03 700 speedo side jackshaft bearing

[The Fourth Wolf]

So, my learning curve continues.

I bought a new track for my 03 700 and had never done much work deeper than the usual cleaning stuff--VES valves, blowing out the clutches, chaincase oil.

I was a bit intimidated at the idea of tearing it down to change the track, especially without a manual. As it turned out (as most of you already know) it's a fairly straight forward process.

When I got to the speedo cable housing I was a bit shocked to find the bearing destroyed...which explained why my speedo quit working. (I figured the cable nut had come loose and blew it off) The odd thing is I never noticed any grinding or strange noise. I don't feel like I've been negligent--I usually support my local wrencher when I find stuff I feel is beyond my ability, or if I'm in a hurry and need it done right, and quickly.

Here's what I have:
The bearing and bearing race were in chunks but the port in the tunnel for the bearing is undamaged.
No damage on the chaincase side but the speedo end of the jackshaft is scored a bit.
The speedo housing appears undamaged but I do need new square keys.

My questions:
1) Can I get a generic bearing from a bearing distributer?
1a) If yes, anyone have a good part no. ?

2) Do I need a new jackshaft?
2a) If yes, do I need special tools to remove/install the drivers?

3) If I go OEM is the speedo housing & bearing one assembly?

4) Is there anything else I'm overlooking before putting Humpty Dumpty together again?

Thanks

 

[Mark's RMK]

Driveshaft Bearing

The bearing actually mounts on the end of the driveshaft. Normally I use a three jaw puller to remove and then carefully tap the new one on.

I have had no luck finding a replacement bearing at my local Gopher Bearing in St. Paul. The outisde of the bearing is somewhat rounded for self aligning between the plates on either side of the tunnel. I guess there is a jackshaft bearing you can get that will fit but if you get the Polaris bearing and grease it often, I haven't had any trouble. I cahnge it at about 3000 miles for security reasons. Usually redo the seals and bearings in the chaincase at the same time.

There is a gasket involved too so look at the Polaris parts web site to see how it all goes back together.

If the speedometer housing is clean I would reuse, not usre if your little square key is still intact. You may need to replace and yes the speedometer quitting is a telltale for the bearing health.

 

[The Fourth Wolf]

Thanks Mark's RMK!

From your reply I think I used the wrong terms.

I take it the driveshaft turns the track and the jackshaft transfers torque from the secondary to the chaincase. Correct?

 

[Goinboardin]

Yes, jackshaft has secondary mounted on its PTO end and goes into the top of the chaincase. Driveshaft drives the track.

My buddies sled did this same thing, his driveshaft was a little scored as well, but the new bearing (about $30 at local Polaris dealer) was still a tight fit on the shaft so we ran it. Your square key is surely sheared off and will need to be replaced to continue using your speedo.

Best of luck, and make sure you don't forget to put the inner self aligning plate on the shaft before putting the new bearing on.

 

[2XM3]

these bearings should be replaced every 1-2 years, they take a beating. Take ur old bearing to napa, they have the same rounded skf bearing for about 10 bucks, its used in harvesting equipment,or get it from wahl brothers,way less $$$ they even make a super hd one that is less prone to gettin crap in there but will require a bit of machining to fit. I would also replace your upper jackshaft bearing as well, that one slides off with a locking collar deal. i run the skf in my mod sled,8500 rpm never a issue just keep it greased.

 

[Kraven]

So, my learning curve continues.

I bought a new track for my 03 700 and had never done much work deeper than the usual cleaning stuff--VES valves, blowing out the clutches, chaincase oil.

I was a bit intimidated at the idea of tearing it down to change the track, especially without a manual. As it turned out (as most of you already know) it's a fairly straight forward process.

When I got to the speedo cable housing I was a bit shocked to find the bearing destroyed...which explained why my speedo quit working. (I figured the cable nut had come loose and blew it off) The odd thing is I never noticed any grinding or strange noise. I don't feel like I've been negligent--I usually support my local wrencher when I find stuff I feel is beyond my ability, or if I'm in a hurry and need it done right, and quickly.

Here's what I have:
The bearing and bearing race were in chunks but the port in the tunnel for the bearing is undamaged.
No damage on the chaincase side but the speedo end of the jackshaft is scored a bit.
The speedo housing appears undamaged but I do need new square keys.

My questions:
1) Can I get a generic bearing from a bearing distributer?
1a) If yes, anyone have a good part no. ?

2) Do I need a new jackshaft?
2a) If yes, do I need special tools to remove/install the drivers?

3) If I go OEM is the speedo housing & bearing one assembly?

4) Is there anything else I'm overlooking before putting Humpty Dumpty together again?

Thanks

On the bold,

"ALL BALLS" sells a bearing kit includes (2) bearings 1 for the speedo side, 1 for the chain-case side, 1 seal for the chain-case bearing, ALL for $25.00

If you can't find them, check with Don, "XCR1250" on www.hardcoresledder.com, he's in Northern Wisc, owns a sled repair shop, he'll ship out to you.

When installing the new bearing onto the drive-shaft, don't forget to install the bearing flange first, sounds E-Z enough, but by the time you realize it, you've probably got the new bearing pressed on already.

Hope this helps

 

[The Fourth Wolf]

Thanks for the replies and education fellas!

Due to a time crunch I bit the bullet and ended up buying a new driveshaft complete with bearing and drivers. The drivers on my old shaft are in excellent condition so I'll look into getting the spindle honed for a compatible bearing as a way of salvaging the old one. Otherwise I got everythng under the hood cleaned, adjusted, and put back together.

I got the shaft in and the new track on. The skid's still out--'cause I'm a doofus and stripped out the inner shaft on the lower arm/brace (whatever it's called) on the center shock. So I had a bit of an adventure trying to hunt down a replacement. I'll get everything finished up tonight and hopefully test ride it this weekend.

Again, thanks for the replies!