D
Danbot
Well-known member
Ive thought about writing this a few times before, I just happen to be recovering from knee surgery right now and have spare time. I have my personal list of things I check / change on my own new rides before they hit the snow, interested to hear what the rest of you do. Here's my must do list for the Pro.
Wiring / Electrical:
-Unplug, grease, and reconnect every connector I can get reasonable access to, to keep water out, and to be sure they are locked.
-Inspect zip ties, routing, and slack. I end up cutting off lots of zip ties that are way too tight and pinching wires, and re install at my ideal tension.
-Install tether while everything is exposed.
-Zip tie the connectors for the console switches together, so there is less chance they will unplug while riding.
-Double check grounds, and clean off paint on both bumper tab mounts, so that if one is broken in a tree bump, they will still ground through the other tab.
Engine / Drivetrain:
-Re-route VES dump hose to the silencer outlet. I have it exiting in between the snow deflector, and the silencer tip. The warmth keeps it from plugging.
-Remove pipe, and silencer to apply high temp silicone to the donuts.
-Take a good look at all fuel, coolant, and oil lines / connections for poorly placed clamps or other possible issues.
-I installed a DIY check valve breather on my oil tank this year.
-Turn up the oiler. I start at 3 turns and calculate consumption when I hit the snow, and re adjust if necessary. (this year I'm aiming for 30-35:1)
-Remove drive belt(s) and clean them.
-Clean drive, and driven clutch sheaves with scotch brite.
-Check drive clutch bolt torque.
-Verify driven clutch float.
-Check belt to sheave clearance, if it's out I bring it back to dealer for setup since I don't have the tools.
-Set belt deflection.
-Check QD pulley torque.
-Set track tension / alignment.
-I secure a spare QD belt to the upper structure on the right side under the hood, and pack all necessary tools to replace it in my tool kit.
-Check the foam on the upper intake duct-to-hood seal. replace the foam and glue it in place if there are gaps or damage.
Chassis / Suspension:
-Check installed length of springs, and valving adjusters. RTS is the only one with specs in the operators manual, so for the IFS I just make sure they are equal to start.
-Remove ski bolts and apply anti-seize compound.
-Check and adjust amber and toe.
-Lay a strip of Gorilla tape over the chaincase drain hole.
-I file / smooth out a few of the front running board "cleats" to avoid trapped boot syndrome.
Controls:
-After I move the bar position, throttle, brake, PERC, and kill switch to my taste, I re set throttle freeplay, and adjust zip ties on the bars to keep enough slack on both ends.
-Tighten bar hooks, they are usually loose.
*Added*
-Remove skid, clean and grease shafts.
It's sad we have to do all this to help ensure there will be no silly breakdowns, but sleds aren't like cars and trucks with strict manufacturing process. Every dealership, has low wage apprentices, and maybe that one guy who just doesn't have pride in his work, or rushes things in the hustle of the fall PDI's. Considering the places we can get to on a modern snowmobile, it's important to do everything you can to be confident you wont end up stranded in the back country.
I would like to hear from the rest of you on your pre-ride setup, and checks. Hopefully this will help someone who assumes he/she can just fill the fuel tank on a new sled and go!
Wiring / Electrical:
-Unplug, grease, and reconnect every connector I can get reasonable access to, to keep water out, and to be sure they are locked.
-Inspect zip ties, routing, and slack. I end up cutting off lots of zip ties that are way too tight and pinching wires, and re install at my ideal tension.
-Install tether while everything is exposed.
-Zip tie the connectors for the console switches together, so there is less chance they will unplug while riding.
-Double check grounds, and clean off paint on both bumper tab mounts, so that if one is broken in a tree bump, they will still ground through the other tab.
Engine / Drivetrain:
-Re-route VES dump hose to the silencer outlet. I have it exiting in between the snow deflector, and the silencer tip. The warmth keeps it from plugging.
-Remove pipe, and silencer to apply high temp silicone to the donuts.
-Take a good look at all fuel, coolant, and oil lines / connections for poorly placed clamps or other possible issues.
-I installed a DIY check valve breather on my oil tank this year.
-Turn up the oiler. I start at 3 turns and calculate consumption when I hit the snow, and re adjust if necessary. (this year I'm aiming for 30-35:1)
-Remove drive belt(s) and clean them.
-Clean drive, and driven clutch sheaves with scotch brite.
-Check drive clutch bolt torque.
-Verify driven clutch float.
-Check belt to sheave clearance, if it's out I bring it back to dealer for setup since I don't have the tools.
-Set belt deflection.
-Check QD pulley torque.
-Set track tension / alignment.
-I secure a spare QD belt to the upper structure on the right side under the hood, and pack all necessary tools to replace it in my tool kit.
-Check the foam on the upper intake duct-to-hood seal. replace the foam and glue it in place if there are gaps or damage.
Chassis / Suspension:
-Check installed length of springs, and valving adjusters. RTS is the only one with specs in the operators manual, so for the IFS I just make sure they are equal to start.
-Remove ski bolts and apply anti-seize compound.
-Check and adjust amber and toe.
-Lay a strip of Gorilla tape over the chaincase drain hole.
-I file / smooth out a few of the front running board "cleats" to avoid trapped boot syndrome.
Controls:
-After I move the bar position, throttle, brake, PERC, and kill switch to my taste, I re set throttle freeplay, and adjust zip ties on the bars to keep enough slack on both ends.
-Tighten bar hooks, they are usually loose.
*Added*
-Remove skid, clean and grease shafts.
It's sad we have to do all this to help ensure there will be no silly breakdowns, but sleds aren't like cars and trucks with strict manufacturing process. Every dealership, has low wage apprentices, and maybe that one guy who just doesn't have pride in his work, or rushes things in the hustle of the fall PDI's. Considering the places we can get to on a modern snowmobile, it's important to do everything you can to be confident you wont end up stranded in the back country.
I would like to hear from the rest of you on your pre-ride setup, and checks. Hopefully this will help someone who assumes he/she can just fill the fuel tank on a new sled and go!
