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Stator removal help

sleddude

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I'm having a little trouble keeping the engine from moving to get the bolt off the flywheel. Plus it has red loctite on the threads. I dont want to screw up my cases. Should I unbolt the case so its just the crank and flywheel and go from there?
 

heinracing

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do you have the motor out?

if not a long pry bar on the clutch works just make sure you dont scratch the clutches
 

Hardass

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I disagree never hold the clutch on one end and try to break a nut loose on the other end crank could twist out of fase, then you will really have some troubles. What sled are you working on?
 

sleddude

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engine is out

Working on my 900. I'm replacing the crank with the updated one. So the engine is out and primary is off.
 

94fordguy

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Working on my 900. I'm replacing the crank with the updated one. So the engine is out and primary is off.

100_2894.jpg

100_2928.jpg
 

rmk727

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they can be quite female , best way is to use an air impact,1/2 in drive and a metric socket you can hold the flywheel with your hand or a strap wrench don't use heat on the lock tite it should come off easy just takes time, as with the clutch never use the impact to put it on thou
 

AKSNOWRIDER

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use an impact on it..should be left hand threads and since you are replacing the crank you cant hurt it..
 
H
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imo once you get er stripped down send the bottom end to indy dan, can't go wrong, search the forum here for reports and to contact him, there is a good thread called "crank'n my 06 9" that is a good read also
 
E

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Little bit of heat and that locktite should release. Don't go crazy with it though.
 

diamonddave

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Wow, you're ahead of me...I better get busy. How'd the top end look? Are you going to replace your stator also?


Check the flywheel close. I've seen two 900 flywheels with the magnets coming off although both were 05's. The bonding agent wasn't very good and rumor has it that 06's were suppose to have a better bonding agent (this according to Owens in Yakima) but Mountainhorse said he hasn't heard about it.
 

94fordguy

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Wow, you're ahead of me...I better get busy. How'd the top end look? Are you going to replace your stator also?


Check the flywheel close. I've seen two 900 flywheels with the magnets coming off although both were 05's. The bonding agent wasn't very good and rumor has it that 06's were suppose to have a better bonding agent (this according to Owens in Yakima) but Mountainhorse said he hasn't heard about it.

The top end looked awesome upon dis-assembly, pistons were in very good shape with no signs of excessive heat, and the jugs looked good as new, all the honing marks were intact and absolutely no scoring... With 2,000 miles on the motor, it looked like it had 200 miles.... could have easily gone another 2 seasons without a problem. We were both in shock as to how good the internals looked, very impressed... I can only hope my old 800 looks half as good as his 900 does:eek::face-icon-small-hap

Not planning on replacing the stator, just gonna swap it onto the new updated crank.
 

sleddude

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The top end looked awesome upon dis-assembly, pistons were in very good shape with no signs of excessive heat, and the jugs looked good as new, all the honing marks were intact and absolutely no scoring... With 2,000 miles on the motor, it looked like it had 200 miles.... could have easily gone another 2 seasons without a problem. We were both in shock as to how good the internals looked, very impressed... I can only hope my old 800 looks half as good as his 900 does:eek::face-icon-small-hap

Not planning on replacing the stator, just gonna swap it onto the new updated crank.


I was amazed at how good it looks inside the engine. The engine compartment was a mess from the y pipe bolts being loose and the drain tube from the exhaust valves. My front motor mounts were getting pretty loose too. It will be nice to have the new updated crank and not be as worried about it breaking but wish I'd waited 2 more seasons.

Been using the Walmart 2 stroke oil also for 1400 miles. The exhaust valves get really carboned though.
 
X

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If you can't get it off by normal means and if you have acccess to some 1/8" steel plate and a torch or plasma cutter ( or are really patient with a cutoff wheel). Cut a piece of plate that looks like the shape of a big box end wrench. cutout a big hole for the center nut, and drill 3 small holes and bolt it to the puller holes in the flywheel. that will give you the leverage to break it loose and in the correct spot to not cause damage anywhere else.

This also works real well for pulling the flywheel if your using a harmonic dampener puller for that job instead of the pullers that have a large hex on them to hold it in place.
 

sleddude

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bought an impact gun

just put the impact gun to it and be done already!

I bought an impact gun and will hopefully get to it on Sat. We got to busy at work and its gonna have to wait.

That new crank is cool, can't wait to put the motor back together. That is after I take the other crank out.:):beer;
 
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