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When talk turns to riding “out West,” the Black Hills of South Dakota often are overshadowed by more famous locales and loftier mountain ranges. But anyone who overlooks this gem of a locale will miss out on the opportunity to experience first class riding and the many attractions that make the Black Hills a prime snowmobiling vacation destination.
The Black Hills are a place with plenty to see and do, which won’t disappoint sledders, whether they’re diehard enthusiasts or more weekend warrior-type riders.
Physically the Black Hills are the remnant of an ancient geological formation that formed a large, tree-covered island amidst the otherwise arid Great Plains. The mountain range, with half a dozen peaks of more than 7,000 feet, is encompassed by the 1.2-million acre Black Hills National Forest. The prime snowmobiling area and trail network is found in its northwestern quadrant and includes about 350 miles of marked and groomed trails, with about 50 of those across the border in Wyoming.
Hills alive with scenery
Because of the favorable elevation, amounts of snow received, and remarkable scenery, this is the most popular snowmobile destination in the Dakotas. South Dakota manages and maintains the system with six grooming machines, all of which operate Thursday through Sunday nights. Monday through Wednesday, three groomers keep the network in tiptop condition for midweek riders.
Photographer Todd Schei and I had the pleasure of touring the Black Hills last season during the first week of March and enjoyed two days of outstanding riding. Although spring-like temperatures cut short our visit by a day, we were able to explore much of the well-maintained trail system and do some off-trail riding as well. During our visit we also enjoyed some of the sights and entertainment that make this area a treat.
Our base was the Recreational Springs Resort, several miles south of the historic towns of Deadwood and Lead. This very comfortable and friendly resort offers food, lodging, fuel and plenty of snowmobiles for rent. We cruised aboard a pair of their reliable and well-traveled Polaris Indys, and while we loved these older models the entire fleet will be replaced this season with new iron.
With the main trail system to the west and south of the resort, we set out each morning toward this heart of the network. The twisting trails took us through stands of tall pines, over a variety of hills and through a succession of valleys, with occasional rock formations visible as we passed. The system was well marked and at most junctions there were options and loop routes for our consideration.
Our lunch stop on the first day was the Trailshead Lodge, a popular pit stop near the Wyoming border where numerous trails converge. Here we met Shannon Percy, district park supervisor with the S.D. Department of Game, Fish & Parks. Shannon is manager of the Black Hills snowmobile trail system and had graciously offered to be our guide for the afternoon. After lunch and refueling our sleds, we were on our way.
Since the Black Hills are renowned for off-trail riding opportunities, we asked Shannon to give us a taste of cross country snowmobiling. He took us east on the marked trail before veering north onto Long Draw Road, heading for Wildcat Gulch. After a few miles on secondary forest roads and logging trails, we set off deeper into the pines, climbing onto a ridge that ended with an overlook of scenic Spearfish Canyon. On the way back down, we explored some open play areas and encountered several mule deer that scampered into the forest as we approached.
Not long after returning to the main trail, Shannon took us on another off-trail excursion, this time climbing toward Crooks Tower Peak, where he said we might see some elk. We didn’t find any on this occasion, but the riding was challenging and fun, so we weren’t too disappointed. As the sun began to sink, we bid goodbye to our guide and returned to the resort with smiles on our faces and 139 miles on our odometers. The off-trail excursions were the highlight of the day and this kind of exploration is popular with visiting sledders, especially those from the more trail-oriented Midwest.
“This is a great place for off-trail riding,” Percy says, “but I do caution riders to be aware, because there is a great deal of private property scattered throughout the Hills. Riders need to have an up-to-date USDA Forest Service map indicating U.S. Forest and private boundaries. That map also will aid the user by showing most of the roads closed to other traffic during the snowmobile season.”
Copies of the map are available upon request from the Black Hills Trails Office.
Panoramic views were Aces
Our second day of riding was a grand loop that took us as far south as Redback Campground. Several sections were relatively flat, with wide valleys, making for a fast, fun and exhilarating ride. Turning north, we cruised past the Beaver Creak cross country ski area and a small wilderness area that’s off limits to snowmobilers. The trail took us through scenic canyons where the yellow sandstone cliffs were illuminated by the mid-day sun. This twisting route took us into Wyoming, where we stopped for lunch and fuel at the rustic Buckhorn Bar & Grill, a popular stop near Newcastle. Before departing, we spent a minute petting Smokey the Cat, the lazy feline purported to be the Mayor of Buckhorn, at least according to a picture on the wall!
After lunch we continued north on a smooth but serpentine trail that skirted the state border on its way to Cement Ridge Lookout, one of the literal and figurative high points of a visit to the Black Hills. This particular mountaintop, just inside Wyoming, features an historic lookout building and 360-degree panoramic views. Inside the building are displays and interpretive information, including plaques that identify many of the far-off peaks visible on the horizon to the north and east.
We resumed our journey by continuing north, with the trail taking us back into South Dakota toward the Big Hill trailhead, the northernmost point on the Black Hills trail system. There, we turned south for our return trip, skirting the state border again, this time on the Dakota side. A connecting trail offered access to the spectacular Spearfish Canyon, one of the most scenic places in the Black Hills and a site featured in the movie, “Dances With Wolves.” It’s not to be missed, but since we’d seen it before, we continued on our homeward journey. We arrived back at Recreational Springs Resort just before sunset, with 167 miles showing for the day.
Although our riding was cut short by warm weather, we were able to enjoy many of the reasons visitors love the Black Hills. Recreational Springs Resort is particularly well located, with nearby Lead and Deadwood offering numerous options for dining and casino gambling.
Both towns are steeped in history. One of Deadwood’s most popular spots is the saloon where Wild Bill Hickock was shot in the midst of a poker game holding what forever will be known as the “Dead Man’s Hand” (two pair, aces and eights). For movie buffs, Kevin Costner’s nearby Midnight Star is a three-story gambling emporium, bar and restaurant where costumes from his films adorn walls on the second floor. Lead is renowned as the site of the world-famous Homestake gold mine, one of the largest in the world. The Black Hills Mining Museum also is located in town and worth a visit.
Outside of the two towns are many other attractions, including historic mines, caves and two of the most spectacular sculptures in the world – legendary Mount Rushmore and the massive Crazy Horse Monument, still a work in progress. Beyond the Black Hills are two more natural features that are equally impressive – the Badlands to the east and Devils Tower to the west, in Wyoming. The list goes on, but it’s obvious that this is a family-friendly, first-class snowmobiling venue with plenty to see, do and enjoy.
For lodging or snowmobile rental information, contact Recreational Springs Resort at 877-584-1228 or
www.recsprings.com. The USDA Forest Service number is 605-642-4622. For a Black Hills snowmobile map, call 605-584-3896. For tourism info, contact the Lead Chamber of Commerce at 605-584-1100.