ttt,
looking for some pics
looking for some pics
summer snowmobile project
- Thread starter xc_rider08
- Start date
S
Won't the front mount holes also be farther forward since it currently has a 121 skid (x-10 I assume)?
What full RMK skid are you referring to? The 99 RMK had a 136 x-10, then they had x-lite skids for a couple years and then edge suspensions?
According to JBShocks tech pages, the 136 x-10 front mounting holes are farther forward and the back mounting holes are farther back than the 121 x-10 mounting holes. The x-lite is supposedly a bolt in direct swap for the 136 x-10 (according to JBShocks tech pages). I just bought a 2002 RMK edge suspension on ebay and I need to find out if the mounting locations are the same as x-lite/136 x-10, and if they're different I need to find out where to locate them. The only mounting location info for the edge on JBShocks site is the 121 edge.
S
I'm also changing a 121 to a 144 this summer (xlt sp). Mine has x-12 though and I believe yours is a x-10. I originally considered using rail extensions, but then decided against it for a number of reasons.
The cost of extensions vs the cost of a used RMK skid. 121-144 extensions for x-10 at Tracks USA are $170 (plus shipping/handling), or $130 if you buy a new track at the same time. Tracks USA extensions also extend the hyfax. You can get cheaper extensions (still over $100) like SLP extensions but they don't extend the hyfax. Going from 121 to 144 is a long way to move the axle without extending the bottom of the rail and hyfax.
The torque arms are farther apart on 136/144 skids for a reason, it's more sound design. A short skid with extensions won't have the same geometry/dynamics as a 136/144 suspension. It will work, but how will it perform compared to a x-lite or edge RMK 144 suspension (or even a 136 x-10 for that matter)?
Your suspension is coupled. RMK suspensions (x-10/x-lite/edge) are not coupled, they have a pivot arm at the bottom of the rear torque arm that's kind of like the joint in a dog's hind leg. From everything I've read on coupled vs non coupled, I believe non coupled is preferable to coupled for deep powder/mountain riding. Personally, I would take a 136 x-10 without extensions over a 121 x-10 with 144 extensions.
Auctions for snowmobile stuff on ebay right now are going for really low prices (not many bidders). I got some pretty good deals on a couple of reverse kits (I've got a 2 sled summer project), and I just got great deals on a 144 RMK x-lite skid and a 136 RMK edge skid. Got the x-lite for $80 + $60 shipping and the edge for $140 + $60 shipping. I'll buy some used 144 rails for the edge skid and sell the 136 rails.
Good luck with the project, you'll be a ton happier with the longer track
:beer;
:beer;
X-10 mounting holes are the same in the front whether it be 121" or 136", just the rear is 4" back on center on the 136". Front arm is mounted lower in the tunnel also if the rear is mounted below the tunnel. And the Xtra-lite is mounted the same as the 136" Xtra-10. Good luck with it.
thanks for the info! i have a 99 rmk 136 skid coming with an extension... so i use the same front holes and drill the other one 4 inches back?
S
That appears to be correct. I just measured from the drive shaft to the front mounting bolt on my sks 136 x-10 and apparently MARV1 is correct and the specs on the JBShocks page that I sent you a link to are incorrect.
According to the info on JBShocks (links below) the front mounting bolts for the 136 x-10 are 9 13/16" back from the drive shaft, and the mounts for the 121 x-10 are 11 5/8" back from the drive shaft.
I measured my 136 x-10 and the mounts are 11 5/8" from the flat on the drive shaft just like the JBShocks specs show for the 121 x-10. I would measure yours just to make sure, but MARV1 seems to know his stuff and I'm not doubting his word/experience. I'm posting this in the thread instead of sending a PM in case anyone else is planning on swapping to a 136 x-10 and is looking at the specs on the JBShocks site.
http://www.jbshocks.com/x10mount.jpg
http://www.jbshocks.com/x10mount136.jpg
Like marv said above the holes also need to be under the tunnel like mountain sled mounts are. Once you get it all bolted up you will see why that sled was never designed to clear 2" paddles
good luck and its actually a really fun project!!!
W
sounds like a great idea for a project. Good luck!
im replacing the 9tooth drivers with 7 tooth... i have an 1.5" under it right now and no problems... so i dont think it will fit fine, or so i have been told
im replacing the 9tooth drivers with 7 tooth... i have an 1.5" under it right now and no problems... so i dont think it will fit fine, or so i have been told
Yeah It will clear with that just make the drop bracket Like we talked about and your golden
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