05 king cat clutch good or bad need opionions

[redbarchetta]

I have a 05 kingcat and heard that the stock clutch was pretty sluggish especially on backshift I would not know this because I have never done any clutching on this sled. I was wanting to put clutch kit or whole new clutch but wanted some opinions on what to go with all your help would greatly be appreciated thanks.

 

[diggerdown]

Where did you hear they were sluggish? The DD secondarys are but not the older style like you have. They come with a 55/53 helix, which is a little slow on the back-shift. Most guys are running straight helixs' with anything from a 49* to a 53*. Red/white spring in the middle. I have a 53/51 that I like. You must not have run the sled yet or sluggish would not have been a term you would have used.

 

[redbarchetta]

So in your opinion I would just be wasting money to buy say a team clutch or rkt clutch kit for my king cat, just need to change helix and spring, I am really new to this clutch thing.

 

[Double A]

Depends on your elevation I suppose. Check into a torque arm for it. Keeps the engine from moving so much while under heavy clutch load (acceleration). Clutches work better. SLP or Speedwerx sell them.

 

[diggerdown]

The spring is fine but the helix is a little much. If you're running the horns you will something like a 51* helix and put the spring in the middle hole. You may also want to drop the primary to 66 or 67 gr. weights. If you are less than 200lbs. and have the Attk20 track you will be pretty good as it is. Just go out and try it out before you spend too much on changes. If you do long steep climbs, drop to a 49 helix. The lower you go with the helix, the slower you pick up speed but the quicker it will back-shift.

 

[sledder1]

The stock springs in the 05' King cat are titanium. They are a little soft and therefore a little sluggish. If you put a yellow/white in the primary and a red/white in the secondary middle hole, you'll be much happier. Also I would cut the weights down to 65 from 69 depending on you rpms. All you have to do is grind a little off of the flat backside of the weight, but do it evenly. Do you have pipes or any other mods? The whole point of clutching is to get your motor running at peak power and holding it there no matter what your doing. Remember that your secondary is the slave clutch. Alot of people just tighten the secondary spring to make it backshift quicker, but then the primary won't shift out all the way and you top end suffers. A great way to check is to take a sharpie and mark lines from the center of the clutch(both primary and secondary) to the out side edge. The belt will wear away the marks were it is riding. If after a long flat drag across a meadow the marks are almost gone you know that your clutches are shifting out all the way.

 

[Arcticatdan]

be sure to check the engine alignment also. Most were bad.

 

[sledder1]

I haven't see a King cat where the alignment was right. The problem there is that to correct it, you have to take out the engine and grind the mounts out so you can correct this. We did this on one and didn't find that it did much but take alot of time. I have an 05 King cat with twin pipes, reeds, air box mods, and the challenger extreme 162. I run 62.5 weight with a yellow/white spring in the primary, and a 48 straight cut helix with red/white spring secondary. I have had great luck with this setup and great belt life without changing the belt alignment. Obviously if the alignment is way off something has to be done, but with the small amount that most of the KK were off I think that it may be a waste of time. Spend the time playing with the spring rates and primary weights. Also check the rollers on the secondary as they tend to be a little soft and get flat spots wore in them. Another thing to check is the inner and outer bushings in the secondary. They also wear fairly quickly. The torque arm is also a great addition.

 

[redbarchetta]

My kingcat has boyesen reeds, k&n filters, slp single pipe and silencer, rkt head, and the 162 extreme track. I have stock springs,weights, and helix. I only run about 7800-7900 rpm's on the flat and drops to about 7600-7700 in the deep snow, at an elevation of about 9000'. I plan on installing a torque arm to stabilize the engine I have heard that it is a must with the 900 twin.

 

[moffatt]

what does the torque arm do hold the engine or what

 

[Meatman]

the 900 is suck a torquey motor that it actually shifts a bit when under a heavy load. the torque arm stops the engine from moving thus keepin the clutches aligned better.