainhorse can't verify this. It wouldn't suprise me though as the skidoo RT 1000 had the same exact problem in 2005 and in 06 they were updated.
The 2 05's in my group both had bad flywheels that took out stators.
One little thing that may help would be to re-route the coolant overflow hose so that coolant could not leak or drip onto the top of the motor where the timing hole is. Antifreeze will strip this bonding agent off if it gets in there. We have all just taped this top hole closed but coolant could still get in thru the lower flywheel/stator cooling shrouds.
The 2 05's in my group both had bad flywheels that took out stators.
One little thing that may help would be to re-route the coolant overflow hose so that coolant could not leak or drip onto the top of the motor where the timing hole is. Antifreeze will strip this bonding agent off if it gets in there. We have all just taped this top hole closed but coolant could still get in thru the lower flywheel/stator cooling shrouds.
M
MATCO
Member
I had the same problem with my 05 and after replacing the stator and flywheel the service manual said that the ecu was bad. with my technical backround I found it hard to believe that the ecu was bad and that there was not any tests to verify proper operation.
So after several hours of diagnosis I found that the ecu wiring harness was burned inside the connector. from both sides of the connector it looked fine no discoloration, pin tension was ok, no burning smell at all. I found that wires were intermittently shorting between each other causing the ecu to lose power. after breaking open the connector i found all the connections were melted together and burned.
Check resistance between pins with all the connections off. I have a extra stator if yours is bad. also check pin tension.
So after several hours of diagnosis I found that the ecu wiring harness was burned inside the connector. from both sides of the connector it looked fine no discoloration, pin tension was ok, no burning smell at all. I found that wires were intermittently shorting between each other causing the ecu to lose power. after breaking open the connector i found all the connections were melted together and burned.
Check resistance between pins with all the connections off. I have a extra stator if yours is bad. also check pin tension.
