00 Summit 700 bogs when wide open

[ryansmowing]

Howdy:

First post here!... just getting into sledding. Recently purchased 2000 summit 700... 125 psi compression... immediately cleaned carbs and went over sled as previous owner hadn't done much of anything.

Mesh hood - so tons of airflow. ANYWAY have been up to Mt Baker (4000 - 7000 foot elevation of alpine awesomeness) and yesterday 3/4 of the way up big hill climbs with throttle pinned - sled would bog. I would let up throttle and pin again and A-OK. But sometimes - all the way - no issue

SO to summarize: occasional bog with throttle pinned on hard climb... quick let off - pin again and ok...

TODAY: Bog was consistent and wouldn't correct with the throttle let off... up to 2/3 throttle just fine - beyond that - bog... BUT again, a bit inconsistent... Flatter terrain - no issue under full acceleration - but on steep long climbs...

Any thoughts or ideas? You guys have gotten me out out tons of head scratchers so far

 

[509snowman]

Does it bog when sidehilling? I have an 03 700 summit and when I would sidehill and had the exhaust side down in the snow it would sometimes bog because the exhaust has a hard time flowing out of the machine.

 

[highmark00700]

It kinda sounds like its running out of fuel to me. It could be lean jetting. Loading the motor harder on a hill would make it more noticeable than on the flat too. It came stock with 300 main jets and a 45 pilot. Set your air screws at about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. It also could be your float level in the carbs. If the float level is set to low you could run it out of fuel on a long pull or a steep angle on a hill.

 

[ryansmowing]

Hmm... Good thoughts - it does appear to be a leanness issue... Float bowl idea seems plausible.

One more wrench to throw in this that I just thought of... Previous owner left sled outside in elements for 3 years. When I picked it up, a friend and I went over everything - We found that carb boots were a bit cracked.

Obviously, this could lean everything out. As new reed assemblies are $$$ we cleaned and epoxied / siliconed outside of reed boots.

We DID find that one of the reed flaps was damaged and had one corner broken off... My buddy (who is much more mechanically inclined) said that "not a huge deal as it will just allow more fuel in and richen mix"...

But as I think about it now - I guess that it would actually LEAN it?

One last question: On these summits, the hood has air filters in it... my sled has a mesh hood so those stock filters aren't there. I just have a thin filter on top of airbox...

(1). Is this an issue?

(2). Does this affect the DPM? Is there any DPM control in stock hood?

(3). Stock hood came with sled... is it needful that I put it back on? or is mesh A-OK?

Thanks

 

[highmark00700]

Hmm... Good thoughts - it does appear to be a leanness issue... Float bowl idea seems plausible.

One more wrench to throw in this that I just thought of... Previous owner left sled outside in elements for 3 years. When I picked it up, a friend and I went over everything - We found that carb boots were a bit cracked.

Obviously, this could lean everything out. As new reed assemblies are $$$ we cleaned and epoxied / siliconed outside of reed boots.

We DID find that one of the reed flaps was damaged and had one corner broken off... My buddy (who is much more mechanically inclined) said that "not a huge deal as it will just allow more fuel in and richen mix"...

But as I think about it now - I guess that it would actually LEAN it?

One last question: On these summits, the hood has air filters in it... my sled has a mesh hood so those stock filters aren't there. I just have a thin filter on top of airbox...

(1). Is this an issue?

(2). Does this affect the DPM? Is there any DPM control in stock hood?

(3). Stock hood came with sled... is it needful that I put it back on? or is mesh A-OK?

Thanks

The carb boot could be a big factor. I would find a set on ebay, or ive heard that high performance engineering sells oem replica reed cages at a reasonable price. As for the chipped pedal. I dont think that is the culprit. They usually will make them idle rough and stumble in the mid range but i would replace them and add some reed spacers. They will chip again fairly fast without the spacers due to hitting inside the cylinder. As for the hood, its not going to change anything. I ran mine without the hood and liked it. A lot less weight on the front. No dpm inside the hood components. The only thing is you might be getting colder denser air without the hood and you might have to jet up a size for denser air but usually if the engine is not modded there is enough room with the stock jetting.

 

[Redsledhead]

Hmm... Good thoughts - it does appear to be a leanness issue... Float bowl idea seems plausible.

One more wrench to throw in this that I just thought of... Previous owner left sled outside in elements for 3 years. When I picked it up, a friend and I went over everything - We found that carb boots were a bit cracked.

Obviously, this could lean everything out. As new reed assemblies are $$$ we cleaned and epoxied / siliconed outside of reed boots.

We DID find that one of the reed flaps was damaged and had one corner broken off... My buddy (who is much more mechanically inclined) said that "not a huge deal as it will just allow more fuel in and richen mix"...

But as I think about it now - I guess that it would actually LEAN it?

One last question: On these summits, the hood has air filters in it... my sled has a mesh hood so those stock filters aren't there. I just have a thin filter on top of airbox...

(1). Is this an issue?

(2). Does this affect the DPM? Is there any DPM control in stock hood?

(3). Stock hood came with sled... is it needful that I put it back on? or is mesh A-OK?

Thanks

I would look for new reed boots . Could save you a bunch of money as I found out the hard way,
The DPM is hooked to the air box.
Have you checked clutches? Had a friend that sled would bog on climbing and we found out his secondary clutch was not back shifting on long pulls. Might be something to check

 

[ryansmowing]

RedSledHead:

I HAD originally thought that is was the secondary clutch doing just that... but then changed my mind... any thoughts on checking / fixing this?

 

[highmark00700]

RedSledHead:

I HAD originally thought that is was the secondary clutch doing just that... but then changed my mind... any thoughts on checking / fixing this?

If it slowly looses rpm on a climb and starts to bog out it is probably clutching. If it all the sudden bogs like you hit the break its probably jetting/fuel related. If you are wide open throttle and it starts to bog let out of the throttle slowly. If it starts to come back around 3/4 throttle your jetting is lean. If it wont come back till you are almost stopped then your clutches aren't backshifting. You can take your helix out of your secondary and up the preload on spring for more backshift. While you have it apart check your slide buttons and the helix bushing for wear.

 

[deep_doo]

sitting for three years i would almost bet money it is a clutch problem and more then likley the primary not secondary . all though they both probably need taken apart and cleaned . sounds like there is some sticky arms or a bad roller or two in the primary

 

[ryansmowing]

Ok, sounds like we have it narrowed to one of 75 different options... lol. I am going to add some sea foam to gas, check / up float bowl levels, and next time I ride, pop hood off and watch clutches while pinning it up the mountain(am only 1/2 joking)... will keep you posted.

Looks like I'll be grabbing some new v force reeds also

-R.

 

[BBP]

Change your reeds & boots. You know they're bad, it has to be done or it will cost you a motor. Pull your rave valves & clean them & check that the bellows aren't torn or at least remove the caps & open/close them making sure they move freely. If you haven't been in your clutches, take them apart, clean & inspect. They have to be in perfect working order. While your at it, take the cover off your chaincase, inspect the chain & put in new oil. These should all be done annually at a minimum IMO. Good luck.