05 M7 Clutch Mod--HELP!!

[Ski-Laxn]

When I installed mine there was no change.

 

[73GOLIATH]

hi
also forgot to tell you about a seconday kit use rk tek or bmp they will let you use a torsion spring in the seconday so it is adjustable and you can get alot better shifting

 

[DonoBBD]

If I just go with a new 10.4 clutch instead of maching mine will I still have to adjust shims behind the clutch?

Yes. I have been cutting .060 off and cutting .060 off the back side of the clutch then having the splines cut deeper too. IF you need to move the secondary in to far you can ramp the inner splines onto the gear splines. This can make the secondary a tard to get off. This mod of cutting the back side of the secondary is a must on the turbo sleds to keep a belt on it for 09.

Keep moving the secondary in till you have .030 between your fixed sheave in the primary. Run the track in the air a bit shut the sled off then check. Recheck after belt break in.

Don.

 

[Barrett]

If I just go with a new 10.4 clutch instead of maching mine will I still have to adjust shims behind the clutch?

No, the 10.4 should be aligned to the cat alignment bar.
Cat has a new alignment bar with less offset(1.509" IIRC), I beleive this bar should be used on all DD sleds, even though they only list a few applications. the original alignment bar has 1.655" offset(way too much).
you only need to remove additional shims from behind the clutch if you machine the sheaves.
If you use the new align bar(1.509) on either the cut clutch, or 10.4, dont remove any extra shims, set offset to the bar.

 

[DonoBBD]

No, the 10.4 should be aligned to the cat alignment bar.
Cat has a new alignment bar with less offset(1.509" IIRC), I beleive this bar should be used on all DD sleds, even though they only list a few applications. the original alignment bar has 1.655" offset(way too much).
you only need to remove additional shims from behind the clutch if you machine the sheaves.
If you use the new align bar(1.509) on either the cut clutch, or 10.4, dont remove any extra shims, set offset to the bar.

I never use a bar and with the DDrive never will. The bar is for the average bear. A softer belt needs more off set than a harder one from the rubber band effect. Funny thing was with the 05 M the farther you moved the secondary in the faster the sled went. You want to.... after break in of the belt... have the deflection set so the track will creep at idle and keep moving the secondary in till you can slide in a .030 feeler gauge between the belt and the fixed sheave. This is the best off set you can have. I check it once a week. I would like to see the bar set the off set correct with a worn belt.

I know cat has it wrong and will re right the book on this. Just ask any flat lander with a turbo from last year if they have their original belt? The fix was to mill room off the back of the secondary where the shim seat so they could get the secondary in more. Funny how the turbo's alignment bar was off too and there is two of them as well..... Hmmm.

Don.

 

[wart]

Excellent guys...all great info and thanks everybody for the help. I will get started and try to get this all figured out. Dono I think I know what you're saying and I'll try to tune with your method. Keep this post handy and I'll let ya know how it goes.