Rear Arm Adjustment?

[DVarmit]

I am still new to powder riding and I am making changes to my 06 Crossfire to see how they work on powder. So, please be patient with my newbie powder questions. Oh, it's a shorty 136 which is probably good to know.

I have made some adjustments to my springs and couplers. The ride is still somewhat stiff but a lot better than it was. I was looking at the rear arms and noticed that I can bring them forward on the rails for a softer ride. I believe that this would reduce my travel some which I am not sure how that would effect things. So the question is would moving the rear arm forward help or hurt the sled from getting up on top in the powder? I couldn't find anywhere that gave me information as to how this effects the angle of attack if it even does.

I have my front arm spring about as loose as I can comfortably get it.. The front springs are equally as loose. The couplers are on III and the spring adjusters are in the middle setting. I don't have the bite in the corners that I used to have for trail riding but that is fine with me. I only run trails to get back to the powder or the occasional trail run at Big Lake etc..

Is moving the rear arm going to make any difference? Any other suggestions that would help get this thing up on top better?

 

[Dam Dave]

Take the couplers and put them on a shelf in the garage

 

[DVarmit]

Take the couplers and put them on a shelf in the garage

I have read posts were guys have taken them out of the Crossfires. I may give that a whirl. The worst case I put them back in the best I really get the front end up quick.

 

[1Mike900]

DV I moved my 1M 900 rear scissor forward 1 inch on the rails, It softened up the ride somewhat to the point it was collapsing while sitting still. I made new timing rods for the shock and made matters worse on the rebound. I moved it back to the original holes and everything is fine now, Stiffened up the rear which i need as it wanted to go over backwards before. The shock needs revalved which I feel will solve all the problems. Moving forward raises the back slightly, But weekens the shocks resistance.

Mike

 

[DVarmit]

DV I moved my 1M 900 rear scissor forward 1 inch on the rails, It softened up the ride somewhat to the point it was collapsing while sitting still. I made new timing rods for the shock and made matters worse on the rebound. I moved it back to the original holes and everything is fine now, Stiffened up the rear which i need as it wanted to go over backwards before. The shock needs revalved which I feel will solve all the problems. Moving forward raises the back slightly, But weekens the shocks resistance.

Mike

I read about the softening up of the rear when you move them forward like that. Your info is what I was really looking for on moving it forward. I think I will just keep it where it is. I am going to see what happens with the coupler set as far back as it goes. Then take the couplers out and see how much difference that makes. I appreciate the feedback!

 

[theultrarider]

I can't say for sure on yet cat Doug, but on the Polaris xtra 10's I used to have with couplers in them, we would generally run them in the postion furthest away from the arm allowing the most rotaion. Some guys would pullt them all the way out and I have done so as well, but they become wheelie monsters then. Some guys love that, but it is impossible to climb anything like that. Loosen them up and try that. I would also leave the arm mounted on the rail where it is. It will get way too soft moving it forward. Click your spring back down on the lowest setting first now that your shocks are new again.

 

[DVarmit]

I searched a couple of posts on another forum about removing the couplers on the Crossfires and they said the same thing about uncontrolled front end lift. Mostly with going up hill were the front end comes up going up.. I am going to set them back as far as I can get them and see what happens. Which poses an interesting question. If they are so important why do the newer Crossfires and M-Series sleds not have them at all?

If I remove the couplers I could bring some weight to the front by adjusting the front arm up a little tighter or should I loosen the front arm?

I'll keep posting back once I get a chance to make the changes and test them out. The wife got a new puppy and I am puppy sitting this weekend.. Blue bird day and I am on the couch..

I am catching on to the suspension but still need some help.

 

[theultrarider]

Doug, Where is the limiter strap set at on the front of your skid? I'll bet it is pulled tight for the country you bought it in. Let it out, lossen it up. This will also "lift" your front end when you accelerate and help out in deep snow. As you get your sled more and more set up for the mountians and powder, you are going to have to stay off the throttle more and more in corners on a trail. You can still come into them hard and hold one, but if you get on throttle too much, too early, you will lift the weight off the ski's and push. It is all a trade off... I can deal with pushing in a corner, just don't pinit coming out until you are ready to go straight. Move your blocks back and let the strap out. The blocks being back father are going to cause it to ride softer also. When the arm hits the blocks, the two shocks are now tied together and works almost as one so the spring rate from the front shock is being applied to the rear as well as the valving effect of the front shock. When uncoupled, they are independant. Typically with the newer sleds, the trail sleds are couple, and the mountian sleds are not. Pulling the couplers completely out of a coupled suspension is alot like removing a swaybar. You will need to tighten up the springs since it is now working on it's own, or it will be way too soft. And/or vavle the rear shock stiffer. I think you will like it set in the rear most setting with your shocks how they are.

 

[DVarmit]

Doug, Where is the limiter strap set at on the front of your skid? I'll bet it is pulled tight for the country you bought it in. Let it out, lossen it up.

Believe it or not they are loose. In fact, there is about an 1" or so of play in them right now.

 

[DVarmit]

I forgot I had to tighten the track after having the skid out.. Whoops now they are tight as a drum I will look at letting them out a little.

So my next question for anyone what is the general rule for how loose the limiter straps should be?

 

[theultrarider]

They will generally always be tight when sitting flat on the ground no matter where you adjust to them to. It is only when you collapse the front arm that they will be slack. Not sure you they are on you cat. Do you have a threaded bolt that lets them in and out, or is there multiple holes drilled in the strap where it wraps around the upper shaft and bolts together to itself? In either case, let it way out.