Silber Clutch Engagement

[Polaris900RMK]

I just put a new Silber on my 2019 800. The sled has 10 miles on it. So it’s new. Today when I was loading it, I noticed the clutch doesn’t engage until right at 5,000 rpm. Is that pretty normal for the clutch kit that comes with the turbo ?

 

[Reddragon800]

Silber uses too stiff of a primary spring. And depending on what weights they sent you, if there are not loaded right, they also make engagment to high. The spring that comes with the kit is an almond which is 165-327. Try the venom 150-310. You want your engagement down to 4300 RPM.

 

[Polaris900RMK]

Okay. I was thinking it was too stiff. Thank you for that response

 

[Totally Tully]

Clutching was off when I did my kit too. I'm using MDS turbo weights and their recommended spring set up. They are fully adjustable so you can dial them in for the exact rpm engagement that you need. Not too spendy either. Made in Ellensburg, WA. He has a great set up for testing his products in shop including a dyno, and in the field. You can talk to him personally for more details and he is very helpful and an avid sledder himself.

 

[HiWaYman92]

I went to the TRS setup and it’s awesome.


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[Polaris900RMK]

Sounds like I better make some changes. Thank you guys for the info

 

[HiWaYman92]

It will be well worth your money. I was amazed that it made the sled run cleaner and more crisp.


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[Polaris900RMK]

Thank you for the info guys. I really appreciate it

 

[sledhedXP]

If you want to make the Silber stuff work better without having to reshim and rebalance your primary (as many other turbo clutch setups do), contact Erik at Montana Adrenaline Motorsports. He can set you up with the proper weight combo and possibly a different helix depending on your elevation, dark green venom spring 140/330, 74 grams for 3 lbs boost at my elevation. He has had good success and you don't have to spend a small fortune reshimming / rebalancing the primary just to install the weights for the kit...

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

If you want to make the Silber stuff work better without having to reshim and rebalance your primary (as many other turbo clutch setups do), contact Erik at Montana Adrenaline Motorsports. He can set you up with the proper weight combo and possibly a different helix depending on your elevation, dark green venom spring 140/330, 74 grams for 3 lbs boost at my elevation. He has had good success and you don't have to spend a small fortune reshimming / rebalancing the primary just to install the weights for the kit...

Or just an indy specialty kit off his website.
Buy, install and done.

Put good notes on the order and run it.

 

[sledhedXP]

Or just an indy specialty kit off his website.
Buy, install and done.

Put good notes on the order and run it.

I heard you have to reshim as the indy specialty kit weights change your belt clearance? Most factory primary clutches have too much clearance already and these weights increase it a bit? If you don't then you won't get full advantage of the kit is my understanding.

 

[sledhedXP]

I heard you have to reshim as the indy specialty kit weights change your belt clearance? Most factory primary clutches have too much clearance already and these weights increase it a bit? If you don't then you won't get full advantage of the kit is my understanding.

Buy, install, done... Helix, spring, and set the weights you already have for your elevation...
I haven't run it yet but he sets up a lot of Silbers in our region and this works. And not a lot of $$ compared to a complete kit.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Buy, install, done... Helix, spring, and set the weights you already have for your elevation...
I haven't run it yet but he sets up a lot of Silbers in our region and this works. And not a lot of $$ compared to a complete kit.

Oops you quoted yourself.

Good way to grade a product (since you haven’t run it)

Maybe make your purchase justification argument after trying it. ?

Indydan’s weights are the main reason to run his kit. (Same exact belt to sheave clearance as oem 10 series weights)

The tucked under weight stalls the shift pre boost (adjustable) then has the mass to shift hard and put trackspeed to the snow.

Funny how dan has had the tucked under weight for 3 seasons now and boondocker is now copying the design and calling it revolutionary.

 

[Polaris900RMK]

Alright gentlemen, took my first ride with the turbo today. It def doesn’t engage until 5,000 RPM. When it does engage it slams in gear and snaps me back. There is def no smooth roll on. It is pretty lazy until 6,000 RPM and 1/8 of a throttle. Anything after 1/8 of a throttle and 6k it takes off and runs super hard. Just clutching issues?

 

[sledhedXP]

View attachment 363419

Oops you quoted yourself.

Good way to grade a product (since you haven’t run it)

Maybe make your purchase justification argument after trying it. ?

Indydan’s weights are the main reason to run his kit. (Same exact belt to sheave clearance as oem 10 series weights)

The tucked under weight stalls the shift pre boost (adjustable) then has the mass to shift hard and put trackspeed to the snow.

Funny how dan has had the tucked under weight for 3 seasons now and boondocker is now copying the design and calling it revolutionary.

Yeah, oops. quoted myself, but what I was told when I looked into it was you have to reshim (which then generally means rebalance) your stock primary to correctly run the indy specialties kit. If that is not correct then I stand corrected. (I just looked it up and their website says "To gain full performance potential your clutch will need to be re-shimmed for these weights") Which adds time and expense to running that kit above and beyond the kit expense itself, although it may well be the best thing to run, that is more time and more money, so depends on what the OP wants to do. Giving options here. Local Silber dealer has lots of happy customers with the clutching the way he sets them up is all I am saying, and no reshimming, no $390 kit, just the helix and recommended spring... Options are good, right?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Yeah, oops. quoted myself, but what I was told when I looked into it was you have to reshim (which then generally means rebalance) your stock primary to correctly run the indy specialties kit. If that is not correct then I stand corrected. (I just looked it up and their website says "To gain full performance potential your clutch will need to be re-shimmed for these weights") Which adds time and expense to running that kit above and beyond the kit expense itself, although it may well be the best thing to run, that is more time and more money, so depends on what the OP wants to do. Giving options here. Local Silber dealer has lots of happy customers with the clutching the way he sets them up is all I am saying, and no reshimming, no $390 kit, just the helix and recommended spring... Options are good, right?

I’m just saying you’re going to get the same gains with reshimming no matter what clutching you use.

the back weighted cam arms of indy specialty, or boondocker have been a huge evolution in turbo clutching.

after trying many different options there’s really no reason to spend any money on historically obsolete technology.

try both side by side and see the difference.

after buying a sled + turbo kit..........
I’m going to use the absolute best clutching possible for performance and belt life.

belts cost so much more than clutching.........

(My brother went from 40 mile belt life from “the local guy’s custom clutching” to indydan clutching and 400 mile belt life.

added 5-7 mph trackspeed while climbing.

niether me or him had any reshimming or balancing done..................

 

[powdersnobb]

I went to the TRS setup and it’s awesome.


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Yep. TRS FTW! Tony is a good guy and will help you out!

 

[sledhedXP]

I’m just saying you’re going to get the same gains with reshimming no matter what clutching you use.

the back weighted cam arms of indy specialty, or boondocker have been a huge evolution in turbo clutching.

after trying many different options there’s really no reason to spend any money on historically obsolete technology.

try both side by side and see the difference.

after buying a sled + turbo kit..........
I’m going to use the absolute best clutching possible for performance and belt life.

belts cost so much more than clutching.........

(My brother went from 40 mile belt life from “the local guy’s custom clutching” to indydan clutching and 400 mile belt life.

added 5-7 mph trackspeed while climbing.

niether me or him had any reshimming or balancing done..................

Good to know that the not doing the reshimming still yields good results. That is the kind of info that needs to get out there. There are so many used turbo kits and used turbo sleds out there that not everyone is investing 15K+ in the package any more (or riding them to their full capability), so more budget-friendly options can be more of a concern. Amazing how many used sleds with turbos there are on the market now (or used turbo kits)...

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Good to know that the not doing the reshimming still yields good results. That is the kind of info that needs to get out there. There are so many used turbo kits and used turbo sleds out there that not everyone is investing 15K+ in the package any more (or riding them to their full capability), so more budget-friendly options can be more of a concern. Amazing how many used sleds with turbos there are on the market now (or used turbo kits)...

Yeah both our sleds were used. Used kits also.

 

[TRS]

Good to know that the not doing the reshimming still yields good results.

Are you thinking that you don’t need to reshim?
You should check your belt to sheave measurement with any kit, even in stock form.
Polaris belt to sheave measurements, from the factory, have been 0-.120”.
You are leaving a lot of performance and belt life on the table by not checking and adjusting belt to sheave.
If you are at .120”, your fly weight has to make up that distance before it engages the belt. It’s like starting off in your pickup in third gear. Next you theoretically lost .120” worth of shift out. The centrifugal force of the weight can only shift out to the position where it hits its inherent neutral position.
If you want top performance you must adjust your belt to sheave to spec. Set one up with .020” and one with .120” and go test.