I picked up a '02 800 RMK this summer, what 'spare' parts do you carry? Temp sensor, water pump belt, spare crank (just kidding)???
02 800 RMK spare parts
- Thread starter fmjbt1
- Start date
Carry an extra reed set, enough wire to pull springs, a closed in wrench to change main jets, a main jet wrench, extra jets for higher and lower altitudes, a short piece of wire to short out the thermister in order to check to see if it has gone bad (when the thermister goes out it opens up the circuit), a star wrench to disconnect the high beam switch, an extra VES gasket, an extra VES diaphragm, extra new plugs, a pair of long 9/16" closed in wrenches to readjust track tension, 1/2" socket to retighten the rail bolt just in front of the front idlers, a 1/2" tow rope and a second rope to run between the ski loops, duct tape, 3/8" socket to change reeds, a broken in extra belt or two, an extra bottle that the coolant bottle tube runs into to catch the overflow and then sucks it back in, and an extra CDI box.
If anything else goes wrong that this list won't cover, you are going to need to be towed out.
I also like to upgrade the spark plug caps to the waterproof PWC plug caps, add a 1/2" threaded rod down the middle of the steering column and epoxied into place, setting the front rail straps at the 1 1/2 position (which requires drilling new holes), replacing the rear idlers every 1000 miles, keeping driveshaft axle bearings well greased, adding holz scratchers, add an SLP single pipe for an extra 10 hp, and upgrading to SLP powder pros for long tracks.
If anything else goes wrong that this list won't cover, you are going to need to be towed out.
I also like to upgrade the spark plug caps to the waterproof PWC plug caps, add a 1/2" threaded rod down the middle of the steering column and epoxied into place, setting the front rail straps at the 1 1/2 position (which requires drilling new holes), replacing the rear idlers every 1000 miles, keeping driveshaft axle bearings well greased, adding holz scratchers, add an SLP single pipe for an extra 10 hp, and upgrading to SLP powder pros for long tracks.
You will probably also want to repair the cracks in the tunnel that occur at the front under the foot rest, and the back underneath the black covers. Use 1/2" x 1/2" alum angle with 4 SS structural rivets that bridge across the rear cracks. Use 3/4" x 3/4" alum angle at the front that has a 1/2" stainless steel bolt at the front and (3) - 5/32" stainless steel stove bolts at the back of that alum angle. All bolts have SS nylon insert lock nuts and SS washers and are drilled through the tunnel foot rest. Angles bridge across the tunnel folds or cracks at the front. Better straighten any folds out first.
Thanks for reply, that's alot of good info. My tunnel has been repaired, diaphrams checked, clutch rebuild, did all the usual checks. This sled has 6200 miles on it. Thanks again
6200 miles? On the original crank? If so then you better carry a good tow rope and have a good tow sled along with you.
sled_guy
No, the orignal owner told me it has gone through 3 cranks, the last one with about 500 miles on it. I got this 02 800 RMK and a 02 800 ski-doo summit, 2200 miles, 2K for both sleds. My other ride was a '00 t-cat, just wanted something lighter to play with.
