Should I hold off on mounting BDX Airbox until after break in and fuel controller?

[Frostbite]

I have been bolting on a few of the accessories I just got for my new 2009 M8 Sno Pro 153".

I added an AMP bar riser and gage cage last night.

Tonight it's the black nose cone/bumper, 2 cool side panels and goggle holder.

Tomorrow it's the Amp shift assist kit and the belt deflector but, I'm a bit nervous about installing the shift assist kit.

I have the BDX airbox sitting here on the bench but, my gut tells me to wait to install it untill after I break in the sled (it has zero miles) and I get a fuel controller installed.

The sled has a dealer installed SLP single pipe.

What do you guys think?

 

[XFIRE800]

sure wouldnt hurt anything to wait til its broke in, and i would definetly put on the fuel controller before the bdx black box

 

[BottomFeeder m7.]

ur fine. No need to even have the box..

 

[MUZBOMB]

Can you send me pics of the riser you put on trevormuzechka6@msn.com i am thinking of doing the same thing want to see what it looks like. Thanks

 

[mountain mafia]

I have been running the BDX airbox and an SLP pipe with no fuel controller for 600 miles. I do run a gallon of race gas per tank just to be safe though.

 

[Frostbite]

Like a dummy, I forgot to add that the sled has a dealer installed SLP pipe to the original post.

That was the reason I held off on the BDX airbox.

How does that change your recommendations?

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[XFIRE800]

I knew from your former posts that you had the SLP so thats why i said to have the box on, and its not like the extra power and weight loss is gonna make a difference in break in so might as well leave it off to be safe?

 

[BottomFeeder m7.]

yes then you need the box.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

get a few easy miles on it, there have been a few piston scuffs out there usually within break in. this way your not having to screw with fuel adjustment. who is your dealer.

 

[Frostbite]

My dealer is Idaho Rigging in St. Maries.

They installed the pipe and told me to use 87 octane fuel (not what SLP says).

I plan to take it as easy as I can for the first few miles. I'll try not to stay in one throttle position for very long at all. I'll be focusing on acceleration and deceleration to help seat the rings properly. There is enough oil in the gas tank (I'm told) to make the mixture 100/1 in the fuel tank for the first tank plus the injection oil.

Is there a way to avoid these "piston scuffs" or is it just, luck of the draw?

Yes, I put the stock air box back on the sled last night. I'll minimize my chances of problems until I get a fuel controller on the sled. I sent back the Pure Logic box. I plan on going with a Power Commander with its heads up display.

Thanks

 

[BigRed118]

Make sure that you do not stay between about 5800-6500rpm. I think that is where a lot of the scuffing is occuring. There is a bad lean spot from the factory if you stay there too long. The shift assist is easy. Make sure you have a compression tool and use a propane torch to heat up the torx screws. Mark the secondary so that it goes back together the same so it stays balanced.

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks for the great tips Big Red!

I will follow your advice.

What's this about the torx screws being so tight? I guess that's why you use the torch..... duh.

 

[BigRed118]

Blue loctite is what they use and these screws are not that big. Keeps you from having to drill out the helix bolts

 

[colorado logger]

Hey Frostbite be carefull with the torch I melted one of the rollers a little bit. If Ya want I break that sled freakin sled in for you.

 

[jdr]

My dealer is Idaho Rigging in St. Maries.

They installed the pipe and told me to use 87 octane fuel (not what SLP says).

I plan to take it as easy as I can for the first few miles. I'll try not to stay in one throttle position for very long at all. I'll be focusing on acceleration and deceleration to help seat the rings properly. There is enough oil in the gas tank (I'm told) to make the mixture 100/1 in the fuel tank for the first tank plus the injection oil.

Is there a way to avoid these "piston scuffs" or is it just, luck of the draw?

Yes, I put the stock air box back on the sled last night. I'll minimize my chances of problems until I get a fuel controller on the sled. I sent back the Pure Logic box. I plan on going with a Power Commander with its heads up display.

Thanks

frostbite i bought my sno pro m8 from idaho riggin also when i talked to jack he said that i did not need a fuel box for a for the slp pipe so i dont know if i will need one or not when i pipe it btw i traded my apex for the m8 i have about 300 miles on mine you are going to love that sled. where do you mostly ride at

 

[mrquick68]

i'd be double checking on running 87 with a pipe. doesn't sound right???

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I'd do what slp says, but if the det sensor does its job you should have to worry what octane you run. As for the scuffing I think its rare, and the dealer thinks it might be due to a tighter piston tolerance or lack of quality control, but no way to know for sure. my stock 09 m1000 was hitting 1260 on the egt at 6100 rpm and 1150 wot. they make them run on the edge just before the PV open. if you keep burping the throttle the temps stay down.