Coolant heated handle bars

[M5-]

I read a while back of somebody making their own heated bars but I can't find the post. I'm just curious about the plumbing. Is there a coil in the bar or is the bar just welded up at both ends then a couple of fittings welded to the bars. allowing the grip ends to be heated radiantly by the flow through the center of the bars. I'm just looking at options for the YZ and its 60 watt stator output limitations.

M5

 

[Butta]

Raze Motorsports makes what you’re looking for.

 

[s.back]

What year yz do you have? Mine is a 16 and stator is 90 watts. I just run a small battery behind headlight to take the start up draw.

 

[sledr2]

Have a buddy that makes some that slip into the ends of the bar and seals with o-rings. Mount almost any hand guard system to them. Pretty slick, no drilling into bars or welding.

 

[jrusher]

Coolant heated bars

I got some messages about making these coolant bars that i made up last season. So here's a breakdown on what I did
-used some 5/16 hose for inside of the bars or maybe was 1/4" , drill an tap 1/8" npt centre of bars, fill centre section with some epoxy or hi-temp silicone an plug (you probably could get away without using the internal line and plugging the center section but i like the idea of forcing the coolant to the ends of the bars)
-drill an tap for 1/4" npt holes for inlet an outlet on bars, plug an weld ends of bars an drill an tap as required for barkbusters etc (i used a 1" aluminum plug in ends and welded then drill/tap)
- used a 1/4" ball valve off the thermostat bypass a couple fittings an some AN braided brake or fuel line for inlet and return to and from bars. I used 22" long lines, this will vary depending on bar/riser set-up
Cost me about $150 in parts an couple hours of my time money well spent! Nothing like hot hands riding
Here's a couple pics
Also should add I tried ame electric grips for a few seasons on a couple different Yzs and they barely put out any heat at all. Maybe my stator want big enough? These coolant bars will almost burn your hands spring riding or warm days if you don't pinch in the flow. By far the best mod I've done to a snow bike

 

[Misha Subo]

Raze Motorsports makes what you’re looking for.

I cannot see why this should be so hard to do yourself? All Raze seems to be doing is putting two NPT taps on each end of the bars with a to/from fitting on each port back to the coolant system and capping the ends. I guess it could weaken the bars at the fitting ports?

Why so much money for new bars when we all already have a set on our bikes for the summer that could be easily modified?

 

[Misha Subo]

Jrusher beat me to it while I was typing my last comment...well done but what do you think about weakening the bars too much - could you get away with 1/8NPT on the coolant ports?

 

[jrusher]

Jrusher beat me to it while I was typing my last comment...well done but what do you think about weakening the bars too much - could you get away with 1/8NPT on the coolant ports?

I think I might of used 1/8" npt its been awhile getting old lol I'll check tonight

 

[Misha Subo]

Great, please do check and get back to me on that...1/8NPT is the smallest you can go and still you need to get substantial flow. The down side of coolant heated bars is that the engine gets even cooler. How about wrapping neoprene household pipe insulation over the bars (armaflex?)

 

[jrusher]

Great, please do check and get back to me on that...1/8NPT is the smallest you can go and still you need to get substantial flow. The down side of coolant heated bars is that the engine gets even cooler. How about wrapping neoprene household pipe insulation over the bars (armaflex?)

The bars do act like a small heat exchanger but there not being quenched constantly by snow like our engine is . I didnt see any change in running temps. My engine is shrouded good which helps the most and a good thermostat of course. i block my rads off on real cold days as needed

 

[M5-]

OK so if I am understanding this correctly. The coolant flow is as follows:

Leaves the thermostat bypass via the supply line

Enters one side of the bars hits the center block off and is forced to the outboard end of the bar where it then exits that side of the bars passing to the other side of the bars via the tube.

Exits the tube and passes around the tube until it hits the exit port in the bars and returns to the cooling system.

Did you have any worries of the plastic tube melting when welding in the end plugs. I was thinking soft copper might be a good option for the tube.

Jrusher BTW thanks for posting this up. I didn't notice in your pics where you plugged the hole for the epoxy/silicone. Was it in the center between the clamps.

M5

 

[jrusher]

OK so if I am understanding this correctly. The coolant flow is as follows:

Leaves the thermostat bypass via the supply line

Enters one side of the bars hits the center block off and is forced to the outboard end of the bar where it then exits that side of the bars passing to the other side of the bars via the tube.

Exits the tube and passes around the tube until it hits the exit port in the bars and returns to the cooling system.

Did you have any worries of the plastic tube melting when welding in the end plugs. I was thinking soft copper might be a good option for the tube.

Jrusher BTW thanks for posting this up. I didn't notice in your pics where you plugged the hole for the epoxy/silicone. Was it in the center between the clamps.

M5

No worries I meant to post it up here last season gives a guy an option to save some cake . Yes that's the flow path and yes drill in middle of bars for plug . I got the plastic hose from Home Depot and tested it in boiling water no issues with melting.

 

[wellfed777]

i love it

 

[Seekins]

I got the raze bars and eould never gonna know to electric

 

[L.Hughes]

Can someone help me understand why you would want coolant heated bars over electric?

 

[Misha Subo]

Jrusher, do you have the name of the 1/4 turn valve you used?

 

[POLZIN]

Can someone help me understand why you would want coolant heated bars over electric?

no power draw from the bike
no flimsy junk like the heater elements are

 

[M5-]

Can someone help me understand why you would want coolant heated bars over electric?

For me its for the ability to run both the heat and a light at the same time. The YZ pre 18 has no battery same as most kick only race bikes and will just barely run one or the other but not both. The stator is really designed just to support the fuel pump and the ignition. Why push it is my thinking. The times I most want heat are at the end of the day when we are coming down, its dark and I'm tired and getting cold. That also happens to be a good time to have lights.

M5

 

[portgrinder]

check that one stainless line right near your rad. it might be rubbing through. that cheesy aluminum they make rads out of is softer than plastic.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

No worries I meant to post it up here last season gives a guy an option to save some cake . Yes that's the flow path and yes drill in middle of bars for plug . I got the plastic hose from Home Depot and tested it in boiling water no issues with melting.

Welding aluminum is 5-6 times hotter than boiling water?