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Polaris Spring Chart

R

Ron

ACCOUNT CLOSED
Here's a chart I made of some of the more popular springs for tuning a Polaris clutch for the Dragon 8's. When looking at a graph of these the clutter makes it harder to evaluate, IMO. For those that need more R's (and can't go lighter on the weights) a primary spring change may be a practical alternative. For most sleds the stock Bl/Purple in the driven is all you need. The Bl/Red allows some belt slip with the 1115 belt while the Bl/Purple has just enough side pressure. Anything stiffer is just wasting HP, IMO. Polaris limits finish rates to 340#'s on their selection, Team maxes at 345 & SLP (adjusted for length) maxes at 360. Since the clutch loses efficiency at higher shift points, too high of finish rate can result in a sled that doesn't "pull" good & in some cases R's won't increase as finish rate is increased. I like to look at the crossing points of the spring I'm using and the spring under consideration. If you boondock you are likely in the 1/4 to 3/4 shift range most of the time.

scan0001.jpg
 
Well that just shot my theory all to HEII! I just ordered a black/white with a 20ld stiffer finish rate.. Added an SLP shim to my roller to drop my 64/40-.36 helix to a little less rate and bring spring pressure up and the thing woke up quite a bit, so I figured this blk/wht spring may me a good alternative..
 
dub said:
Well that just shot my theory all to HEII! I just ordered a black/white with a 20ld stiffer finish rate.. Added an SLP shim to my roller to drop my 64/40-.36 helix to a little less rate and bring spring pressure up and the thing woke up quite a bit, so I figured this blk/wht spring may me a good alternative..
Click to expand...

You may change R's with a stiffer spring, I'm only suggesting it's better to get them with the Primary. SkiDoo runs a lot of spring in the driven and they work, but the TRA is a different animal.
With the Bl/Purple and an SLP washer you change the preload by about 8#'s and the finish rate by about 12#'s.
 
dub said:
Well that just shot my theory all to HEII! I just ordered a black/white with a 20ld stiffer finish rate.. Added an SLP shim to my roller to drop my 64/40-.36 helix to a little less rate and bring spring pressure up and the thing woke up quite a bit, so I figured this blk/wht spring may me a good alternative..
Click to expand...
Try it before you question your decision. I think you will like the results. I know quite a few big name tuners that all recommend stiffer secondary springs with the team clutch for mountain applications.
Do some playing with the team clutching calculator located in the "increasing your IQ" sticky at the top of the page. Enter your helix and see how stiff of a spring you need to equal side force from engagement to full shift. Remember, the CVT system works at opposites with each other. When the primary has the most belt squeeze the secondary has the least and vice verso. So, when the primary is pulling like crazy, you would want at least as much side force as you have at engagement. Otherwise you can get belt slip and slower track speeds.
I've been running 160-280 spring at 6000 ft with great results. Remember, clutch tuning is a very personal thing. There are many different approaches to get to the same or similar end result.
 
Just another thought....don't rely on seat of pants tuning or entirely on RPM readings with these sleds...it may fool you. The old adage-one change at a time coupled with running against a test mule to measure performance changes is the only way to tune. If a drag race winner on a groomed trail is what's important then go for it. I prefer a high mountain lake with some fresh and then a side by side on a hill.
 
thefullmonte said:
Try it before you question your decision. I think you will like the results. I know quite a few big name tuners that all recommend stiffer secondary springs with the team clutch for mountain applications.
Do some playing with the team clutching calculator located in the "increasing your IQ" sticky at the top of the page. Enter your helix and see how stiff of a spring you need to equal side force from engagement to full shift. Remember, the CVT system works at opposites with each other. When the primary has the most belt squeeze the secondary has the least and vice verso. So, when the primary is pulling like crazy, you would want at least as much side force as you have at engagement. Otherwise you can get belt slip and slower track speeds.
I've been running 160-280 spring at 6000 ft with great results. Remember, clutch tuning is a very personal thing. There are many different approaches to get to the same or similar end result.
Click to expand...

Thanks Monte!

that is the first time I have played with this!!

I tried a bunch of different scenerios and found that my best results have been almost equal start and finish rate, especially the steeper the helix. Good stuff there!
 
Ron- Thanks for pointing this out and going through the work to make a chart.

I do have a couple of questions.

1. I thought the blue/pink spring is a 140-340, I think you have 350 on your chart. Is that a mistake or did I miss something?

2. I was looking at a team chart that said they were measured at 2.562", and 1.312". Do you know if which one is correct?

Please don't take this as being critical. I know that you have done some research to come up with this data so I'm pretty sure you know what you are talking about.
 
hardhat32 said:
Ron- Thanks for pointing this out and going through the work to make a chart.

I do have a couple of questions.

1. I thought the blue/pink spring is a 140-340, I think you have 350 on your chart. Is that a mistake or did I miss something?

2. I was looking at a team chart that said they were measured at 2.562", and 1.312". Do you know if which one is correct?

Please don't take this as being critical. I know that you have done some research to come up with this data so I'm pretty sure you know what you are talking about.
Click to expand...

Thanks Hardhat, I do have a mistake on the SLP spring it's a 340 finish rate on the Blue/Pink so is 349.6 adjusted to the Polaris length.

The measurements you quote for Team is for Arctic Cat springs, Polaris are 2.5" & 1.19".
 
Took apart the primary the other day and got to do a little measuring. Near as I can tell, at full shift out the spring will never compress further than 1.25". In fact my measurement was exactly 1.25".
So what this means is that the SLP springs would in fact be more accurate. Polaris and Team would never hypothetically reach their measurement of 1.19" never achieving the final spring rate listed. Probably not a huge deal, but thought it was interesting.
 
Monte, you can change the length of the shift as you set belt side clearance. For a wider belt you move the sheaves farther apart so increase the length of the shift. This also increases spring pressure since the spring compresses more as that side is now shorter. So all spring rates are really relative to the actual length of the springs + or - and the set up of the clutch.
 
Yeah, I figured that all comes into play.I just measured it with the sheaves collapsed. Basically full shift out where they couldn't go any further. My clutch was balanced and side clearance adjusted by Indy Dan to run the XS-809 belt. Just thought it was interesting.
 
Hey ron, Im running an SLP blue/pink spring, with my twin pipes. Now SLP is suggesting running a helix that is 4 degrees either steeper or shallow(not sure which) how is this going to help me in performance? kinda new to the whole sledding scene. thanks
 
Help

Hey Ron, I'm looking for a little advise and you seem to know what your doing whit clutching.

I recently picked up a 2009 rmk assault with a blown 800. Ended up installing a rebuilt 700 in it. What would you recommend for springs and weights. It currently has the stock 800 clutch in it. Most riding in northern Michigan with one wyoming trip a year. Just looking for a good starting point

Thanks
 
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