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I'm ALMOST done!

Just "one more day" (for the fifth tine!)

This isn't so much a build, it was more like, since I gotta got to replace the bearings and the stubby Swingarm pivot bolts, I might as well do these other things as well...

Jan 6th. This bird has been bone stock cept for removing some pucks from the primary and removing the middle skid spring.

a1-Bonestock.jpg



Good bye Torque limiting system.. Only AD Boivan would use the most complicated solution to the simplest problem of belts breaking.. and then make a sticker on your hood shouting about it!

a2-Belt.jpg




So I took off all this...

a3-Oldparts.jpg



And put on all this.. Do you know who makes what?
b1-Newparts.jpg



oh yeah.. the 151" x 16" x 2.5" paddles from the 08/09 XP's; plus a Used $75 table saw to make it fit!
b2-Track.jpg



finally got to cut the zip tie that held the carbs off the stock jackshaft.. sledr2's work fixed that!
b3-zipcut.jpg



Decided to cut some weight by puttting a 1/8th" groove into my left frame plate... saved .006 OZ's and 20% structual intregrity reduction!
b4-groove.jpg



LH frame doubler and strut.. The strut completes a triangle... Nice work, I like triangles.
c1-DoublerL.jpg



RH frame doubler.. I had to drill a new set of holes, the end one would of gone right thru my can. TLKPRD!!!!!
c2-DoublerR.jpg



Off Road rider's advice to put the drive shaft in the freezer - Zero dollars.

Wifes reaction to this pic - "Is that OUR freezer?" - Priceless.

d1-TrackShaft.jpg



Sledr2 put my SnoWest SN on the bar risers.
Sure glad my SN wasn't "Fart Face" or "Dill Weed"... actually, Dill Weed would of been cool.
e1-BarRisers.jpg



Tiny Tach nestles right in the new risers...
e2-tach.jpg



151" extension w/ 8" big wheel by sledr2..
f1-Rail1.jpg


entire 151" skid w/ anti stab installed.
New Hifax is about 5 inches longer than the 136"
f2-Rail2.jpg



This took about 4 hours of my life (damn beers!)
This sure stinks!
g1-Track3.jpg


1/2 way Done!
g3-Track2.jpg





The motor of the saw (I just picked it up used) got REAL hot and quit spinning 3/4's of the way thru the cutting, thought I toasted it. Then I noticed this little yellow plug that said "Oil". Some 10-W40 and you idiot! later, all was good.
g1a-Oilcap.jpg




No officer, that stench you smell is NOT a Meth Lab!, This is called "Track Cutting". Phew, that was close!
g2-MaskMan.jpg




My Stock 136 is 12 3/8" wide
g4-oldtrackwoidth.jpg




I was shooting for about 12 7/8"s wide to be safe. Ended up 12 3/4's.. No 14" wide Mo-Fo, but I'll take it.
g5-newtrackwidth.jpg




Most important part, it is 1 7/16" from the window on both sides.. even steven.
g6-newtracjwindow.jpg




Side by side of 136 and 151

g7-tracks.jpg




Good idea TLKPRD for suggesting cardboard to help put the track driver in, this plastic I had left over from padding the tank contact points worked even better...
g9-trackinstall.jpg




the recommended longer swingarm bolts were hard to come by (what else is new)
g91-newlongbolts.jpg




It fits!
g99-itfits.jpg




All bolted tight...
looks tuff w/out the flap.
g99a.jpg




Tight in there!
g99b.jpg




Best upgrade for the buck!
My 600 ALWAYS overheated, just doubled up my bungees 2 years ago and never a problem since!
h1flap.jpg




Gas tank was worn half way thru at body connections.. dense plastic pads to stop it from getting worse.
i2-UD-pads.jpg




SKIDOO part # 570 135 100 "Radiator Reservoir Grommet" - Why does it not suprise me that this is the gas tank grommet?
i3-570135100.jpg




Gas tank quick release connecter from SHA
j1-gasdisconnectect.jpg




Artic cat secondary; all small pucks gone from salad bowl
I1-clutch.jpg




Now back to the thread title.. I'm one link to short!! AARRGGHHH!!! off to the parts store AGAIN. I geared it down to 14/30 from stock 28/56 so the Lil' ol' 600 can keep the 151 spinning!
j2.jpg




Tony always asks my why I call the 05 600's the Van Halen Model..
Exhibit one:
VHI.jpg



Exhibit two:
VHII.jpg



One more day!
 
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Wow nice report Dan !

That's a friggin nice track you found there ! I like the way you trimmed the corners and added that little notch in the middle of the trim. Let me know how it handles in the trail. I'm gettin used to mine untrimmed and starting to like it too much in the deep stuff but the back just wants to wash out on me when I throttle too hard on hardpack corners ! Way easier to control the back from washing out than the front !!!

Van Hallen ! LOL ! Sure looks similar to me !!!
 
I was hoping to not cut the track....

I only cut the track cause the paddles were bending over at the edges as the outside paddles drug thru the tunnel... once it was cut, I put the vertical notches to try to mimick the edge of the stock track...

Wow nice report Dan !

That's a friggin nice track you found there ! I like the way you trimmed the corners and added that little notch in the middle of the trim. Let me know how it handles in the trail. I'm gettin used to mine untrimmed and starting to like it too much in the deep stuff but the back just wants to wash out on me when I throttle too hard on hardpack corners ! Way easier to control the back from washing out than the front !!!

Van Hallen ! LOL ! Sure looks similar to me !!!
 
secondary

Is that the 020 belt. What elevation do you normally ride at.

I have the red secondary spring also. thinking I should change to green my elevation is 1400ft. Have all my weight's in the salad bowl.




Off track. Your hawk looks frickin awsome very nice post and pic display.

thank you for taking the time to post all that

go have a beer or two.
 
Just "one more day" (for the fifth tine!)
...

Now back to the thread title.. I'm one link to short!! AARRGGHHH!!! off to the parts store AGAIN. I geared it down to 14/30 from stock 28/56 so the Lil' ol' 600 can keep the 151 spinning!

I'd suggest going 13-30 right away if you have a 13T top sprocket. Considering all of this : Mt Baker elevation, the heavier style of snow you get close to the coast, the 600HO motor and the bigger wider track/longer/wider lugs you have to pull. This thing will shovel snow way better than the stock track that's for sure but it will put more load through the system, sure enough going down from 2 to 1 ratio to 2.15 to 1 is good but I think it 13-30 (2.307 to 1) will be even better and will have the system to handle the new track better. Besides, it will still allow you to go at around 74 MPH, fast enough for me... Going that fast is something, we western mountain riders, don't get to experience that often ! Lower gearing will recover RPM better in the deep snow and might accelerate better too, which is something you want in the mountains.

Anyways, that's something really cheap you can try down the road. This or lower your helix angle.

Personally, I went from a top speed capacity of 85MPH (stock everything) down to 79MPH when I threw my 13-28 chain drive last year (same track though 13x144" track). That helped on the backshift. Then down again to 73MPH (13-28 gearing with 7 tooth 3.0 Drivers) for my new track. I think I could go down again just so it's totally bulletproof strong everywhere through the shift. I think a very good track speed number to pull in the steep and deep at elevation with this new Camo Extreme 14" track is no where near 73 MPH anyway. I assembled a mountain machine, not a near sea elevation Trail rocket ship like Rude ! I still don't know what my trackspeed is (still need to install Vapor speed senso...) but if I'm spinning a strong mid to high 40s (MPH) with this track it'll be going almost wherever I want in the super deep.

What Helix are you running in there ?
 
We'll theirry thats where you and I dissagree when It comes to tuning. I think you gear too low. There is no reason for you to be geared that low with the motor that you have. If your not back shifting than tune you clutch, not gearing. IMHO pull as much gear as your motor will allow. Tune you clutch for backshift.


Many a sled head has had this debate, But I say why compensate for poor clutching by giving up track speed.
 
Snow Dunes, thanks for the great report!! The pictures make it even better. I hope your Hawk rides great for you.

I know what you mean by "one more day". I have been saying that about getting my Hawk finished!! I too am very close....I figure I'm about 1 more day away!!

Later...AkBillyBow
 
Hmm, that's good point CJ.

But why should I gear for, let's say, 80MPH when I absolutely know I'll only be using the first 55-60 (actually it would be more like from 0 to 50) of that 80 capacity ? Wouldn't it be true to say that my clutch system might be operating "better" and have a better acceleration capacity, easier to "fine tune" if I was working with something closer to 75-80% of the shift system instead of just 60-65% ? I think it can't be a bad thing to cover a wider range of "belt movement" on the sheaves for each specific application. Does it ? Doing it this way gives the belt/clutches more "area" to "work with on the sheave faces" and by doing this they have to be controling/finetuning the shift and backshift more precisely, don't they ? If I was riding close to sea level I'd be gearing up that's for sure because i'd probably use that gearing, but here the playing areas are around 4500 to 7000' so that's quite a lot of HP we're losing, plus the amount of load the track puts in the system, that's mainly what i'm trying to fight by gearing down here. So that's my whole theory behind that :face-icon-small-win How much is too much or just about right, that's a good question !

With this gearing I got now, I really have amazing backshift as well as a very very good "out of the hole" punch I'm looking for. I don't know if gearing up will give me this and more or just about the same or less.

That being said, since I haven't tested it myself, I'll try gearing up instead of down one day and see if I'm giving away anything. Gearing up might also mean doing a bit of clutch work for sure but that can be fixed, i'm so used to pull my clutches apart now... !
 
You have a good point in the hp loss at elevation, And the area your riding in make's a difference in gearing. Where we are 0 to 6000 feet, we are gearing up the 600 136" ers, and seeing awesome results. If you have the hp to pull the gear, the taller gear will pull harder, and you will get to top mph faster. Thats why drag racers gear their stuff as tall as they can. There is a point where you won't be able to clutch for a good backshift, but thats well past 1.50 IMHO.


Be careful tuning your snowhawk like you would a two-ski. They react different, variable's are different, they are just different.
 
Sorry about the hijack Snowdunes, I can move TLKD's and I 's discussion to a new thread if you like. Back on topic, you build looks GREAT, let me know if you want me to next day air a link to you, Sorry I cut the chain too short.
 
more discusion the better!

while we're on this topic....

does the cvt top out at 1:1, under drive, or over drive?

I was under the assumption that a 2:1 gear and below was under drive for mountains; 2:1 and above is for sea level - your opinions?
 
while we're on this topic....

does the cvt top out at 1:1, under drive, or over drive?

I was under the assumption that a 2:1 gear and below was under drive for mountains; 2:1 and above is for sea level - your opinions?



Depends on the clutch, a TRA can actually shift into an overdrive 1:.8, but most mountain riders try to avoid that.
 
while we're on this topic....

does the cvt top out at 1:1, under drive, or over drive?

I was under the assumption that a 2:1 gear and below was under drive for mountains; 2:1 and above is for sea level - your opinions?


Exactly the theory that TLKD and I were discussing, HAHAHAHAHA Theory, Theirry, I'm discussing theory with Theirry, Oh sorry TLKD this ain't grade school. I think that it is misguided to use two-ski clutch and gearing set-ups on a Hawk.

But I have also never set-up a machine ( two-ski or hawk) for anything above 7000 ft. And some of you guys are starting there.

And just because we ride between 0 and 6000 ft don't think we are not mountain riders, Our mountains just start at Sea-level and go straight up from there.
 
Nice.

Twoskis are probably wondering where the tunnel extension is!:face-icon-small-hap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZbTF7mI0ZM&feature=related

mister-softee-florida-world-famous-ice-cream-trucks-southwest-fl-38266.jpg



Dan,

Suspension brackets allow for forward shock spring "installed"!

Are your new pivot bolts 70mm, countersink bushing for bolt shoulder, so you can have nylock nut on the back side?

For the safe side I warn you about removing all small coins all though I had mine out and just confirmed 270 not 280 mains that were in my machine.

The AC secondary could change things with the longer belt and larger diameter, just test first for pete sake, nice tach, watch it's numbers!
 
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Hey guys I'm having so much fun with this Excel calculator I made for calculating the gear ratio and top speed, you gotta try it. It sure is not rocket science but i think it's pretty cool anyways and want to share it.

"Theory" would actually be the closest thing to the right pronounciation of my name. But everybody just says "Terry" and i'm fine with that !
 

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