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2016 Timbersled Front Spindle Damage

P

p2im0

Free Member
So I picked up my kit last year, put it on my berg just to see if I really wanted to invest in the sport. Loved it! But, with my daughter born in February, seat time was VERY limited. I put about 10 hours of "feeling it out" time on the setup and called it a season, knowing I'd build up the bike for the 18-19 season.

I pull out the bike to start changing fork oil, etc from last season and come across a bunch of issues on my front clamps, spindle, and even a bent front axle. To be clear, I had no hard crashes, my only falls were me tipping the bike sideways from being off-balance.

I'm trying to work w/my local dealer to see if anything can be replaced under warranty.

Did I screw up something with my install? Am I worrying too much? Check out the spindle - should I replace, fix, leave it like it is?

Anyone else had something similar happen?


Bulging in the clamps
6Nv5l1j.jpg

uXsC1gp.jpg


Bent bolts that screw into the aluminum spacer
HxlKVrU.jpg


Spindle holes widened out
AEvsbJj.jpg

8NDgqXW.jpg

klG0OZi.jpg


Bent my Husaberg front AXLE!!
6iP1Odl.jpg
 
Sheetmetalfab said:
You definitely hit something.
Click to expand...

I guess that damage would make sense for a hit... only thing I can think of is when the center skag caught on a rock when riding off the ice on a lake. Definitely didn't feel like it was enough to do any kind of damage like this....

I was thinking about welding up the spindle to close off the holes a bit. I'm gonna replace the bolts - clamps too?
 
p2im0 said:
I guess that damage would make sense for a hit... only thing I can think of is when the center skag caught on a rock when riding off the ice on a lake. Definitely didn't feel like it was enough to do any kind of damage like this....

I was thinking about welding up the spindle to close off the holes a bit. I'm gonna replace the bolts - clamps too?
Click to expand...



Personally I would just bolt everything back together and make sure it’s tight.

Highly likely it will happen again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Sheetmetalfab said:
Straighten the spindle (bfh)
Swap the clamps side to side.

Straighten the axle.

Set your ski bolt to axle bolt trail between 1-1.5”.
Click to expand...

Interesting... so focus on the actual distance between axle and ski bolt rather than distance the clamps are from the back of the spindle.

Does it typically land in the same spot?
 
p2im0 said:
Interesting... so focus on the actual distance between axle and ski bolt rather than distance the clamps are from the back of the spindle.

Does it typically land in the same spot?
Click to expand...

Imagine the kit installed, track and ski on the floor, you want the ski bolt to be 1-1.5” behind the wheel axle bolt. Set a carpenter square on the floor or use a level.
 
This looks like the possibility of something working loose and rotating back and forth as you are going along, either down the trail or going cross country. The fact that the aluminum fork bracket is swollen, where the bolt is threaded in, makes one think that it took a helluva shock. If, for some reason, the bracket was not tight and shifting back and forth you can see that it would not take much of a shock to swing back and create enough momentum to do some damage as you have shown. I've seen pictures of crumpled fork tubes with no damage to the clamp, axle, or ski bracket. This is also what makes me think that something was not completely tight.
Make the repairs that have been suggested, measure your trailing distance, and then make sure everything is tight (with loc-tite). Oh, I think I would replace that one clamp that is swollen, also.
Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Last edited:
BUMP

Bumping the thread... I straightened out the spindle well but realized there's some pretty bad damage to one of my clamps.

Posted a WTB if anyone has some timbersled 48mm clamps they'd be willing to part with. I figure this is pretty unlikely so I'll be ordering new ones this weekend

Here's my clamp
TdMv4Tv.jpg


::poor wallet::
 
Trailing

Make sure you grind or otherwise taper the front of the ski runners so they are not abrupt and slide over things easily. That abrupt/blunt stock runner setup pretty much insures bent stuff. Also, too much trailing, (ski pivot bolt behind axle bolt) will make bending stuff much more likely. More trailing does sometimes help trail manners but when encountering resistance (hitting stuff) the spindle becomes a lever attempting to push the spindle rearward bending the spindle attachment point rather than dissipating the energy into the forks via compression of the forks. Look at the setup from the side and think of the spindle as a wrench attempting to turn the axle bolt.
 
dooman92 said:
Make sure you grind or otherwise taper the front of the ski runners so they are not abrupt and slide over things easily. That abrupt/blunt stock runner setup pretty much insures bent stuff. Also, too much trailing, (ski pivot bolt behind axle bolt) will make bending stuff much more likely. More trailing does sometimes help trail manners but when encountering resistance (hitting stuff) the spindle becomes a lever attempting to push the spindle rearward bending the spindle attachment point rather than dissipating the energy into the forks via compression of the forks. Look at the setup from the side and think of the spindle as a wrench attempting to turn the axle bolt.
Click to expand...

Yeah I can pretty much 100% attribute the damage to the stock skeg meeting a small rock. Ordered a gold triple point the other day
 
The presence of the wallowed out holes is a good indication something came loose and was moving around enough to enlarge the holes. Which, even with very slight movement can cause bending or deformation of other parts in the "system."
The confusing pic is the one of the bent clamp. It doesn't actually clamp in that position around the fork tube does it? Because the shouldering of the fork tube causes a significant gap under the clamp there which could easily be why everything rotated and bent.
 
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