5
Do they make a power value delete kit for a 2004 king cat. Also what is this suppose to help.
Power Value delete kit
- Thread starter 570MC
- Start date
9
i was told not to do it.bog on low end.
5
i have a friend who just did it to his M1000 so i was going to see if it helped and if i should do it. Does it increase your power any. I dont need more power i just want more
S
You'll have to bump the engagement on your primary significantly to overcome the low end bog as removing the power valves will decrease the low end but you'll see the benefit on top.
Removing the valves from any sled will do 2 thing:
1. Decrease you low-end power and torque - the port is simply too big to perform on the bottom. With the EFI sleds, there is a map for each valve position. Eliminating the valve will give you a larger port with the same fuel as if it was smaller. Not a good situation.
2. On the top end it will do nothing! Regardless of the various dyno sheets and claims, when the port is open with the valves or the valves are gone, the port is still only open so far. In fact, unless there is some spacer to fill the space in the cylinder, the exhaust will swirl upo the cavity, causing turbulance, disrupting the proper exit of the exhaust gas, and cause a decrease in power.
Bottom line, if your sled has exhaust valves, they were put there for your benifit: good low end power and high end power.
DTR
I disagree to an extent, I had a set on my last sled (I'd have them in my new sled probably if I hadn't let the insurance company take the servo electronics unit!)
They cause a small bog on the bottom, I never bothered to spend the time tuning it out, it didn't bug me much. I do agree that the top end is no different (not that I noticed anyhow) but the mid is a noticeable improvement that I feel makes it worth the small bog. the comment about bumping engagement gives me some thought, I might have to try this on my 09 (if I can remember to call BDX and order another box thing)
Between not having to EVER deal with valve adjustment again, the mid range gain, and the weight loss I think it's worth it.
I think the supreme valves are probably the best system out there, but they're 3 times as much as the bdx setup.
They cause a small bog on the bottom, I never bothered to spend the time tuning it out, it didn't bug me much. I do agree that the top end is no different (not that I noticed anyhow) but the mid is a noticeable improvement that I feel makes it worth the small bog. the comment about bumping engagement gives me some thought, I might have to try this on my 09 (if I can remember to call BDX and order another box thing)
Between not having to EVER deal with valve adjustment again, the mid range gain, and the weight loss I think it's worth it.
I think the supreme valves are probably the best system out there, but they're 3 times as much as the bdx setup.
S
I'm not claiming to be an authority on this but speaking from my experience this is what I found. I have a D&D 720 open mod sno x race engine w/o power valves. I have run this sled against others (ZR chassis snox sleds) with the exact same motor but with power valves. the power valved sleds come out of the hole with less track spin because they can afford a lower engagement because of the increased torque of the powervalves, however once my non power valve sled hooks up it pulls away. Since D&D offered both a P/V and NON P/V version of this motor, my guess is there something to this. Perhaps not having the power valve cavity machined in the cylinder allows for more radical porting?
Like I said I'm not an expert, but there is something to it.
Personally I love the simplicity of the motor without power valves, EFI, or oil pump. Gives me peace of mind when I'm out in the sticks knowing its 3 less potential failure points to the motor.
