04 modded, need some opinions.

[2k4_8]

I found what I think is a decent deal on a clean sled at a local dealership. A little background on the sled first though. 2004 1m 900. They are asking 2987 online, was 35xx.

The good?: It's apparently been bored out to a 1010 (the jugs still say 863 iirc). It has the front dump mod, slp twins, slp air box, lots of frogzskin venting, what I think is an m series set of handlebars, rapid reaction secondary, simmons flexi-skis, rkt high comp head, and a ported track that looks to be near new.

The bad: It's lost the oil injection, they cut the top off of the bottle for it so it's going to be premix. It also has a minor crack in the windshield.

It appears to be well maintained though, but the fact that I know hot sleds can be tempermental at times has me somewhat concerned. This is my first personal sled although I have been around them all of my life, so it's a bit intimidating. Just kind of wanted you guys' opinions on this overall set up so that I know what to expect.

Thanks, Robert


Edit: Also, it's green, so if you know of this sled at rexburg motorsports as far as history etc. please let me know, thanks!

 

[Rixster]

So, did they do a oil injection delete kit or just tell you to preix cause the bottle is cut? If they didnt not do the pump delete kit and install a grease zerk on the water pump shaft then you are going to be in trouble fast.

 

[2k4_8]

Can you elaborate on that a bit? Just so I know what the potential problems could be, whether or not I can fix it, and what I should look for on the sled please? He just said that I have to premix, that it had a mod motor and that's how it was set up...

Edit: So from what I have read on the subject, the water pump shaft won't get oil unless they did that and will destroy itself and the motor of that goes out. IF that's the case, how do I go about fixing the problem?

 

[Idcatman3]

You can either take the whole motor apart and drill a couple small holes into that shaft so that your premix will get in there, or you can put a grease zerk on the oil pump delete cover plate and grease it every so often.

 

[2k4_8]

Sounds like I need to get in touch with the previous owner and find out whether or not he drilled it out. I am sure they did something either one way or another as it looks like this sled was owned by someone who knew what they were doing. It's modded, but not in a hacked up careless way. Thanks for the input thus far!

 

[diirtbag]

I have a small polaris coolant bottle for my oil tank now and blocked off the line from the oil pump to the fuel pump but left the line to the engine ,dont need much for oil on board now that it feeds just the crank,thats the same way my snowhawk came stock as well..

 

[2k4_8]

I have another question regarding this sled also. It says on the website http://www.rexburgmotorsports.com/p...7865X11K22K2009J1I57I14JPMQ3190R0&veh=1134627
That it needs a 50/50 mix of race fuel. I assume that this is due to the torque line RKT head.....I think this may be a pita so I would like to know what you guys who have to run race fuel do in order to make sure it's portable enough to go with you on a trip but that you have enough so that you don't run out. Do you think it would be just fine on a solid pump 91 or 92 or is the race mix mandatory? I have done quite a bit of reading and realize that the bigger bore can lead to easier detonation and so can a high compression head. The thing I am really having a hard time wrapping my head around is how ALL of these modifications are going to impact each other in the long run and while operating.... RK tek didn't seem to have too much regarding whether or not their head kits require it or not from what I have seen....

Take a look at the link and you can see the sled and pics of the motor setup etc.

 

[scoop]

900

I would almost bet this sled was set up with or by rocky mountian performance, they put together alot of 1010's and he did use a rkt head for some time and he the slp twins with a front dump sounds even more like his work. He usually ran them with stingers from what I have seen. If it was a r.m.p. engine it will be a runner. The 1010 runs weisco pistons so prepare for a proper warm up when first starting it to keep from a cold seize!

 

[Meatman]

like said above. make sure your sled is properly warmed up...In order to get a better feel for it I would take it out a couple times and get familiar with plug color at certain throttle positions. Becareful the sled has a wicked mid range lean spot. There are things you can do to help it but the twins definetaly make the lean spot in the mids more prevelant

The SLPs are a pretty aggressive pipe and are reccomended by Kelsey for the RKT head. They run a little hotter than most pipes which is why the extra venting.

Check around and see if you can get away running 100LL I believe if you run premix you can. Thats what I ran in mine and I had pretty much the same set up last year and she ran like a scalded dog!

As for the premix, as long as its done right, mixing isn't really that big of a deal. It's by far one of the best things Ive done with my sled, really cleans up under the hood.

I would also suggest an EGT gauge and get a good feel of what temps your plugs look best at. this will help you a little bit with tuning depending on the variance of elevations you plan on running.

check out 'best mods for the 1M' thread....great read and may give you some more ideas on how to make your ride a bit better.

-Meat

 

[diirtbag]

you could change the head (lower compression) and probably get it safe for pump gas,but if it is suggested for race gas right now run some race gas,you might find you can run a lower mix of race gas(25%) if your running at a higher elevation but thats a question for the builder of the engine..

 

[2k4_8]

I forgot to post some of the stuff because it has so damn many mods lol, but it does have the SLP dual channel analog egt setup, the one that monitors both probes and shows the hottest of the two. So the general consensus seems to be, check out the oiling situation and if that's ok then just mix the race fuel, watch egt's and haul some ***...

 

[Meatman]

sounds good...only other thing i would suggest is to re ring it and gaskets....cheap insurance plus it will give you a better understanding of everything.

 

[2k4_8]

Just an update on the thread. This sled apparently has a 990 and according to the guy that built it they had an issue with the piston around the wrist pin area not being strong enough. The motors were grenading and throwing rods through the cylinders. I guess these were spec pistons that Speedwerx had gotten from wiseco and they just weren't strong enough in that one are. It's not able to be bore out to a 1010 because the guy that owned it before went ported it too much or something so bottom line was that he said it couldn't be punched out for new pistons or the cylinders may crack. So, since the dealer isn't willing to drop the price on a sled that will need a new top end in order to be reliable, it's a no go....on with the search for me! Thanks to all those who responded, hopefully this thread can help someone else and I sure am glad I did my homework!

 

[pano-dude]

Probably a wise choice to back away.

A mod sled is not for someone who just wants to ride.

 

[Meatman]

id have to disagree with you there....those mods based on 900s are still very reliable and many are just pull the rope and go

 

[76FOMOCO]

a few year back there was a bad batch of 990 pistons with this problem but haven't head of it since and know many of them running.

 

[2k4_8]

Well......this particular sled hasn't been registered since 05 and the actual builder said that he believes this was one of the affected ones. So I am just going to keep my eyes open, have another one in my sites already

Gonna let someone else find out if it is a bad one or not. But honestly, if this sled didn't have that potential issue, I would probably just get lower compression domes for the head as the ones in it are 7k+ alt and run it, but I can't afford to risk it at this point.