Installation Process
1) Pulling the rear skid isn’t complicated … although it can sometimes be a little frustrating. There are only four bolts that need to be removed that attach the skid to the tunnel—two in the front where your feet are usually located near the running board and two in the rear just below the running board. (The trick is to loosen a bolt without it spinning the entire shaft. By using an air ratchet, you usually can generate enough torque to loosen the bolt. But if one side is loose and the other side spins, you may need to re-tighten the one side and break the other side free.)
2) With the skid out, you are now going to remove parts from the old skid so you can use the bolts, bushings and stuff on the new skid. This means you will need to take apart the entire skid. We approached the process by breaking down the old and building up the new as we went along so it was a matter of parts off and then parts back on. This way we didn’t have a bunch of parts laying around trying to figure out where they went.
3) If you’re installing a 2016 rear kit, it will likely involve a rear arm, two slide rails, a pull rod and two new shocks (we used the Fox Evol shocks that come with the Limited Edition kit). You will also need to extend your limiter straps to accommodate the longer shocks.
4) There will be a couple of bushings on the front mount that will need to be pressed off the old rails and then pressed on the news rails. Other than that everything pretty much comes off with wrenches.
5) Once the new skid is rebuilt, then it’s just a matter of re-installing the skid back into the chassis, tightening the bolts and re-adjusting the track tension.